- Location
- South Florida
Who can school me on how to properly test one for cracks/leaks?
Powerfactor pipe testing procedure (and why you should do it)
- Thread starter McDog
- Start date
DAG
Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
Pfp has 3 fittings to the water jacket. I take a hose and connect 2 of them together and put a pump/gauge on the other. I pump to 8-10psi and just let it sit. It's not like a motor slow leaking thru a gasket/sealent if there is a leak or will leak fast thru a cracked weld. so no need for the 10psi for 10minites. But will also hold pressure for days if your gauge is good
- Location
- Lake Orion, Michigan
+1. this is easier... can you can actually see pretty quick if it is leaking or not.
for you visual peeps, check out the pic on my thread here:
http://x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/...-notes-follow-up-to-my-tnt-pfp-thread.175651/
- Location
- the jetski grave yard
easiest is plug all nipples with fingers but one. leave a hose on it and just suck on it. put your tongue on it to seal the vacuum. wont hold any vacuum for 1 second if its cracked.
DAG
Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
Fart into the chamber and if you don't smell it thru the barbed fittings you are good to go
Christian_83
Xscream
- Location
- Denmark
The above stated methods are what you want to do 
I just remember i bought a new style PFP for a buddy 2 years ago, that was promised to be perfect and no leaks. When it arrived it had some external dents to make it fit a hull and seller still claimed it was all good.
Well of course i did a pressure test, first with a pop carb off pump - and used my own old style (no leaks) pipe for reference.
Heres is the videos i made to the seller. Excuse my bad english, the videos was made in a hurry to settle the situation
First test with compressed air, from a pop off gauge:
Then with a waterhose to visually asses how big the crack was:
I just remember i bought a new style PFP for a buddy 2 years ago, that was promised to be perfect and no leaks. When it arrived it had some external dents to make it fit a hull and seller still claimed it was all good.
Well of course i did a pressure test, first with a pop carb off pump - and used my own old style (no leaks) pipe for reference.
Heres is the videos i made to the seller. Excuse my bad english, the videos was made in a hurry to settle the situation
First test with compressed air, from a pop off gauge:
Then with a waterhose to visually asses how big the crack was:
- Location
- South Florida
My pipe has a small crack on inner weld. It would hold air pressure for about 10 seconds. I used water next and saw the small streams. I posted this after the air test hoping someone would say that it was supposed to have a small stream of water injection somewhere. Not the case. I recently had my engine run lean and melt a piston. It was tuned fine but I did find it extremely odd that I had to turn the screws so lean to get it to feel right. It never had the lean "falls on it's face" hesitation no matter how far I went. It was a full turn and a half in on the lows from what my builder said it should be. We were all shaking our heads after checking carbs multiple times. From what I have read (THANKS @Roo) it seems the culprit was the pipe leak.
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