SuperJETT said:
the reeds should seal very well. however, at the rate that youre pumping air in, they wont seal that well. its not like youre suddenly zapping the engine w/ 8 lbs psi. youre gradually pumping it into the engine.:cheer:
Pressure Test
- Thread starter ski4
- Start date
the reeds should seal very well. however, at the rate that youre pumping air in, they wont seal that well. its not like youre suddenly zapping the engine w/ 8 lbs psi. youre gradually pumping it into the engine.:cheer:
wildman326
Who else?
- Location
- Kansas
I was told that you should use a brake bleeder (like a Mighty Vac Brake Bleeder or knockoff) to create negative 15 lbs of pressure. That it should hold it for 5 minutes without losing pressure. If so "good." If not pump no more than 5 lbs while squirting soapy water to find leak.
I use those circular wingnut plugs.
I use those circular wingnut plugs.
ski4 said:
ive never done a vacuum test. ive only dont pressure tests. id imagine that since the inside of the "test area" is under constant vacuum/pressure/vacuum/pressure.... it wouldnt mater one way or the other. i cant think of a reason why a vacuum test wouldnt work.... or effup the engine/seals.
- Location
- Lake Havasu City, AZ USA
I have never heard of a negative/vaccum test on a two stroke PWC motor..
If you have a leak with the vaccum test, how are you gonna find it? I dont want to try and look for soapy water being sucked inside my motor somewhere.:banghead: That's just not right.
I would think a pressure test would be better with a spray bottle with soapy water or a bottle of "Leak Detect" solution and looking for bubbles.:biggthumpup:
If you have a leak with the vaccum test, how are you gonna find it? I dont want to try and look for soapy water being sucked inside my motor somewhere.:banghead: That's just not right.
I would think a pressure test would be better with a spray bottle with soapy water or a bottle of "Leak Detect" solution and looking for bubbles.:biggthumpup:
SUPERJET-113 said:
RIGHT!:cheer: :cheer: :cheer:
wildman326
Who else?
- Location
- Kansas
What I said (wrote) was:
1. Use a brake bleeder (like a Mighty Vac Brake Bleeder or knockoff) to create negative 15 lbs of pressure
2. Watch the guage on the mighty vac to verify if it will hold 15 lbs for 5 minutes without losing any pressure
3. If so "good." You're done.
4. If not, pump no more than 5 lbs (positive presure) while squirting soapy water on the outside to find the leak.
So there is no negative pressure to suck soapy water in when you are doing the "soap" test.
I'm not sure about why a "negative" test was suggested to me, but I think it's because it simulates the most dangerous type of leak or because the cases are under negative pressure when the motor is running.
1. Use a brake bleeder (like a Mighty Vac Brake Bleeder or knockoff) to create negative 15 lbs of pressure
2. Watch the guage on the mighty vac to verify if it will hold 15 lbs for 5 minutes without losing any pressure
3. If so "good." You're done.
4. If not, pump no more than 5 lbs (positive presure) while squirting soapy water on the outside to find the leak.
So there is no negative pressure to suck soapy water in when you are doing the "soap" test.
I'm not sure about why a "negative" test was suggested to me, but I think it's because it simulates the most dangerous type of leak or because the cases are under negative pressure when the motor is running.
wildman326 said:
15 lbs psi is too much. 6-9 lbs psi are the recommended numbers.
http://groupk.com/tec-airleak.htm
wildman326
Who else?
- Location
- Kansas
OK. The info I layed down is off of notes I took from talking to Paul. I'll check with him this weekend to see if I wrote something down incorrectly or why 15 is the number.
feartheride
feartheride
- Location
- St.Catharines,On.Canada
I have always found I needed a check valve in line to stop the pressure from leaking back out,depends on your pump
I agree with slfsurfrider
"easiest method i have found is rubber gasket material. cut 2 pieces. one goes between the carb and manifold and the other goes between the headpipe and manifold. only cut the bolt holes and not the bores and bolt your carb(s) and pipe. dont go past 8 lbs psi."
I agree with slfsurfrider
"easiest method i have found is rubber gasket material. cut 2 pieces. one goes between the carb and manifold and the other goes between the headpipe and manifold. only cut the bolt holes and not the bores and bolt your carb(s) and pipe. dont go past 8 lbs psi."
Great thanx guys!
I went today and bought all the stuff needed to do this, so ill hopefully get to it tomorrow and maybe ill snap some pics of the process for whoever wasnt too sure of whats going on.
So when the flywheel cover is off, dont i need to remove the flywheel and stator to see behind??
Thanx
Zane...
I went today and bought all the stuff needed to do this, so ill hopefully get to it tomorrow and maybe ill snap some pics of the process for whoever wasnt too sure of whats going on.
jopi said:
So when the flywheel cover is off, dont i need to remove the flywheel and stator to see behind??
Thanx
Zane...
no need to remove the flywheel.....hopefully.
youre removing the cover so it doesnt hold pressure and give you a false reading if your front crank seal is bad.
youre removing the cover so it doesnt hold pressure and give you a false reading if your front crank seal is bad.