Blaster OEM Blaster Waterbox RIvets Popping

[Blastah'- FiveOh]

New to blasters, picked up a '93 with that big Coffman Rocket exhaust hooked to OEM waterbox. Per Coffman instructions, using only the large strap to secure the water box.

Problem: Three of the four rivets holding the exhaust inlet (the pipe side) keep breaking. I've riveted them back with rivets of the same size and within a little while they fail and then the fumes leak into the engine compartment. As of this moment I drilled a half dozen new holes w/rivets in line with the existing rivets and hope the added rigidity will solve the problem. Have yet to ride it though.

Has anyone else had the same problem? If so has there been long lasting solution using the OEM or should I just expect to get an aluminum unit lined up.

 

[txsuperjetfreak96]

id say aluminum, or u could try to rivet theme again and put a layer of fiberglass useing epoxy resin

 

[TOBTEK]

If you want to replace the Waterbox, I have one that is "as new". If your interested shoot me a PM. Thanks

 

[ajmps1]

just get the stock 760 pill box and relocate it to under the foot bed on either side. i did the right cause i have a red pipe and it flowed that way. theres a great thread somewhere that makes it brainlessly easy and you get a better sound for you as the rider and behind you. and theyre cheap, 50 bucks shipped

 

[Blastah'- FiveOh]

This sounds promising with the 760. Question: Is the 760 "pill box" an OEM yamaha boat part and if so which boat? What additional parts would be necessary? Sounds like I'd be re-routing the exhaust throught the hull on the right side.

 

[txsuperjetfreak96]

that would b off a gp760

 

[TOBTEK]

I have a WB2 box I'd sell for 60.00 shipped in the lower 48 states as well. AND a flawless B1 box available.

 

[ajmps1]

theres a really good wright up on step by step process, i would highly recomend it and it cleans the engine compartment up as well as allows you to remove the motor or flywheel with out removing the gas tank:bad3:

 

[ajmps1]

http://www.pwctoday.com/f101/701-raider-waterbox-mod-257856.html here it is

 

[Blastah'- FiveOh]

Thanks for all the advice guys, I like the idea of moving the noise to the rear with the w/b. Need to sign up at PWC Today and look at the article & pics. Does anyone know if a w/b off a 98 WR 800 GP ltd. is similar to the GP760 w/b? I have the 98 WR and can pull it out to set up the hose/plumbing on the Blaster so it's ready to go when the 760 w/b arrives.

 

[ajmps1]

does it look similar? i know that there are mesurments in the post too, dont know without reading the thread again but if they are the same numbers wise and look the same im sure you could kinda use it to mock up. i used the 45degree aluminum pipe from the broken waterbox in place of the exhaust tubeing, works well, doesnt rust and i did it with the stock hose cut just right and that peice of alum. that i cut out of the box and cleaned up(carfully cut the bracket off it) you will be pleased with this mod i promise

 

[CJ407]

I used a seadon't box and cut the baffel out..works and sounds great

 

[TOBTEK]

Ive done the rear box on several Blasters now. Not a hard job. Removing the foam in the back SUCKS! Get a drywall handsaw from HomeDepot and an electric carving knive is even better!
Some don't know, but the OEM WB box made more power then all the AM Alum boxes. This rear Alum box from the 701 Waveraider is the ONLY box you will feel a power increase. I've been making a one piece Alum exhause tube...from the factory mod pipe back to the bulk head...Super Sano!

 

[Blastah'- FiveOh]

Thanks to all of you for the advice. After searching OEM parts finders to cross reference the waterboxes of the various ski's I'm getting a box from a '97 XL 760 along with the connecting hoses.

Plan on mocking up the plumbing possibilities to also include the use of a B pipe that I picked up but have yet to install, test and compare against the Coffman Rocket pipe.

I have an overall question about the motor performance though.

Here are the particulars: 1993

1) Stock 701, Dual 44’s w/Prok, Stock Head 155 psi, Coffman Rocket Pipe, OEM Waterbox, Stock CDI.

a) Recently Rebuilt Carbs with new gaskets/fuel pump.
b) Pop – Off: Unknown
c) Jets: Hi 120 Low 45 (doing this from memory, could be wrong)
d) Wide Open Throttle chop had dry brown insulator tips.

2) Pump has a quarter size chunk taken out of one of the veins.

3) Prop is a Skat, engraved is "2 - 7", assume it to be 12-17. Prop blade trailing edges are distorted, not major but they aren’t clean.

4) Pump shoe is broken. No grate. Stock ride plate. (new shoe and grate coming)


Performance:

Acceleration from idle is nice and linear, no hiccups and at ¾ throttle it sounds like its full out (don’t know to RPMs…yet) But when opened to full throttle, the motor sound wavers like a fast “wah-wah-wah-wah”.

There is no apparent increase in RPM and definitely no increase in top speed from ¾ throttle to full and I feel that the top speed is not where it should be given the bolt-on mods.

Anyone?