question about interm. shaft housing rebuild

surfjunkie

surfjunkie

Location
deland fl
while this site was down, i took this question to the other site but since it wasn't about which wax is better or top speed runs no one is commenting...j/k

maybe ya'll will help me out:


i am rebuilding a housing i bought to put in my ski. not sure what it came out of but the bolt holes line up like they should, which was the only possible difference i thought.


i bought a wsm bearing and seal kit and the bearing in the kit is about 2/3 the width of the bearing we pressed out. the int diam. and outer diameter appear the same, just the width is different.

anyone run into that and does the width matter. i assume since you have to press it in, it wouldn't be moving around in there, plus int. shaft doesnt move around front to back right?

any thoughts???

thanks
 
Q

QuickMick

Guest
It sounds like someone else replaced that bearing with a different size aftermarket bearing before you got ahold of it. The WSM will be the same size as the OEM bearing. There should be (2) "C" clips holding that bearing where it should. One clip on each side of the bearing. Then one seal on one side and the other two on the coupling side.

When I put mine back together I used a depth micometer and made sure the bearing was in there within .005 from one end. Not cocked to one side. I went and did the same thing with the seals too.
 
surfjunkie

surfjunkie

Location
deland fl
the circlips butted up against the bearing for the wider one. i assume there will be 1/4 inch gap from circlips when i put this one in, unless there are multiple slots to install the circlip in ( i dont have the housing with me to check)


????
 
Q

QuickMick

Guest
surfjunkie said:
the circlips butted up against the bearing for the wider one. i assume there will be 1/4 inch gap from circlips when i put this one in, unless there are multiple slots to install the circlip in ( i dont have the housing with me to check)


????
Click to expand...

Ohh sorry I read that wrong. I read it as the one you pulled out was the thin one. Hmm Idont know why the WSM one is not as wide as the OEM one.
You might want to double check and make sure you have the correct bearing.
 
surfjunkie

surfjunkie

Location
deland fl
but i'm just trying to envision if it really matters.

i would think the only way it would create a problem was if there was enough back and forth pressure on the bearing from the driveshaft to where it would push past the circlip and push out a seal??

does the intermediate shaft ever move back and forth?
 
Q

QuickMick

Guest
surfjunkie said:
but i'm just trying to envision if it really matters.

i would think the only way it would create a problem was if there was enough back and forth pressure on the bearing from the driveshaft to where it would push past the circlip and push out a seal??

does the intermediate shaft ever move back and forth?
Click to expand...

I dont think it will push past the circlip, thoes boys are a bitch to get out.

on my shaft, (I just rebuilt mine right before Daytona) the shaft actually has a shoulder where if it comes up to the bearing, the shaft will stop.
I dont think it ever moves back and forth. It may over time move toward the pump from the motor moving back and forth from jumping waves and landing. But then again once the shoulder hits that bearing I dont see it moving any further back. Now if your bearing is not as wide as the OEM and that only means the shaft can be pushed back the total thickness of which your bearings is missing. :dunno:

I tore apart 3 different interm. shaft housings just before daytona. 1 from a raidar, 1 from a gp 760 and my SJ. All the housings look the same to me.
Obvious the shafts are longer but built the same. All 3 bearings were the same, even the seals were the same with one missing on the couches.
My sj had 3 seals in it (1 pump side 2 motor side) where the couches only had two. (one each side of the bearing)

I would go back to whom ever you got your bearing from and ask them to double check what its for. It will prolly work though.
 
surfjunkie

surfjunkie

Location
deland fl
QuickMick said:
Now if your bearing is not as wide as the OEM and that only means the shaft can be pushed back the total thickness of which your bearings is missing.
Click to expand...


good point. we will pull apart the housing that came out of the sj today and see what that bearing looks like.

thanks for the replies.
 
JetManiac

JetManiac

Stoked
Site Supporter
Vendor Account
Location
orlando
make sure you replace the 2 o-rings on the inside of the shaft. They help keep the water out of the splines. Grease up this connection well before reassembly.
 
crammit442

crammit442

makin' legs
Location
here
jetmaniac said:
make sure you replace the 2 o-rings on the inside of the shaft. They help keep the water out of the splines. Grease up this connection well before reassembly.
Click to expand...

And every time you pull the pump too! Good point and almost never mentined.:fing02:
 
surfjunkie

surfjunkie

Location
deland fl
just to follow up in case anyone else has this question and finds this thread...

there were two slots for the circlip to go and the narrower one lined up perfectly with the smaller bearing so seems all will be good.

however, the seals that came in the wsm kit didnt seem to match what the clymer manual called for, but in they went:fingersx:
 
SuperJETT

SuperJETT

So long and thanks for all the fish
Location
none
If you get your bearings/seals from a local bearing supply company, it's like $10 and they are much better quality normally. Get double lip seals for all 3 also.
 
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