Octane Electrical clusterf@!*, help. (RESOLVED)

Here's the tale:
went for a ride, usual easy warm up near boat launch as i was ridding alone, some slalom some playing making sure all is running well, then after 15 minutes i open her up to 3/4 throttle or so let her plane and ride..all is great, turn around head back @ W.O.T purring along like a kitten.. then all goes dead and in the lake i go.
no power to start button and not about to open the hood in the middle of choppy mountain lake. I'm warm got a wetsuit and lots of daylight so the
lenghty swim to shore while pushing the ski begins and followed by walk to boat launch.

15amp breaker popped and bilge fuse blown..screw it get her home and have a stiff drink.

change fuse reset breaker cranks over but no spark, fresh battery full charge 14.2v resting 12.9 cranking so it ain't the battery.
by-pass the L/R unit connect CDI directly to live wire still no spark.

start doing all other maintenance manual procedure checking resistance in coils wires etc etc.

here's the completely screwed up part, the yellow wire coming IN from stator is actually showing me its live with 13.89volts?? WTF?

according the the wiring diagram this is the wire that sends rpm info to l/r unit which then sends power to CDI/bilge pump.
tracing back through the diagram its the yellow wire that comes from the "trigger coils" half effect sensors. and should only send a mild signal when the flywheel passes the magnet.

If this wire is giving out 13.9V I'm guessing this means something came lose in the stator and a major short circuit is going on.??

Any Octane electrical wizards care to chime in?

thanks in advance
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I suppose question 2 would be, if the voltage regulator took in 14.v where its not suppose to is it likely blown and needing replacement as well? hope the CDI isnt cooked from the short, might need to send that out to watcon if they still do that.
The more I dig the more confused I'm getting. the manual and yellow wire from stator which connects to yellow wire from L/R unit is labelled tachometer ie voltage regulator senses engine is running.
However, the wiring diagram shows the yellow wire coming from the battery charge coil and is located "dowstream" of the live red/purple wire.

I keep coming back to not knowing why there's voltage from the stator into the Ebox when the engine isnt running?? am I missing something here?
it does seem like the only likely culprit capable of blowing the 15amp fuse.

looks like its time to drain the fuel tank yank her out and tear into the flywheel...bummer that sure cuts into ridding time.
verdict so far;
seems the LR unit is screwed, its showing bat voltage from both the yellow and orange wires at all times.
CDI has no voltage from Brown wire when cranking over, Should be putting out 9volts. guessing its shot as well.

sure hope I dont need a Stator as well,so far all bench test and Ohms are as per manual.


wannabe backflipper
gold coast
Its a bit of work to put a zeeltronic in there due to it not having a pick up
If there was a flywheel with a lump and on it you would be able to do it easy
Dont want to start trying tearing out and rebuilding mix bag of ignition parts or machining flywheels to "make it work". I want her back in the water the quickest easiest way specially given I do shift work. want to avoid my limited time at home to be wrenching instead of riding.
Seems pretty certain the LR unit is toast since its putting out bat volt on the yellow rpm pickup wire . new one on order.
Everywhere I read in polaris ignition the cdi brown wire should be putting out 9v during cranking/running to power hall effect sensors and get spark...i got nothing there so that seems toast as well. no time to tear into the flywheel as I leave again for work.
order the parts do more reading, install upon return and hope the trouble are solved without a stator change.

I'd rather see a connecting rod sticking out the cylinder than chase electrical gremlins ! Fricken hate elcetrical stuff...always have.


Sionis Industries
Its a bit of work to put a zeeltronic in there due to it not having a pick up
If there was a flywheel with a lump and on it you would be able to do it easy

What about using a msd total loss setup for the 777 octane motor? The msd flywheel with dual magnets and pickups? Could you ditch the msd brain and go with a zeel? When I reached out to Borut over a year ago.. there was no definitive answer if it would work and he said not at this time was there a unit compatible.


Site Supporter
Call Max Bush at Crank It Up Garage, 2189632900. You will not find a more knowledgeable Polaris Octane ignition mechanic. He has a huge collection of skis and new and used parts. Super nice guy also. He has straitened out ignition issues on a couple of my Octanes. He also outfitted the EME 1000 for sale on the X with a brand new complete E box with a very aggressive curve.
update for information sake.

LR unit crapped out, specifically regulator portion. This allowed the ski to run fine at lower throttle but once WOT was maintained it created an over voltage situation blew the fuses and evidently fried the CDI .

parts in transit while all other wires and connections are triple checked for bad grounds, breaks etc. should be a "plug and play" situation.

It's just money right? ;-)
Sure Did !!
Haven't talked to anyone else since you gave me his contact. All parts from him, after all his help there's nobody else I'd rather give my business to.
given we're on separate ends of different countries It's been a surprisingly fast process, thanks in part to fed ex ;-)
New CDI coming with a far more aggressive curve, cant wait to see how she pulls now.
Thank you again so much, should our paths ever cross the drinks are on me !
Happy to report all is well,better than well actually.
Thanks to the recommend from iQRTurbo my issue was quickly assessed resolved and back on the water. international mail was the slow link in the chain hence waiting 3 weeks to ride again.
Received new LR module and a CDI which was re-curved far more aggressively than stock.
All parts plugged right in with only a minor hassle of lengthening the LR module wires to reach the connections.
Needed to advance the timing a fair bit to match the new CDI curve. 18-28-18 vs stock 18-20
I gotta say, God Damn does the thing pull hard compared to stock.
Honesty, it feels like this is how the boat should run right from the showroom floor.

I cant say enough about Max at Crank it up garage!! This man went so far beyond basic customer service its surreal.He even got in touch with me when he received a parcel pick up confirmation email, just to make sure everything went well and my boat was working as it should !!
What other business has EVER done that? If the octane ever needs anything else that`ll be the first shop I call.

Thanks to all for the help,input and suggestions.

Happy riding!!
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