Super Jet Ordered a Factory B-Limited Pipe for MY SUPER JET!! Looking for Advise!

[600h.o.]

After Many Years of riding my stock 2006 Superjet (w/aftermarket impeller, ride plate, and intake grate) , I finally decided to Purchase a Factory B-Limited Pipe kit. I have Two Main questions!??

#1--- If I folllow the recomended Jetting and carb settings as per Factory B-Pipes Instruction sheet, How well will It Run?
(I am really hoping it will be a set and forget it deal...)

#2--- Do I need to purchase the aftermarket flame arrestors they recommend also?

I have no engine or ignition mods at this time and have non planned for the future. Just want to keep it as reliable as possible.
I Ride at 700-1100 feet above sea level.

 

[stagesrt4]

keep in mind your elevation...


from what ive heard the stock super jet arrestors flow pretty well

 

[600h.o.]

My elevation is more or less identical to the elevation stated in factory pipes setup. The pipe is supposed to be here the middle of next week, I am just trying to gather as much info as I can before I start the install and setup. Thanks

 

[Matt_E]

1. It will run the way it's supposed to.

2. Stock arrestors are fine, but it would be a good idea to remove one of the 3 metal screens in each side.

 

[djraider700]

Im at sea level and the recommended specs were pretty darn close to being dead on. Enjoy the power. You'll kick yourself for not doing it sooner.

 

[600h.o.]

Im at sea level and the recommended specs were pretty darn close to being dead on. Enjoy the power. You'll kick yourself for not doing it sooner.

Are you running stock airbox or aftermarket arrestors?

 

[stagesrt4]

i run Proks on my setup....and on all my skis

I also have outters on most skis as well..

 

[djraider700]

Are you running stock airbox or aftermarket arrestors?

Completely stock airbox. I removed the choke plates from the stock carbs and run a primer though.

 

[600h.o.]

Thanks for the replys! The more info I gather the more confidence i get for the install!

 

[guy_from_Iowa]

If you haven't already think about picking up a flow control valve too, I def. felt a difference when I installed my B pipe. and where in Minnesota are you?

 

[600h.o.]

West Central MN, where.....as of today, most lakes still have some ice coverage.......lol

 

[iangdesign]

Keep the stock airbox...NOTHING is better for the money. And run a FCV, one of the best cheap mods I have done to my SJ.

 

[nucleus_coolins]

1. It will run the way it's supposed to.

2. Stock arrestors are fine, but it would be a good idea to remove one of the 3 metal screens in each side.

Ah, good idea on removing 1 screen from each side. Im going to do this now before I put my carbs back on, should help it breathe easier.

Thanks for the tip Matt

 

[Marty]

i have just installed a mod pipe to my stock RN and i installed a 75 low jet, 135 High jet and stock n/s with the stock 115gr spring. 1 turn high, 4/5 turn low. I left the flame arrester stock. Runs pretty strong!

 

[Drewwho]

Get the T-Handles for the carbs, makes tuning way easier. Jetmaniac's stainless allen head bolts are nicer then what comes from factory pipe if you want to go ahead and get those. Get a 12mm wrench (if thats exhaust mani size wrench, and shave part of it down to make it thinner, gonna need to do that to get two center bolts on with the limited space available, its a pain, you'll see when you start putting it on). Also if you have the bosses with tamper caps in them to prevent carb adjustment go ahead and start popping them out and cutting off part of the boss to get the new T-handles on.

Mine was slightly over 1 turn high and slightly under one turn low. I also dropped to 95g spring. Gulf Coast Florida. I'm adding the FCV and will be trying that out next week.

 

[Armored snuffy]

Yes, getting the tamper proof caps off of mine were tricky. We spent a fair amount of time doing this. We used a screw extractor to get them off. And people recommend cutting the two middle top bolts that hold the exhaust manifold on. I just shortened mine up about 1/8 inch or so, just so they wouldn't bottom out. The same bolts that you will need to use the shaved down wrench I believe.

 

[600h.o.]

You may get a kick out of this, But who makes the flow controll valve and how does it work?

 

[Ben Holloway]

Jetworks makes them, you can get them from Jetmaniac. Think of it like a pressure relief valve when you at idle it does not allow any water into the stinger thus keeping the waterbox dry, when you open up the throttle and increase the pressure in the cooling system the valve opens up and puts water in the box to keep things from melting down. Dry waterbox = more hit on the bottom end...

 

[oside-tanner]

When setting up the pipe, I have found that the more you can dry out the pipe the better, as long as you run a bypass, I Always use a flow restrictor where the water enters the stinger at the end of the chamber, I'm currently running a 3 mm restrictor and I have never had a problem with my ski. I personally think a flow restrictor is safer than a flow control valve, most people don't even set up the flow control valve correctly. I flow restrictor doesn't need to be anything fancy either, I'm using a nylon dowel with a 3mm opening from a rc car

 

[600h.o.]

Thought I should update everyone. Prior to recieving the pipe, I removed the carburetors, drilled a 13/64 hole in each of the brass block off plugs, tapped them with a 1/4-20 tap and used a deap well socket, a 1/4 -20 bolt and nut as a puller to remove them, worked super slick. I changed the main jet from 130 to 135, set the high speed screws to 1 1/2 turns out and the low speed screws to 1 1/4 turns out as recommended by factory pipe. I removed one of the three screens from each of my oem spark arestors. The install of the pipe went well, I struggled getting the limited pipe to fit without rubbing, I found that shimming the l.h. side of my water box up 3/4" cured all of my fitment issues. Went and test road it today, 80* and it runs excellent. I am very happy with it. Thanks for all the tips!