painting a stock RN hood

[ATS_Aaron]

Most of the paint flaked off my 1999 RN hood. I and chipping the rest of with a razor blade. The SMC surface underneath is really smooth, like not prepped at all. So what is the best way to prep a stock RN hood for paint? Just sand it (what grit?)? Or is there a chemical prep that needs to be applied?

Thanks,

Aaron

 

[Mike W]

I think I started with a 220 grit and finished with a 150 grit. Then shot it with Awl Grip primer then an automotive paint.

 

[Big Kahuna]

What he said, I cannot remember the primer I use to use. It was dark gray. Not a sand-able primer. May have been awl grip. But paint the hood white or silver before you add your color. Last ski I painted was suppose to be deep metallic red, it looked brown in the shade.

 

[b-rad]

You needed to get the mold release off the parts that's why they flake !


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[Big Kahuna]

There was never any issues with the 96-97 white hoods. It was went they changed to the blue that the issues started. I believe they changed constructuon methods also. Maybe different materials.

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[b-rad]

It's a adhesion problem! Mold release I've been building restoration and painting cars for 30 years it happens before paint goes on


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[b-rad]

if your prepping for primer sand with 180 grit use a 2k primer automotive ! when done priming put black spray paint mist over parts so when you sand the primer you can see flaws ! sand starting with 240 and end with 320-400 ! prep seal after 2 coats of base wait for that to dry and use 600grit paper with wax and grease remover and sand out dust nibs then last 2 coats of base then clear !
any color sealer works for paint ! my rule for 30+ years has been if you put 4 coats of any color that will be your color.

 

[Vumad]

It's a adhesion problem! Mold release I've been building restoration and painting cars for 30 years it happens before paint goes on


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You have a few good posts in this thread. Thank you.

I know the problem is the release agents in the SMC. I had planned on using an epoxy based primer prior to using a more easily sandable poly primer to get the right finish before paint.

What are your thoughts on this? Is the epoxy an unnecessary extra expense or a good idea to ensure a lifetime of adhesion?

This question is applicable to the B1 and the SJ hoods, as I own both.

 

[b-rad]

The epoxy is not good for sanding if you need a building primer use spray Polly ! Adhesion is not chemical it's mechanical!


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[b-rad]

If you are just dealing for paint use a hardened sealer


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[Baja 252]

Sun / heat is also an issue with the mold release, the hotter the hood gets the more it tends to peel. Our black 04 in TX was awful, but I have heard up north the issue of peeling paint is much less.

 

[Vumad]

The epoxy is not good for sanding if you need a building primer use spray Polly ! Adhesion is not chemical it's mechanical!


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So just confirming that you are saying that an epoxy primer before a poly primer will not outlast a poly primer alone?

 

[b-rad]

No use spray Polly for primer and when you paint the only reason you use a sealer is for evening out the color


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[michael750x2]

.

 

[Vortex]

2k primer works well as a general purpose primer, i used that on my carbon hood. Spray poly also works well especially for filling in small cracks in old gelcoat, had good results with that on a handle pole I just painted, but it does take longer to spray because it takes longer to flash between coats. Interlux/awlgrip epoxy paint works great on the bottom hull...Epoxy primer, I sprayed a lot of it back in the day for auto restorations, its good stuff but again it takes a lot more time to properly apply it, have to spray your sanding primer over that within the specified window.

 

[b-rad]

2k primers shrink