Re-Sleeve Question

[djkorn1]

I need to put one sleeve in my SXR Cyllinder. Who is the best place to order them from?

LA Sleeve?
There is a WSM one on Ebay?


How hard is it to install? Don't I just bore the old one out to a little bit smaller than the OD of the sleeve? I am assuming you then freeze the sleeve and heat up the cyllinder and drop it in, making sure it is straight and flush with the top of the cyllinder. Is there much more to it?

 

[D Slicker]

Im pretty sure on the Kawis they have to be bored out and then repressed in. At least that is what I hear.

 

[550 SLUT]

la sleeve did my job
they did sweet work
did an awesome Job on the intake and exhaust ports smoothing out

 

[djkorn1]

Thats why the heat and freezing... shouldn't that work as well as a press? According to LA Sleeve they have the exact porting of a stock sleeve, so I shouldn't have any problems.

Anyone try this?

 

[w-nut]

im putting new sleaves in my small pin 750 this week hopfully . i know on the 750 you have to machine the old sleave out as they are cast into the cylinder .so when you machine the old ones out machine it to the right size so you can do the heat and shrink. you usually dont have to frezze the sleave as its cast iron and im not sure wot that would be like putting it in frozen onto a hot cylinder. the ones i have seen done they have just heated the cylinder . its best to prob get a machine shop to do this for you unless you are pretty experaced machinest. there may be a tiny bit off grinding afterwards on the ex port depending on how well you get them lined up before you cant move the sleave you dont get that much time before it locks in there . and maybe a light skim off the top off the cylinder just to make suer its all nice and flat

 

[SUPERTUNE]

Yes, You need to bore out the cylinder liner for a replacement sleeve (kaw casts them in, not like the Yam) and then a small amount of port matching. I SAY definitely do not freeze the sleeve, this shortens your working time to get the ports matched perfect! I have made straping tools that bolt through the headbolts and tie down the sleeve so when the cylinder cools it doesn't let the sleeve push up. Bore out cylinder so you have -.004 (+ or - .0005) interference fit, heat cylinder in pre-heated oven at 400 degrees for 45-55 mins. set the cylinder block up on 4x4's and just drop them in and line up the transfers as close as you can, don't worry about the exhaust port as that can be matched up very easy. I like to machine sleeve flange -.005 on the register, then machine top of deck to match when done with sleeving and then finish bore for piston and hone out last .002 thou. for a perfect bore finish.

 

[egbrig]

Northwest Sleeve is the way to go. Their material is superior to LA's and they're good people to deal with.

 

[djkorn1]

Thanks for all the info. I am only doing one sleeve. This shouldn't be a problem, should it? I have relined injection molding barrells before, so this shouldn't be much different. We always froze the sleeves with dry ice beforehand. I would think it would prolong you ability to move the sleeve a little before it sticks. (It does make a lot of crazy noise though!)

 

[w-nut]

i wouldnt recoment frezzeing cast iron sleaves then droping them into a hot hole id be worrried about cracking the sleave , cast iron dosent like extream heat changes . we started boring out my cylinder today to take my new big bore sleaves we are giveing then 4 tho interferance fit . here is a couple off pics off the boreing process , in the second pic you can see the band off the old sleave where it has been cast into the cylinder and will stay in there under the new sleaves. when we heat the cylinder for the new sleaves we have a real scientific way off measureing the right temp , heat them and spit on them untill they sizzle nicely lol