Custom/Hybrid Questions before I chop my hull

[Robnobnorb]

Right I have started to chop my hull up a little this is a spare hull of course but I have just really got into the defoaming really before I work into the rocker and a few other bits I need to no a few things, I want to get them right in my head before I cut too much.
I only ride in choppy sea water or small to medium surf so I'm trying to make something fun and nimble to ride in these conditions, something easy to flip in small close surf.
So some of these questions may seem a bit amateur but bear with me:
As for the fiberglass which is best what do people generally use strand or biaxial, or is there better stuff?
Resins epoxy resins seem to take top spot, but there pricey, will a polyester do or are epoxy resins defiantly worth there money?
I have seen a lot of pros and cons against scupper valves should I have one or should I just stick with a bilge?
From all the many builds I have looked through for inspiration 95% who cut the bottom deck angle it rather than keep the end square as they are standard, however if I look at aftermarket hulls there generally square jb1 or fs2 xfs etc what's the pros and cons of this? Better square or angled?
Do many surf hulls have splash guards I have read a few people saying that am hulls without bond rails splash in the surf and it's extremely annoying should I fit something?
Does anybody know any of the dimensions or differences from a stock SJ on how much shorter some of the am hulls are that are proven in surf rickter, jb1 etc?
Last of all that I can think off of the top of my head, what are the advantages of pump sticking out of the rear of the hull soo much, it looks bad ass and I love it but It looks like it can be easily damaged and expensive are there any real reasons it sticks out does it help gain trim and steering without having to worry about hitting the hull, or is it because it's just a shorter hull?
Any answers or ideas will be greatly appreciated

 

[Roseand]

You need to use epoxy resin on a square, because epoxy is the only thing that will bond to the SMC(bottom deck) and metton(the top deck). Polyester doesn't bond well. Biaxial is good for adding strength, but lightweight cloth and mat is the way to go for tight corners and places that are hard to conform to. Scupper valves.. Up to you if you need the water out that fast. Someone else might be able to chime in on that. Make sure you remove the stock hoodliner first though. Lookup "slutty hood mod". Get a good hood seal too. Use stock siphon, modded hood, and dual bilges if you're that concerned about a scupper failing..

 

[yamanube]

The pump sticks out because the hull is shortened but the driveshaft and driveline placement remain the same. It is more susceptible to damage but if you are not regularly banging into the bottom, I would not worry about it. Keeping the back end square like stock will make exhaust and scupper installation easier. IMO your best bet is to cut 4" off the back and get a CarterB rocker kit for the front.

 

[Roseand]

x2 on the carterb rocker kit. It'll make it much easier.

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[Robnobnorb]

Right thanks for the fast replies lads, I will defiantly get the epoxy then! And stick to the theory of biaxial is stronger soo all the time I can use it use it but the tighter corners where biaxial will be hard to lay use the chopped.
I don't think I need the water out super fast I'm not planning on doing any quick succession tricks I'm not that good lol was just thinking as I don't like to leave on my bilge running when it's dry but then if I only use it when it gets full I never no when there's a lot in there so ijust turn it on every now and again sometimes there's allot in there other barely any. Will look at the hood mod as they are sooo heavy standard.
So is there no difference in ride with angled back? I have never ridden any hull other than stock SJ it's literally only me and a mate that I have been out with so I can't compare to anything.
If the exhaust and scupper we're not an issue would it be better?
I like the idea of the rocker kit I no there's a few people over here who got one they look really smart, I was thinking of originally just cutting out grooves and forming the standard nose up but will look into it when I got all my ideas and options lol.

 

[Skirunner24]

I just cut -4 off my SN a couple weeks ago. Was relatively easy. I did it with the tray closed though which wasn't ideal. I was still pretty happy with the way it came out. I used biaxial for the first few layers to give it a solid framework and then used cloth to get around the corners, seal everything up, and look nice. I cut it straight. Sure, angled looks bada@@, but it's a surf ski and I really don't care what it looks like haha. It also made sealing up the exhaust tube pretty simple. I ditched the flange and just glassed around it. Then went crazy with 5200. Haven't had a chance to ride it yet. Hope to test it out this week though!

 

[Skirunner24]

I just cut -4 off my SN a couple weeks ago. Was relatively easy. I did it with the tray closed though which wasn't ideal. I was still pretty happy with the way it came out. I used biaxial for the first few layers to give it a solid framework and then used cloth to get around the corners, seal everything up, and look nice. I cut it straight. Sure, angled looks bada@@, but it's a surf ski and I really don't care what it looks like haha. It also made sealing up the exhaust tube pretty simple. I ditched the flange and just glassed around it. Then went crazy with 5200. Haven't had a chance to ride it yet. Hope to test it out this week though!

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[Robnobnorb]

That looks sweet! Nice work there doing that with the tray shut! Let me no how that rides so I got an idea on the 4 inches off!
Are the plugs in the bottom to just empty unwanted after out of the tray to stop water logging?

 

[yamanube]

Here is a quick jobber I did with the tray still intact. I think there was 3 layers or so of 1208 and then a couple layers of light S glass to wrap the corners.

 

[Vumad]

3:1 epoxy resin is easy to work with and will be strong.

1208 is the lightest biax which will make it easier to work with. Biax is structural glass and will be stronger than chop or cloth (because its both sewn together). 3 layers of 1208 will probably be strong enough.

I just did this job on my x2 and it could be done similar on a Superjet. I cut the hull -2" with a slant I like (-1.75" at the bond rail).

I then built a jig out of plywood and 2x4, wrapped it with drop plastic and heated the plastic with a heat gun so it would pull taut. I then strapped the jig on. I used masking tape to seal the jig to the hull to minimize the leak out.

Next I made a putty out of microspheres and epoxy and filled the seams from the hull to jig. The glass won't make that tight corner so the putty makes sure the glass doesn't have air and reduces the finish work when you remove the jig. It only takes a little putty. Along the seam.

I then laid up 2 layers of 1208 with a layer of 24oz weave in between them (if I did it again, I would use 3 layers of 1208. I'm going to go back and add a layer of 1208 the thickness of the bond rail to tie the bond rail to the hull better because I'm moving the bond rail on my x2.

I kept the pieces I cut off the hull and made hull extensions out of them. That's a whole second post if you are interested.

Be sure to sand your hull with 80 grit before laying the glass and prep with acetone or something similar. Wear a respirator any time you are sanding and a dust mask any time you are working with the glass. Wear eye protection of necessary.

 

[Vumad]

These pictures show some steps along the way. I still have some more work to do before my ski goes back into the water.

Disclaimer: you are responsible for verifying my methods, your own work and your own safety.

 

[Skirunner24]

That looks sweet! Nice work there doing that with the tray shut! Let me no how that rides so I got an idea on the 4 inches off!
Are the plugs in the bottom to just empty unwanted after out of the tray to stop water logging?

Ya they're versiplugs. I just switched to them after the chop job. Friends I ride with love them so I figured I'd give them a shot. I had the normal plugs in there before and I would always drain a ton of water anyway after each ride. Even after the refoam/new tray. At least its got home depot foam now.

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[Robnobnorb]

The x2 looks good how thick did your 3 layers end up? Might have to get some plugs then just in case it gets water in there I guess its a good way to get it out if it's got good foam and to save from cutting it all out.

 

[Ryan05]

What nosepiece is on this square?


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[Skirunner24]

whoa...zombie post. Its a Surf Jet Louie nose and hood

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[Tyler Zane]

Damnit, now I wanna chop up another hull ...