Super Jet Painting Superjet
- Thread starter tonka971
- Start date
How far you sand down depends on the paint products you intend to use. A lot of primers should be just fine on existing paint if you don't want to sand all the way down.
A high build primer will fill in imperfections very nicely.
Best paint? Depends on how much you want to spend. I've used single stage paint given to me for free (leftovers) and I've used a system of House Of Kolors paint (primer, sealer, base, intercoat clear, various other base colors, and multiple coats of clear) that I paid about $600 for.
Figure out what your budget is both in money and time you want to spend and go from there.
A high build primer will fill in imperfections very nicely.
Best paint? Depends on how much you want to spend. I've used single stage paint given to me for free (leftovers) and I've used a system of House Of Kolors paint (primer, sealer, base, intercoat clear, various other base colors, and multiple coats of clear) that I paid about $600 for.
Figure out what your budget is both in money and time you want to spend and go from there.
- Location
- south dakota
1.. sand down to fiberglass... no...
2.. best paint to use... gel coat...
1.. this will differ depending on substrate(what's already there).. if it hasn't been painted before(factory gel) sand with 400-600 until the shine is all gone..
if it's been painted before, could be a different story.. painted once i would go with the previous procedure.. if there's more than one repaint, sand to gel coat
or close to it using 180 followed by 320 then prime with something(depending on the system you want to use...
2.. gel is the best to use, though not the most feasible.. rattle can paint will work if you're on a low budget project and just want to to look decent(i'd suggest one of them trigger deals or your finger will be sore).. automotive paint system(weather it be ppg, dupont, hoc, sherwin williams, basf) is virtually the "best" next to gel... if sanded with 320 for primer, i would NOT use a high build primer(they are NOT a moisture barrier, and would be much like using body filler) epoxy primer sucks to sand but does have filling characteristics.. if the substrate does need filing your only real option is high build primer.. if this is the case so be it, the only alternative is extensive and would require more product and procedure than i want to get into... if the substrate is more or less defect free(at least to your taste, and you started sanding with 180) epoxy then paint(paint will not fill 180 or 320 grit but epoxy will).. if epoxy primer is used, let epoxy flash for 2-4 hours then paint(no sanding if done this way, if you wait until tomorrow you will need to sand it)...
if you just sanded with 400 or 600 you don't need to prime it with anything, just sand and paint(weather you're doing single stage or base clear)...
the key to any paint job is prep(doesn't matter what paint you use) before you even start to sand clean it with a mild detergent and water(much like you'd wash your car) but not that "wash n wax" crap... after that, clean it with a good wax and grease remover(any auto paint store) keep wiping until it's mostly dry... now sand it... after you're done sanding(before you paint) wax and grease one more time... let dry good before either paint or primer...
*if you don't use auto paint, then skip all of it and just do the prep part...
if i didn't know any better i'd say i've painted a time or two...
Thanks for the replies. I am thinking I want to keep the cost around $200. I think for the bottom half I will have to sand most of it down to the fiberglass so I can fill in some scratches with a fiberglass mix. For the top I think I can get away without having to go all the way to the fiberglass as you guys have suggested. I think I will try to go with the ppg paint as I have seen others recomend it in the forums.
- Location
- south dakota
i honestly wouldn't bother with minor scratches on the bottom... or sanding to fiberglass.. to fill any big scratches just sand with 80 grit to scuff it good and fill... i just seal/base/clear on the bottom of mine over most of the scratches.. didn't want to waste time, it's the bottom, it scratched once... will happen again... i never grind down to the glass unless i'm actually glassing the area, like installing holds or repair or something... keep all cosmetic repair in the gel coat, for the simple reason sand the glass you lose structural thickness, sand too much, it will weaken it...
- Location
- south dakota
what year is it? most any oem hull laid up has gel coat... smc on the other hand won't have gel coat... but to my knowledge all sj hulls are gel coated minus the newer hood(made of smc)...
The bottom deck of any SJ is SMC.
- Location
- Discovery bay
Here's the easiest way.... as long as it's got No huge body filler... get omni primer/sealer 40$$ get a qt of paint... a qt of clear... and 5 sheets of 180and 5 sheets of 320 and 5 sheets of 600 ....sand the top smooth with 320 and then spray sealer let sealer sit for a hour lightly nib/smooth sealer with 600 then base and then clear.... sand sides of bottom with 320 but sand very bottom with 180 but only sand straight down the bottom long ways(No circles or side to side ) so you can't see a bunch of swirl scratches if the scratches are one way you won't see them...this will get that paint to stick best on the bottom... seal the bottom nib it with the 600 again and base clear it!! Fast easy
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- Location
- Holt MI
I would do whatever Stblaz08 says... the paint on the chan is crazy
- Location
- south dakota
yea, realized that after i logged off... haha... but they're still gel coated..
- Location
- fortcollins
prep prep prep prep and more prep, key to any good paint job, base clear i think is the way to go(gel coat is best but pricey), you can shoot a few extra coats of clear that will eventually sand and polish off. remember that its alot harder to remove the paint than to squirt it, do it right the first time!!!!
I spent about 8-10 hours this weekend trying to remove stickers and stock turf. I ordered a 3m Adhesive Eraser Wheel to help with the rest of the residue. So far I have used goof off, razer blade, and sand paper to get most of it off. I didnt expect this part to be as difficult as it has been. What do you use to remove the stickers and stock turf?
