Super Jet OEM Temp Sensor Wire Harness, Bilge Pump Power Supply Conversion

yamabro

GP Performance / Patterson Powersports
Location
Dickson, Tn.
Part 2 to the "Free, Trim Cable Thru Hull Seal"
http://x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/free-trim-cable-thru-hull-seal.167997/

Utilizing the temp sensor wiring harness to supply power to your single or dual bilge pumps.

NOTE:
Make sure to disconnect battery before doing this conversion

BENEFITS:
-
Keeps the E-box sealed to OEM spec so the internals of the E-box does not get water intrusion
-You NO longer have to fool around with separate eyelet connectors when connecting or disconnecting the battery. Therefore keeping a better and dedicated electrical connection for the + Positive, and -Negative cables/lugs coming off of the battery.

You will need:

  1. OEM Yamaha temp sensor wiring harness
  2. Small piece of Red wire @ 5" (no less), *to make "Y" in pic
  3. (1) Male bullet connector and (2) Female bullet connectors, *to make "Y" in pic

image.jpg

1. Cut the red wire in half and connect the bullet connectors to make the "Y" jumper as pictured.

image.jpg


  1. Open up the E-box and disconnect the +Pos bullet connector coming off of the +Pos battery cable (connected to the start relay)image.jpg

  1. Connect the "Y" jumper to the +Pos battery cable end
  2. Then reconnect the +Pos red wire to the "Y" jumper (that provides power to your electronics)
  3. Connect the pink wire to the other end of the "Y" jumper
  4. Connect -Neg black wire back to its original OEM bullet connectorimage.jpg
Reinstall the E-box.
Connect the Pink (+Pos) and Black (-Neg) in line with your switch and bilge pumps with what connectors you choose.

 
Sorry to revive this old thread but where did you get your OEM style bullet connectors? I can’t seem to find them. I used this method on my friends ski and it worked perfectly.
 

bored&stroked

Urban redneck
Location
AZ
This is an excellent idea, this thread needed to be revived! But seriously lets talk about how clean that ebox is, its so nice.
 

yamabro

GP Performance / Patterson Powersports
Location
Dickson, Tn.
I get those Bullet connectors and insulators from Japan. I made a good connection when I was stationed there.
And they are very cheap $$$ ( and I don't mean in quality).
 

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
It's a tight fit to get the fuse in the ebox but it's a more durable installation if you can manage it.

I fuse all my bilge kits but there is an argument made that bilge pumps are an emergency item and a fuse actually reduces the reliability. In the real world, emergency fire pumps are wired to run to absolute failure, literally melt the switchgear off the wall and keep running.
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
It seems like a weatherpack fuse holder outside of the e-box would be the best solution for an inline fuse that is accessible without taking the ebox apart, these even have a mounting tab if you want to secure it to a bolt somewhere , also you can buy them either unassembled or with lead wires already installed.

Some people might think this is a PITA way to do it but I use automatic pumps so I just plug in the fuse and go ride, when I am done I take the fuse out, no switch to go out this way, simple and easy.

One more option I have used recently on several things is an LR 23 Polaris voltage regulator, they call it a voltage regulator but what it is actually is an AC voltage sensing switch, it senses voltage from the charging coils and turns the switch on, it takes maybe a couple of seconds to cut on , it is what Polaris used on their accessory bilge pump kits for the sitdown watercraft.

It's a simple four wire setup , red is power in , yellow is AC power sensing wire , orange is power out on factory regulators ,on the one in the pic Yellow with red tracer is power out to whatever you want to run and ground wire goes to the aluminum buss bar part of the switch, some of the aftermarket regulators do have a black ground wire instead of grounding at the buss bar.

That third pic is of a LR23 mounted inside of a Seadoo RFI electrical box, it turns on an electric barrel valve on the rotary valve oil feed line because the inner crank seals were toast thus making the ski usable and ridable again , the exhaust runs down the right side of the ski on a RFI so there is no way to put a manual cutoff valve in there, anyway this is a more elegant solution.


 

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Last edited:
I don’t fuse my bilge pump 20+ years of riding , never a issue
Jason
Statistically, your luck is about to run out after 20 years...

Seen meltdowns and one fire, on other random People's skis. This usually happens when the Bilge Pump Impeller gets stuck/locked-up with debris, then the Bilge Electric Motor overheats, wires melt, and sometimes it catches on fire damaging other Components on the Ski.

Maybe you have a good maintenance program for your Ski. But an inline Fuse is such cheap and good protection because the melt-downs/fires happen so fast...
 

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
Again? I don’t get saucy a fraction as much as you do. Just tired of getting quoted for an unsolicited opinion that adds nothing to the thread. You guys don’t have to weigh in on every topic.
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
Then clearly I am the problem and will be stepping back from the forum for awhile.
Try some frosted flakes , I hear thereeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee Greatttttttttttttttttttttttttttt !
Btw I already stepped back , for about ten years, if it's your turn I am ok with that.
 
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