- Location
- Atlanta, GA
I broke the locking ball nut joint thing off my nozzle and realized I can still use it to try quick steer. Does anyone have any pics of how far they carved out the sides of the nozzle?
Quick Steer
- Thread starter imabadfish
- Start date
- Location
- Minnesota
What ski do you have?
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
- Location
- amarillo ,tx
∆∆∆∆∆∆ that's what I did on my rn worked great
- Location
- Minnesota
Tools needed
1. M6 x 1.0 Tap
2. 5mm Drill
3. Dremel Tool & Dremel Cutter I used Dremel high speed cutter #196
4. File to clean up the support rib on the steering nozzle
Step one pop of your chin pad and remove the steering cable and the ball joint. The ball joint on the turn plate and the steering nozzle are both M6 x 1.0 threads.
Step two drill the outside cast hole in the turn plate with the 5mm drill and tap. Apply blue thread lock and reassemble the turn plate ball joint and re-install the steering cable. Turn plate mod done.
Step three remove the ride plate and steering cable. The steering cable nozzle ball joint has a 5mm hex slot in the ball end to remove it from the brass insert pressed into the steering nozzle. Remove the steering nozzle.
Step four use the dremel tool and the file to remove the excess material from the top and bottom rib of the steering arm from the steering nozzle to allow drilling and taping of the new ball joint mounting hole closer to the centerline of the steering nozzle.
Step five use the washer from the steering nozzle ball joint to mark where the new hole for the ball joint will be drilled. Once marked use the 5mm drill and 6 x1.0 tap to drill & tap the new hole.
Step six re-install the steering nozzle use thread lock.
Step seven check and center the steering alignment (bars centered nozzle straight) I was able to get things straight with only adjusting the nozzle end.
Step eight Install the steering cable using blue thread lock install the ride plate use blue thread lock.
Step nine see how this changes things.
Little Extra Protection… ***Only necessary on 2008+ Super Jets with the 2.5 inch throw steering cable***.(this may not be needed if you can remove the cable from the turn plate at max throw both directions with no binding)
Steering stop mod. This will give you a 3.175mm (0.125) less travel on your steering cable 0.0625” 1.5875mm per side. This is such a small amount of steering sacrificed for me it was worth it not having to worry about breaking the stock steering cable with the cable on the outside most hole in the stock turn plate.
Material used:
1.) 1/16” x ½” aluminum flat stock. I had this laying around the garage you can pick it up at any home improvement or hardware store.
2.) Super Glue.
All I did was cut two sections of the aluminum stock 0.700” 17.75mm and glued them to the steering stop block. Now with the steering aligned I can easily remove the steering cable from the turn plate at max throw either way. There are now a few mm of safety factor in the steering cable. Why Yamaha went the 2.5” cable in 2008 I do not know. Only thing I can think of is that is what the FX-1 used so it went along with the FX-1 pole change in 2008.
1. M6 x 1.0 Tap
2. 5mm Drill
3. Dremel Tool & Dremel Cutter I used Dremel high speed cutter #196
4. File to clean up the support rib on the steering nozzle
Step one pop of your chin pad and remove the steering cable and the ball joint. The ball joint on the turn plate and the steering nozzle are both M6 x 1.0 threads.
Step two drill the outside cast hole in the turn plate with the 5mm drill and tap. Apply blue thread lock and reassemble the turn plate ball joint and re-install the steering cable. Turn plate mod done.
Step three remove the ride plate and steering cable. The steering cable nozzle ball joint has a 5mm hex slot in the ball end to remove it from the brass insert pressed into the steering nozzle. Remove the steering nozzle.
Step four use the dremel tool and the file to remove the excess material from the top and bottom rib of the steering arm from the steering nozzle to allow drilling and taping of the new ball joint mounting hole closer to the centerline of the steering nozzle.
Step five use the washer from the steering nozzle ball joint to mark where the new hole for the ball joint will be drilled. Once marked use the 5mm drill and 6 x1.0 tap to drill & tap the new hole.
Step six re-install the steering nozzle use thread lock.
Step seven check and center the steering alignment (bars centered nozzle straight) I was able to get things straight with only adjusting the nozzle end.
Step eight Install the steering cable using blue thread lock install the ride plate use blue thread lock.
Step nine see how this changes things.
Little Extra Protection… ***Only necessary on 2008+ Super Jets with the 2.5 inch throw steering cable***.(this may not be needed if you can remove the cable from the turn plate at max throw both directions with no binding)
Steering stop mod. This will give you a 3.175mm (0.125) less travel on your steering cable 0.0625” 1.5875mm per side. This is such a small amount of steering sacrificed for me it was worth it not having to worry about breaking the stock steering cable with the cable on the outside most hole in the stock turn plate.
Material used:
1.) 1/16” x ½” aluminum flat stock. I had this laying around the garage you can pick it up at any home improvement or hardware store.
2.) Super Glue.
All I did was cut two sections of the aluminum stock 0.700” 17.75mm and glued them to the steering stop block. Now with the steering aligned I can easily remove the steering cable from the turn plate at max throw either way. There are now a few mm of safety factor in the steering cable. Why Yamaha went the 2.5” cable in 2008 I do not know. Only thing I can think of is that is what the FX-1 used so it went along with the FX-1 pole change in 2008.
- Location
- Atlanta, GA
I've done this part already. I thought you had to carve the sides out a bit in order for it to be right though... to give you that extra turning radius?
- Location
- Atlanta, GA
Viison with RRP pole. I don't know if your instructions work to T, but maybe they will help some one else. I can't see your pics either though.
- Location
- amarillo ,tx
On my 96rn stock steering nozzle just moved it over as close as a could so no interference might of even moved it back a lil can't remember
Yes, on the stock nozzle, if you have the pivot all the way in like above on the nozzle and all the way out on the steering you will hit the reduction nozzle before maxing out the cable. You can grind the turn nozzle as needed (kind of trial and error) to eliminate this.
The shims that vinniemaxx made are counter intuitive and are just eliminating the extra throw you just got by moving your steering cable position. Grind the nozzle so as not to hit while at full lock and your ski will turn much better.