Question about starter/battery for dasa stroker engine

AndrewMcEyes

AndrewMcEyes

Hi guys, I recently installed a new engine dasa 94mm stroker +10mm with pump gas domes, this is the first stroker engine for me. I use the stock ignition with msd enhancer and a gel battery that I used on the stock 701 engine (battery in the picture).
This battery has never had problems with the stock 701 engine, but with the new engine hard to turn. I can only start the engine if the battery is fully charged (about 14volts), but after a couple of starts the voltage drops to 12,5volts and the engine does not start.
Even if the battery fully charged and then unplug without using it, the day after the voltage drops to 12.5V and the engine will not start.
Before I go to trial and spend much money I want your own opinion:
1-battery is over;
2-the battery is of poor quality for this engine;
3-or for these stroker engines must be fitted with an ignition TL a lithium battery?

Thanks for your help.
 

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erik mx45

erik mx45

Location
outer banks
mybe u have bad connection and starter is heating up or could be week starter and the bigger motor is stressing it ! possible or battery going south
 
Jet_jase

Jet_jase

Location
England
You need to get another battery that works and give it a go? Also what Amp/hr rating is it? The new motor will have more compression which will make your starter work harder to spin the motor thus making your battery charge reduce.
 
AndrewMcEyes

AndrewMcEyes

I do not understand anything of batteries ... I only know that the two poles of the battery and their cables are hot after starting ...
 
Harbor

Harbor

Location
Stockton
My new engine which is a little bigger had the same issue with a 120 CCA battery, the 120 CCA worked fine on my 8mil 865 cc @200. I bought the ant gravity lipo 16 cell small case battery @ 480 CCA to resolve the issue with the 16 mil

A friends boat which cranked fine last year with a 701 @190 psi won't crank fast enough to start this year after installing a 819 cc 5 mil stroker @210 psi. I found the ground cable getting hot when cranking, I checked to make sure no paint on case or starter where negative cable connected then installed new temporary ground and isolated it to high resistance in the negative cable. A new cable fixed his.

You'll most likely need a bigger Rated cold cranking amp battery like I did. On the cables mine did not get hot so you may have the resistance issue in the cables as well. They are about $75
 
AndrewMcEyes

AndrewMcEyes

The cables I've redone new with the new engine. I do not think it's a problem of resistance.
But you can mount a lipo battery on a stock ignition?
 
DAG

DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
Location
Charlotte, NC
Are your battery cables 4ga? They should not be getting hot unless there is excess resistance. What part of the motor do you have the battery ground? Sometime the anodized aluminum insulate the connection. Best place to ground it on the back of the starter bolt just as stock OEM ski's do it. Sounds like you have a dieing battery but it also sounds like a poor connection is causing the battery to die fast. If you swap in a new battery i'm sure it will work at least temporally but if you have a draw issue your just going to kill that new battery in a matter of time. How old is the current battery?
 
AndrewMcEyes

AndrewMcEyes

DAG said:
Are your battery cables 4ga? They should not be getting hot unless there is excess resistance. What part of the motor do you have the battery ground? Sometime the anodized aluminum insulate the connection. Best place to ground it on the back of the starter bolt just as stock OEM ski's do it. Sounds like you have a dieing battery but it also sounds like a poor connection is causing the battery to die fast. If you swap in a new battery i'm sure it will work at least temporally but if you have a draw issue your just going to kill that new battery in a matter of time. How old is the current battery?
Click to expand...
The battery goes back to 2011.
The earth lead is connected to the bolt of the starter.

Sorry, what is the 4ga cables?
 
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jo5hi3

jo5hi3

Location
Charlotte NC
As voltage drops amperage goes up. I have run a 120cca deka9 on my dasa 1000 without an issue. I am currently running a lithium with 200cca and no issue with it either. If your cables are getting hot you have an excessive draw. I would start first with checking the battery voltage under load, most parts stores can load test them. If the battery passes i would start looking at the starter for bad or stuck brushes. Is the starter new or good used oem?
 
AndrewMcEyes

AndrewMcEyes

jo5hi3 said:
As voltage drops amperage goes up. I have run a 120cca deka9 on my dasa 1000 without an issue. I am currently running a lithium with 200cca and no issue with it either. If your cables are getting hot you have an excessive draw. I would start first with checking the battery voltage under load, most parts stores can load test them. If the battery passes i would start looking at the starter for bad or stuck brushes. Is the starter new or good used oem?
Click to expand...
Starter is oem, from 1999...
 
Harbor

Harbor

Location
Stockton
Do your cables get hot right away when the engine cranks ok with 14 v first 2 cranks ???

Or after it starts cranking slow and your voltage has dropped to 12.6 and your holding the start button down watching it crank slow ?

The anti gravity 16 cell I have is a little over 14v fully charged. Voltage stays around 14 when randomly checked

Did your starter happen to get water Intrusion thru the snout from water in the timing cover area ?
 
AndrewMcEyes

AndrewMcEyes

The engine has 2.5 hours of life, all the seals are ok. No water.
The cables heat up when the battery drops below 13 volts.
Until a week ago the battery allowed me to run an hour without problems, he was weak but was able to start soon. These days instead seems worse, if the engine does not start on the first try and I have to insist a bit ', it falls now to 12,5volts and no longer starts.

I emphasize that from the beginning with this engine has always been weak start.
 
Harbor

Harbor

Location
Stockton
The engine sounds like it's to much for your battery then. The heat sounds more like An effect of a week undersized battery for the amount of engine you have rather than the cause.

It might be as mentioned a little of both, battery and resistance/starter

I never took any starter cranking amp measurements on mine before I replaced the battery. I think I isolated it to the battery by using a good pair of thick wire jumper cables and an automotive battery
And got good cranking rpm. I also called Thrust to see what battery was used on this size engine, Anti 480 CCA they said

So my results are off the cuff, I could have high starters draw too and not know it
 
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