Oem 144 vs. oem 155

cookn

Kamikaze
Location
where you live
image.jpg image.jpg Post stuff about your pump setups here if its not too much of a secret. We were just talking again today. A few guys pulled their 155 pump setups out that they were using stock length superjet shafts in and realized they are not getting full spline engagement. Her is the picture comparison, I was getting just under 3/8" shorter in the 155 pump. People have run them this way for multiple seasons with no issues but as it has been stated that add in various other differences like bulkhead placement in aftermarket hulls and you may end up with even less. I am going to be running this pump with a skat 7-15 swirl and a 90mm reduction nozzle bore. I may end up bending down the trailing edge a bit if 15 is too much. I know people have had success with this setup with an7/12 regular hub and have seen as low as 7/10. I also know guys running 7/15-9/15 on under 800cc but both have total loss which I do not. The motor setup is a fully ported 718 with b pipe with enhancer. I think the key to making the 155 setup work with the smaller displacement engines is the nozzle bore. I am coming from a oem 144 with a 10-18 regular hub. I also ran the solas 144 with a 10/16 and stubby cone with reduction at 85mm. It worked well but the performance over the oem was not worth the extra weight of the solas in my opinion. I am sure there are differences of opinions here but am I just posting about what I am trying. I won't get to try the 155 setup likely until the spring.
 

D-Roc

I forgot!
So that is about 9.5 mm difference that I would be missing for engagement. I estimated that 14mm would give me maximum engagement. Thanks for measuring this Cookn. I could use a +10mm driveshaft to get me back to spec.


Sent from Canada
 

Proformance1

Liquid Insanity
Site Supporter
Vendor Account
Location
New York Crew
All info sounds about correct. The hub size, bore sizes and cone sizes are the key to tuning the 155, or any pump forthat matter. Whats the hub diameter on a stocker? Aftermarket is 75mm

FYI replace those orings in the stock pump lol its fresh water!!
 
Location
Uk
Great post. I'm looking into fitting one and its nice to see them side by side.

Any chance you could take a pic looking straight down and measure the difference in the body size please?

I will be fitting to a 2011 XFS so not sure if it will be to wide for steering cable etc.

Thanks
 

cookn

Kamikaze
Location
where you live
yea my mid shaft in my other ski def needs some orings lol. I will get the width measurement, I pretty sure most have to clearance the reduction nozzle a bit for steering cable. I am also going to be running just a stock style stubby cone, and will make a few that are a little bit longer so I can use that to tune pump load. I forgot to mention that I am just going to be running the big hub prop with no pump stuffer. The two setups I know of closely both use a big hub in the pump so we will see what the difference is there.
 

cookn

Kamikaze
Location
where you live
Great post. I'm looking into fitting one and its nice to see them side by side.

Any chance you could take a pic looking straight down and measure the difference in the body size please?

I will be fitting to a 2011 XFS so not sure if it will be to wide for steering cable etc.

Thanks

The 155 is slight wider in the body it was hard to get a good measurement but prolly close to the 10mm bigger that the actual pump is. I measure the widest part as well which on mine is the cooling fittings and I'm just under an inch wider, I test fit in my pump tunnel and it fits but its gonna be tight with the ride plate. I think some people have had to do some grinding on that as well
 

cookn

Kamikaze
Location
where you live
It is also important that the intake track supports the flow of the 155. A stock superjet intake should be widened and obviously the pump shoe as well
 

cookn

Kamikaze
Location
where you live
The skis I have ridden with 155 are a vast improvement over 144 but those setups are slightly more power also running big hub stator sections, opposed to the oem
 

JetManiac

Stoked
Site Supporter
Vendor Account
Location
orlando
The wear ring for the 155 pump is wider which makes the pump stator farther back. That is why you need a longer driveshaft to keep the spline overlap the same.

Here are some comparison pics of 144 and 155 pumps that should help. The 155 wear ring is longer, but the mounting ears on the 155 reduction nozzle were moved forward so that the overall bolt spacing is the same even though the 155 overall pump is longer.

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/oem-155-pump-talk.157281/
 
Last edited:

cookn

Kamikaze
Location
where you live
We have found the mid shaft mod is far more reliable and easy to do then adding material to the drive shaft. There is tons of threads on the mid shaft so that the coupler can then be spaced forward on the midshaft with washers or the rrp spacer rings
 
Top Bottom