Super Jet out of ideas. need help!

D-Nice

flap dem wings johnny!
ok so i jus got done building my RN an go to test ride it wit my new bb771. thing started up fine, warmed it up for 5min. hop on it, rd for like 15 min. come back shut it down pop the hood to check for water leaks, all good go to start it an it doesnt turn over. heres where its odd, i got 12volts to ground coming out of the brown plug going to relay when i hit the start button. relay doesnt click or close, but if i connect a wire from the brown plug on relay an put it to the positive battery terminal it starts right up. so obviously the relay is good an the start stop switch is good if im gettin 12volts comin outta it. i even switched the start stop switch with one from a working blaster an still doesnt turn over. im running an msd ignition enhancer i must add an the ski will run when relays brown wire is jumped to positive. any info?
 

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
How did the terminals look for the start/stop? Any corrosion? Pins pushed back and not making contact? Stuck stop button? Pull the key and replace a couple times...etc, etc to exercise th terminals.

You have 12 volts with the brown wire disconnected, what do you have on it when it's plugged in?
 

D-Nice

flap dem wings johnny!
well i had to abort cuz of rain but yea i disconnected the brown wire for relay at male/female connection, take the male end from relay an touch it to positive on battery itll fire right up, leave it disconnected an put lead from meter in female side an other lead to ground in e-box an hit start i get 12volts. in theory connecting the male an female should send 12v straight to relay an close since puttin male end comin off of relay to battery closes it an fires it up. the conmection is clean an has dielectric grease in it. its crazy
 

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
tidy bilge system is working great btw ;-)
That's aweome, lol.

It is possible that with no load on the circuit, you could read 12 volts with a meter but yet not get enough power thru the wire to power the solenoid. This is typical of a high resistance connection due to corrosion or a failing connector. If you connect up the solenoid and complete the circuit, then you test for voltage under load which is a more accurate test. Since it runs just fine by powering direct off the battery then I will say that the solenoid is likely to be good. Swapping out start/stop assemblies does not change it so that is likely good as well. That leaves your ebox harness and internals but before you get too carried away, check the stock fuse. They are notorious for causing poor or intermittent connections which show with symptoms exactly as you are describing. Wiggle it a couple times and see what happens. ( "That's what she said", lol)
 
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D-Nice

flap dem wings johnny!
haaa thats what she said!
ok so fuse was brand new. i opened the fuse holder an closed it a few times an disconnected the terminals on it an reconnected them and it fired right up. so its looken like the fuse holder was my problem. thinkin i should cut off the male female connections and jus load a butt connector up with die electric grease and crimp it an heat shrink em
 

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
Not necessarily, sometimes the fuse itself is the issue so inspect the fuse and holder before you commit to choppin. If the holder is corroded or starting to twist a terminal off then I'd say replace it but you could run without as well. (FYI, JSS sends out all his ebox's without the OEM fuse).

I keep a couple on hand if you want another, $5 shipped.
 

D-Nice

flap dem wings johnny!
well i still got a second tidy bilge kit i got off u for my blaster so ima use the one that came with that an jus put a male end on the one side. thatll get me goin for now an if it happens again ill replace the male an female plugs on the harness itself. whats your paypal again cuz i will want to replace the one i ganked off the tidy bilge kit for the blaster an will prolly wana change the stock fuse holder out on the blaster while i got it apart
 
Had/Having this same problem. From what I have got is it is the s/s switch itself. If you pull the white and black wires (lanyard) and it starts with the lanyard itself in then the switch is bad. I am still working this out but just saving to get a new s/s switch.
 
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