*POLL INCLUDED* Dual cooling in TX (~80 degree water temps)

Is dual cooling necessary for rec riding in TX with a pipe and head?

  • YES

    Votes: 9 50.0%

  • NO

    Votes: 9 50.0%
  • Total voters
    18
Jksuperjet

Jksuperjet

Location
Austin
I have read through mostly all the information available on this site, and others regarding dual cooling, so don't hit me with the "check FAQ". Still unsure on whether it is completely necessary for a rec ski with all the mixed responses I saw.

This would be in a 701 SJ with a b pipe and an ADA head. I am already going to tap the b pipe manifold for a second inlet either way to eliminate pulling off if I decide to add the dual cooling. I am curious as to what others have been running. Mostly riding Canyon Lake, and Lake Travis so the water temps in the summer will range from 80-85 degrees.

Thanks! :D
 
JMew03

JMew03

The call me Mew Mew
Location
DFW,TX
I don't think it's necessary to have dual going on that set up. My 735 does just fine with single cooling. Just tune the pipe correctly.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
 
Vumad

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Chuckie said a superjet shouldnt need dual cooling, but mine was running hot in florida so i do have it. I think most of us do.

Id choose my stock siphon over dual coolkng if were talking insurance. Ive never clogged my cooling but ive had plenty of bilge failures.

I can see how it could happen in a place like daytona where ypu ride riht into the shore, but usually when i ride out, im watching my pisser. I dont much see a need for cooling insurance if im not riding in such conditions. I am riding in those conditions however, and florida gets bathwater hot at lakes.
 
Jksuperjet

Jksuperjet

Location
Austin
Vumad said:
Chuckie said a superjet shouldnt need dual cooling, but mine was running hot in florida so i do have it. I think most of us do.

Id choose my stock siphon over dual coolkng if were talking insurance. Ive never clogged my cooling but ive had plenty of bilge failures.

I can see how it could happen in a place like daytona where ypu ride riht into the shore, but usually when i ride out, im watching my pisser. I dont much see a need for cooling insurance if im not riding in such conditions. I am riding in those conditions however, and florida gets bathwater hot at lakes.
Click to expand...

Losing the stock siphon is my major issue. I don't want to rely on unreliable bilge pumps!

I personally have never had a line clog up, so I dont know how common it is. The lakes here do get pretty warm surface temp wise. I dont know how it compares to Florida but id think it's similar, if not hotter.
 
Roseand

Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
Yeah, people say running one line into the mani is perfectly fine, just watch pisser flow and if one stops, then swim the ski in. The reality? Sometimes when you're having the time of your life and you take your eyes off of the pissers for a bit while you're chasing a boat or riding a wave, you might not catch a clogged line. I've had weeds clog up a line before! Two into the mani is a no brainer in my opinion.

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Vumad

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
So, based on what everyone is saying this far, you do not need dual cooling. If it's insurance for a clogged line, then you don't need it to run.

In the case of @Quinc story, you don't even need single cooling. If a line broke off from the pump, then the second inlet on the manifold became an outlet, which would be robbing cooling pressures and actually flow less water than single cooling.

My heat came from racing. Be sure of you commit to single cooling, your tuning process also tests racing conditions. Wot runs generate a lot more heat. I didn't need dual cooling for fartsing around. Aerials also generate more heat, since the pump is frequently out of the water.
 
smoofers

smoofers

Rockin' the SQUARE!!!!
Site Supporter
Location
Granbury, TX
To the argument against unreliable bilge pumps:
Really? Are you guys running crimp connectors in salt water? I have dual bilges (redundancy is never bad) that are now 7 years old in my SN that has been through salt numerous times, although I mostly ride fresh. I run at least one as soon as I hop on the ski and don't turn it off until I beach the ski. Even then sometimes i forget and realize it's still on when i go to ride again or load the ski up. I still have yet to burn up a bilge. Granted, my bilge, switch and battery connections are all soldered and heat shrunk. On my HX with dual versa plugs, you're screwed if you swamp the ski and can't board it to get going and get the water to drain. With a stock siphon, you have to get up to almost full throttle to get the ski emptied. With bilges, after a flop or sub, I crank both on and wait until the ski is empty then I'm off. I also run dual cooling FYI.

Edit: I still don't think dual cooling is NECESSARY on a limited setup, but saying bilge pumps that are installed properly are unreliable is just false.
 
Jksuperjet

Jksuperjet

Location
Austin
Vumad said:
So, based on what everyone is saying this far, you do not need dual cooling. If it's insurance for a clogged line, then you don't need it to run.

In the case of @Quinc story, you don't even need single cooling. If a line broke off from the pump, then the second inlet on the manifold became an outlet, which would be robbing cooling pressures and actually flow less water than single cooling.

My heat came from racing. Be sure of you commit to single cooling, your tuning process also tests racing conditions. Wot runs generate a lot more heat. I didn't need dual cooling for fartsing around. Aerials also generate more heat, since the pump is frequently out of the water.
Click to expand...

Yeah mostly wake jumping, jackin around, and boat chasing here. Not many WOT runs.

7 years is damn good with the same bilge pumps!
 
Jksuperjet

Jksuperjet

Location
Austin
smoofers said:
To the argument against unreliable bilge pumps:
Really? Are you guys running crimp connectors in salt water? I have dual bilges (redundancy is never bad) that are now 7 years old in my SN that has been through salt numerous times, although I mostly ride fresh. I run at least one as soon as I hop on the ski and don't turn it off until I beach the ski. Even then sometimes i forget and realize it's still on when i go to ride again or load the ski up. I still have yet to burn up a bilge. Granted, my bilge, switch and battery connections are all soldered and heat shrunk. On my HX with dual versa plugs, you're screwed if you swamp the ski and can't board it to get going and get the water to drain. With a stock siphon, you have to get up to almost full throttle to get the ski emptied. With bilges, after a flop or sub, I crank both on and wait until the ski is empty then I'm off. I also run dual cooling FYI.

Edit: I still don't think dual cooling is NECESSARY on a limited setup, but saying bilge pumps that are installed properly are unreliable is just false.
Click to expand...

The reason I say that is I have a riding buddy who has had tons of issues with switches and bad bilges. I know it takes a while for the stock siphon to get all the water out, but its reliable as hell.
 
Quinc

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California
Vumad said:
So, based on what everyone is saying this far, you do not need dual cooling. If it's insurance for a clogged line, then you don't need it to run.

In the case of @Quinc story, you don't even need single cooling. If a line broke off from the pump, then the second inlet on the manifold became an outlet, which would be robbing cooling pressures and actually flow less water than single cooling.
Click to expand...

Still had a dribble coming out of the pisser. Cylinders stayed around 140 but my chamber was at 200.
 
kevbo

kevbo

Location
dfw
A Superjet is OK with its stock 8mm cooling line. Old Kawasakis with 7mm lines and fittings will get hot enough to scald. Most electric bilge pump failures come from debris (zip-tie tail) stopping the pump. Siphons are good to keep if possible.
 
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