300/440/550 Pic's and Specs of My 94' 550sx w/my custom Footholds

[Mark Gomez]

:bigeyes:

How was the speed recorded?!?

I had a 550 that hit 48 on the radar and was squirley as hell.

54 is hard to imagine on a JS hull. :smile:

I was haulin balls on flat glass water and my bud on his newer seadoo couch was riding next to me.
yeah its INSANE:bigeyes: I was so low on in my ass is almost sitting in my tray im so low mainly for speed and it was dusk so the bugs were in the air and felt like mini BB's hitting my face lol. Yeah its squirly if your standing all the way up with all the wind and chop water but even at 54 it wasnt like i was fighting the ski to keep it straight just didnt want to be stupid stand up and fight my own balance and eat ******** at 54 and die

 

[IceRocket1286]

lol thats why. sea doos and all jet skis have dream-o-meters. it probably goes a good 48 or so. Never trust stock pwc speedos. Your 550 is still sweet as hell though

 

[Idok]

:bigeyes:

How was the speed recorded?!?

I had a 550 that hit 48 on the radar and was squirley as hell.

54 is hard to imagine on a JS hull. :smile:

I ate it @ 56 on the red boat in its original state while still accelerating.......the GPS went flying (luckily it floats!), and the speed showed 56....and it defintatly had some revs left......

once the exhaust hit "that" note....all that was going thru my mind was :bigeyes:

 

[RoyalFlush@PCB]

I ate it @ 56 on the red boat in its original state while still accelerating.......the GPS went flying (luckily it floats!), and the speed showed 56....and it defintatly had some revs left......

once the exhaust hit "that" note....all that was going thru my mind was :bigeyes:

I told you that thing would fly when you bought it!!! :biggthumpup:

Too bad that it was all mid and top end with the porting it had. :frown:

 

[KaosFreestyle]

What do you guys use for GPS to get the speed?

 

[Mark Gomez]

i dont think i completely understand your question the way you worded it...

 

[550MonsteR]

:werd: Awesome ski, Fearlessnuts, and thanks for the referral to x-h2o! Very clean 550 indeed, gives me more inspiration to really scrub the engine compartment in my ski!

I can't wait till my 550 is done, it's real clean and I just picked up a 90' engine for it. Should be here Friday or so.....just need to get the fix on why my paint is hazed.....

 

[Mark Gomez]

:werd: Awesome ski, Fearlessnuts, and thanks for the referral to x-h2o! Very clean 550 indeed, gives me more inspiration to really scrub the engine compartment in my ski!

I can't wait till my 550 is done, it's real clean and I just picked up a 90' engine for it. Should be here Friday or so.....just need to get the fix on why my paint is hazed.....

Thanks bud welcome to the X!
right on id give you tips or my best advice but applying semi black semi gloss cleanly for my nose brackets was hard enough it took a couple of tries :sneaky:

 

[KaosFreestyle]

Yea I just looked back and I hardlnt understand it. What GPS unit are you using to record the speed?

 

[FreestyleFreak]

550

Man that 550 is off da hook.55 is hauling on a 550.Good job.

 

[Mark Gomez]

Yea I just looked back and I hardlnt understand it. What GPS unit are you using to record the speed?

A new sea doo RXP

 

[Mark Gomez]

Man that 550 is off da hook.55 is hauling on a 550.Good job.

yeah it is lol hurts to eat it at that speed too... thanks bud

 

[MrSki]

I get my 550's to rev over 10K (max of the tiny tach) just sitting in the water on the trailer. Out on the water it is a different thing though. About 8,500 is the ma I have seen the tach. If you have the tach viewable when you are riding, it would be good to see the revs from that.

As far as your top speed, that would be impressive it it was accurate. Not saying it is not, but those couch speedo's are not rerally know to be too accurate. A GPS would be better. (Lost mine last time out working on top speed runs actually.)

I'm a little concerned about your water lines. I don't see any bypasses. Do you have a tee after the flow control valve? If you reduce flow through the motor itself too much, you risk over heating. Right now the water temps are low...this summer could be an issue. But if you run another pop-off before the head pipe, you might have some issues. I tried it and the pipe was not predicatable. Instead, I use a needle valve.

You are on the right track though as far as water flow through the exhaust. I spent the last several months testing water flow through this same exhaust pipe. Besides your explanation of the low end flow to the stinger, when the the valve does pop off at higher R's, the pressure within the head pipe water cavity drops and and there is less water forced into the exhaust stream through the pisser hole in the head pipe. This will effectively shorten the length of your pipe and give you more top end boost...probably what you are noticing once the valve is adjusted properly.

Depending on your porting, manipulating water flow through the head pipe and into the exhaust stream will give you different results. If you want to experiment, run a dedicated line to the head pipe. I have tee'd together 2 inlet lines from the pump right where they enter the engine compartment. 2 go to the exhaust manifold and one then goes to the head pipe. This way, the exhaust is run completely independent of the engine effects and I can run 2 pissers off the head to keep the 2 cylinders evenly cooled.

I like the white and black scheme - same as my boat.

 

[Mark Gomez]

I get my 550's to rev over 10K (max of the tiny tach) just sitting in the water on the trailer. Out on the water it is a different thing though. About 8,500 is the ma I have seen the tach. If you have the tach viewable when you are riding, it would be good to see the revs from that.

As far as your top speed, that would be impressive it it was accurate. Not saying it is not, but those couch speedo's are not rerally know to be too accurate. A GPS would be better. (Lost mine last time out working on top speed runs actually.)

I'm a little concerned about your water lines. I don't see any bypasses. Do you have a tee after the flow control valve? If you reduce flow through the motor itself too much, you risk over heating. Right now the water temps are low...this summer could be an issue. But if you run another pop-off before the head pipe, you might have some issues. I tried it and the pipe was not predicatable. Instead, I use a needle valve.

You are on the right track though as far as water flow through the exhaust. I spent the last several months testing water flow through this same exhaust pipe. Besides your explanation of the low end flow to the stinger, when the the valve does pop off at higher R's, the pressure within the head pipe water cavity drops and and there is less water forced into the exhaust stream through the pisser hole in the head pipe. This will effectively shorten the length of your pipe and give you more top end boost...probably what you are noticing once the valve is adjusted properly.

Depending on your porting, manipulating water flow through the head pipe and into the exhaust stream will give you different results. If you want to experiment, run a dedicated line to the head pipe. I have tee'd together 2 inlet lines from the pump right where they enter the engine compartment. 2 go to the exhaust manifold and one then goes to the head pipe. This way, the exhaust is run completely independent of the engine effects and I can run 2 pissers off the head to keep the 2 cylinders evenly cooled.

I like the white and black scheme - same as my boat.

Yeah i took that with a tiny tac from our shop my brother has one glued to his Hydro turf so he cans see it while riding i didnt though because i simply havent bought one yet =/ But that is a good point.
Yeah i agree about the seadoo speed-o's but it was flat glass water and a new RXP so idk i know forsure i wount trust one of the old common GTX or whatever the one that everybody and their mom has.

I'm a little concerned about your water lines. I don't see any bypasses. Do you have a tee after the flow control valve?

Well my flow control valve is up front millimeters from the stinger water inlet on my pipe. its the blue jet works one so i dont understand or quite see how T'ing off from there would be of any significace... but if im misunderstanding let me know i really dont know if i am getting my money's worth with that valve where it is now or not. And yeah how i saw those pics thats a lot of water splitting off different directions. So from what you said and what i understood what you did is... Took the main line comming from the pump, split it into two lines one going to your exaust manifold which splits into another two which one is connected to the manafold and the other goes to your head pipe? then that second line from the Main Inlet flows to the head and from there you have two taps on the head that go directly to two pissers outside of your boat? i got confused and couldnt see all of it in the pic so im just trying to put it together.
My boat has stayed cool even under load in the test tank.

Besides your explanation of the low end flow to the stinger, when the the valve does pop off at higher R's, the pressure within the head pipe water cavity drops and and there is less water forced into the exhaust stream through the pisser hole in the head pipe. This will effectively shorten the length of your pipe and give you more top end boost...probably what you are noticing once the valve is adjusted properly.

As for this are you saying that that is what is happening to my boat now because the valve is connected behind the stinger and in front of my Spitter?
Thanks for the info
-Mark

 

[MrSki]

Fearless - take another look at my pics...sorry I thought those were clear.

I have 2 3/8" lines coming up from the pump. Once in the engine bay they split together an make a 3rd water line. By splitting them first and then making the 3rd line, any water pressure differences are equalized and the 2 lines running to the bottom of the exhaust manifold flow the same rate (damn close anyway). Those 2 lines flow through the engine and out the 2 head ports to pisser lines...never touch the exhaust head pipe.

The 3rd line created (the yellow one) then goes unabated to the needle valve screwed into the head pipe. I can control water flow into the head pipe but it never shuts off. There is always some kind of flow (unless I closed the needle valve entirely off but I tried that too and it gets the pipe too hot).

There is a pisser hole inside that head pipe - drilled through the exhaust stream path from the inside of the casting into the water jacket. I plugged up the stock one with JB weld and drilled/tapped another through the water fitting port...installed a mikuni low jet. Now I can also control overall flow into the water jacket directly.

Now the pop off valve (flow control) is in front of the stinger input just like yours. I still need to add a bypass on the other side, between the pop-off and the stinger, to ensure that when it does pop-off, that pressure inside the head pipe is immediately released. That way, water flow through my jet into the exhaust is instantly relieved....not eliminated, but drastically reduced.

With the tee after the stinger's pop-off valve, you eliminate dumping a ton of water into the stinger lead but still flow some for noise control and a little denser exhaust medium in the pipe (makes for faster sonic waves and more high RPM power).

I have run this basic set up in testing and in general, it showed positive results and an ability to manipulate the pipe's power band. However, my PJS T-3 porting has such a high power band that I think my 16.5 pitched 550 pump was choking it too much on the low/mid range...so now I'm installing a more free flowing 440 pump.

I'd say in general you have a pretty good set up. I was told a 15 pitch was the max I should try in a high reving 550 with a 550 pump (even though I've seen over 8K on the tach under full load before with the 16.5) but again, this T-3 motor is a different animal. Depending upon your port job, you can probably fine tune your water flow and pick up another 300-500 RPM on top if you tweak it right.

 

[Mark Gomez]

Woah thats nuts you went really nuts with the water for the head pipe by drilliing it and stuff woah. nice job! I am definetly considering your set up especially because the ocean pro head allready has pre tapped optional elbow holes on the top. and has the blocking screws that is stupid easy to close up again. However just to really be clarified only because i can see directly from the picture but the 3/8 line that comes from your pump right as it comes into your ski you T it and make it two then thats how you get your two lines or did you somehow add a second inlet line to your pump.
My friend and i tried messing around with my water line before i had my flow control valve at the river using a rock and zip tie to decrease the flow and it definetly was meaner but got really hot. then again that was a rock to control flow not a good valve.
thanks for the information and tips
where do you live?
-Mark

 

[Jawbreaker]

If you were to take the rubber/plastic sides in the trey off you would shave some considerable amount of weight and will make your trey about 1-1/2 inches wider. They weigh 15 lbs.:bigeyes: It does require some extensive work filling in the voids before you hydro-turf it.

 

[MrSki]

Mark - I'm out in Phoenix. A rock huh? - you have a new nick name - "Fred" AKA Fred Flintstone since he worked at a rock quary.

So Fred, Yes I have 2 inlets from the pump. I thought I said that. Pump has 2 feeds coming off it and 2 3/8" lines through the hull and into the engine bay.

Normally one would run each of these 2 feeds to 2 intakes on the bottom of the exhaust manifold. Me, not so normal, has used 3 tee fittings to create 3 cooling lines inside the engine bay. I still run 2 of these to the bottom of the exhaust manifold and the third is the dedicated line to the exhaust head pipe.

If you go to the www.jetworks.net web site, he talks about a dedicated water line for the exhaust in the electronic water control section. I found this a few days ago even though I have been trying the technique for months. Great minds think alike or some crap.

Anyways, many guys scarf at my waterflow experiments and manily because they have no experience with squeezing every ounce out of a 550. More like they have a 750 or 800 motor and it rips stock so why mess with it...Too bad they don't listen and learn something.

It looks to me like you are getting to the "time to squeeze it" stage and this is why I chimed in.

 

[Mark Gomez]

If you were to take the rubber/plastic sides in the trey off you would shave some considerable amount of weight and will make your trey about 1-1/2 inches wider. They weigh 15 lbs.:bigeyes: It does require some extensive work filling in the voids before you hydro-turf it.

No way 15 lbs!?:bigeyes: and omg i know my bro turfed his and it took him 3 hours it came out really clean though

 

[Mark Gomez]

Mark - I'm out in Phoenix. A rock huh? - you have a new nick name - "Fred" AKA Fred Flintstone since he worked at a rock quary.

So Fred, Yes I have 2 inlets from the pump. I thought I said that. Pump has 2 feeds coming off it and 2 3/8" lines through the hull and into the engine bay.

Normally one would run each of these 2 feeds to 2 intakes on the bottom of the exhaust manifold. Me, not so normal, has used 3 tee fittings to create 3 cooling lines inside the engine bay. I still run 2 of these to the bottom of the exhaust manifold and the third is the dedicated line to the exhaust head pipe.

If you go to the www.jetworks.net web site, he talks about a dedicated water line for the exhaust in the electronic water control section. I found this a few days ago even though I have been trying the technique for months. Great minds think alike or some crap.

Anyways, many guys scarf at my waterflow experiments and manily because they have no experience with squeezing every ounce out of a 550. More like they have a 750 or 800 motor and it rips stock so why mess with it...Too bad they don't listen and learn something.

It looks to me like you are getting to the "time to squeeze it" stage and this is why I chimed in.

haha alright right on well come summer ill start messing with that but it runs for now and i just have to worry about keeping my hull together while i go mash on it every weekend in the surf. but thanks for your advice thats really interesting i definetly will come back to this come time to start going faster
thanks
-Mark