Pump Shimming Struggle

I have searched and it seems that the consensus seems to add shims if the driveshaft will not line up.

I bought a 2002 Sj off of here that was heavily modified. Carbon fiber reinforced, tubbie destroyers, footholds, etc. Anyways, I'm finally getting around to finishing it. I put together a Solas mag (using heat/cool method), new hooker prop, new sbt wear ring, new wsm driveshaft, thrust trim, new pump seal. The Solas pump was clearanced by watcon, so I know it's now binding up.

I have the Cold Fusion driveshaft tool. I installed the pump and the driveshaft was too low in the firewall. I tried more shims, and it did not help much. Then, I took out the dowel pins for the top of the wear ring and that seemed to help a little bit.

Is the solution to keep adding shims on the rear bolts until the driveshaft is centered? Or is there something else I may be doing wrong? This is my first pump install, but I am really familiar with working on other areas of skis. The ski is upside down right now to help make things easier.
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JMew03

The call me Mew Mew
Location
DFW,TX
If the ski is upside down then you need to shim the part of the pump closest to the pumpshoe to bring the shaft to the correct spot.
Try removing the shims at the rear of the ski and see what happens.

Can use a thick washer if you dont have enough shims as a quick solution for now.
 

tshank123

Yo hablo ingles
Location
Vegas
the only problem if you keep shimming the rear is that the angle of the driveshaft into the midshaft. You can shim your midshaft housing to compensate though.
 
Way im doing it with the cf alignment tool is slide pump up to pump shoe, go inside slide sleeve on shaft into tool, snug wear ring bolts up, recheck inside slide sleave make sure it goes in smooth. Slide shims under reduction, use what you need so they slide under reduction nozzle tight then cinch bolts down recheck inside, should be good, did you install pump shoe yourself?


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