Peen them like the factory does. Don't just use loctite.
OEM 760 44 carb throttle valves
- Thread starter Roseand
- Start date
There are two different "green" loctites, one is "wicking" which is threadlocker that you can apply after a fastener is assembled, (loctite 290). Loctite rates it at a lower strength than even the blue "medium strength" stuff.
The other is "retaining compound", it's usually used for things like retaining bearings in bores that are not as tight as they should be. It is FEROCIOUS stuff.
Any idea which of those two you are referring to? Neither really makes sense to me.
Also to op, make sure you replace the throttle shaft bushings while your at it, not just the rubber end seals. Sometimes the bushings fall right out, others you have to painstakingly dig them out.
Edit:. Forgot to mention, a dual carb brace such as the one from jetmaniac makes this whole process way easier, highly recommended
Edit:. Forgot to mention, a dual carb brace such as the one from jetmaniac makes this whole process way easier, highly recommended
Last edited:
You don't have to remove throttle shaft to replace seals/bushings right?
If not it sounds like I might as well just leave my throttle plates as is even though they've got a little slop..
Unless someone can give more info about places for 64x carbs...
If not it sounds like I might as well just leave my throttle plates as is even though they've got a little slop..
Unless someone can give more info about places for 64x carbs...
The shafts gotta come out to replace bushings. It's not terribly difficult usually the hardest part is getting the butterfly screws out.
Have done this twice on my novis. Green loctite works, I had a hell of a time getting the screws out the second time. Actually had to use a small soldering torch to help loosen them up, don't do this unless your carbs are bone dry
Another tip, set your carbs on a thick padded mat when your loosening the butterfly screws. 1" underpadding etc is perfect. This way your can lean your weight into it while loosening them
(OEM carbs, you may have to machine the butterfly screws out)
Have done this twice on my novis. Green loctite works, I had a hell of a time getting the screws out the second time. Actually had to use a small soldering torch to help loosen them up, don't do this unless your carbs are bone dry
Another tip, set your carbs on a thick padded mat when your loosening the butterfly screws. 1" underpadding etc is perfect. This way your can lean your weight into it while loosening them
(OEM carbs, you may have to machine the butterfly screws out)
Last edited:
So is anyone able to verify if 64x plates are available or what happens if you put standard plates on?
And also is that grime coming from the throttle shafts a sign of leaky seals, or have something to do with the leaking reeds I was dealing with causing fuel/oil to be blown back up the carb maybe?? Or both.
The way it sounding I might as well deal with the leaky mess and slight side to side shaft play until i decide to go to new carbs.
And also is that grime coming from the throttle shafts a sign of leaky seals, or have something to do with the leaking reeds I was dealing with causing fuel/oil to be blown back up the carb maybe?? Or both.
The way it sounding I might as well deal with the leaky mess and slight side to side shaft play until i decide to go to new carbs.
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
- Location
- Riverside, CA
On stock throttles the threads on the screws have been smashed (compressed)
to prevent them from falling out.
Before you try to remove the screws, cut the exposed threads down to the throttle
shaft with a porting tool or dremel.
Smash or compress the threads with a pair of needle nose vice grips. Or I used to
use a Snap_On Duck-bill pliers.
You will end up with an incurable low end hesitation off of idle.
If the throttle blades are worn near each end of the throttle shaft, the throttle blade will not
just slide out. It will be a difficult disassembly.
Bill M.
I think that is just the std 44 shaft replacement kit same as JM and others stock.
Yikes! Mine are very lightly deformed.
But it sounds like unless I can find new replacement 160 plates it's a bit of a risk trying to salvage these ones.
All because of leaky seals. Sounds like I'm just gonna let these throttle seals leak if it won't hurt anything...?
You could salvage those plates, straighten out the deformations and file down rough edges. Yes you might not have 100% ideal tolerances in that area at least it wouldn't have the angle mismatch (and leaky seals/bad bushings). For most people id say just leave it alone or get new carbs, if youre a little more patient and can use some finesse then its possible to make what you have work better
Last edited:
If the plates come out not too damage, that's a possibility yeah.
I have even used a tiny hammer and screw driver to straighten the bad edges before removal. Just be real careful to not mess up the carb body.
- Location
- Riverside, CA
On the 44bn damaged throttle plates were easy to remove because the throttle shaft
was cut so the throttle plate laid on top of the of 1/2 of the shaft. On the SBN series,
the throttle blade slides through the throttle shaft. So when the throttle blade is flattened
on each side (of the throttle shaft), there isn't any room for the blade to slide out. It was
mentioned earlier that the damaged area needs to be filed flat before the blade will
slide out.
Filing the throttle blade is awkward, or use a porting tool (but you may accidentally grind
the carb bore too).
Yamaha intake manifolds are full of vacuum leaks. I have been amazed at just how poorly
they were machined. Your time may be better spent flat sanding all the pieces of the intake,
including the carb bases, and replacing the gaskets.
Many people seem to believe that Yamaha's have a pop-off that is to high. But Yamaha's
start easy and run as expected when all the intake leaks are repaired.
Bill M.
was cut so the throttle plate laid on top of the of 1/2 of the shaft. On the SBN series,
the throttle blade slides through the throttle shaft. So when the throttle blade is flattened
on each side (of the throttle shaft), there isn't any room for the blade to slide out. It was
mentioned earlier that the damaged area needs to be filed flat before the blade will
slide out.
Filing the throttle blade is awkward, or use a porting tool (but you may accidentally grind
the carb bore too).
Yamaha intake manifolds are full of vacuum leaks. I have been amazed at just how poorly
they were machined. Your time may be better spent flat sanding all the pieces of the intake,
including the carb bases, and replacing the gaskets.
Many people seem to believe that Yamaha's have a pop-off that is to high. But Yamaha's
start easy and run as expected when all the intake leaks are repaired.
Bill M.