I guess first off my setup is a std bore 701 with freestyle ported cylinders. Factory dry pipe, msd enhancer and dual 48mm sbn carbs on R&D intake manifold and V force reeds. I have girdled head with 170 psi and a skat trak 13/17 prop.
Last season I was running bigger domes and was only at 145 psi so I dont think it could have been the fuel as I do run 91 octane. As well with the 13-17 pitch prop I dont think is to high pitched for it. Correct me if im wront tho please.
Now with my setup I am 1580 ft above sea level and last season I had 140 main jets but I put in 145's on the rebuild. Do you think 145 is enough or should I be jetting higer yet? Should I be adjusting my high idle screws? They are at 1.5 turns out.
How do I check or adjust timing?
I have just recently rebuild the engine (just finished last night) and I want to make sure I got it right before I hit the water with it.
Its a factory dry pipe. Im pretty sure its a type 9 but im not 100%. Im running dual cooling as well. 1 to the exhaust manifold and 1 to the pipe. Is there water screws on the dry pipes?
Did you buy this ski all done and tuned? Or did you do all of the modifications yourself? Are you following a recipe from your engine builder or is this just a bunch of parts bolted on and some ported cylinder that maybe is not ported correctly for this combination of parts?
48mm carbs? Who built them? Brand? No, I can't say if a 145 main will cure it.
What brand of head? What cc domes? What is you squish clearance and squish ratio? You cannot use a gauge to check compression ratio, this needs to be done by cc filling the engine to calculate mechanical compression ratio.
Who did the porting? Are you running a bored exit nozzle on your pump? Yes you could be overpropped with the 13/17 if running a stock nozzle. Are you running a stock pump cone?
In order to check timing, you need a timing chart for what stroke and rod your running, a dial indicator, make up a pointer for the coupler and a timing light. You would then set indicator at desired timing, using pointer make a mark corresponding to the pointer. Now your ready to hook up timing light and fire up engine and look at marks while blipping to max RPM to see maximum retard with the MSD Enhancer. (about 5500)
Why don't you just run the dual cooling normal? Why reinvent the wheel?
Is the water REALLY cold? If so why dual cooling? Or you can run a restrictor system to manage between cold and warm water.
These Factory Dry pipes are NOT user friendly some of the time if you don't know what your doing as a performance engine tuner.
