re sleeving

[wsuwrhr]

You might want to look it up in a dictionary.

In case you didn't notice, I quoted your post.

Brian

Who is humiliated? Nobody corrected me, and you didn't even catch the mistake. I did once I read it again.

 

[Kennay]

Wow. Guess I am as dumb as I look.

Then again, I'd never say humility, I'd just use humble. Simple mind I suppose...

 

[wetjet701]

I think wsuwrhr is correct the best method is a press but I do not own one, and where I work there is no oven. So this is my alternitive, if I had a press that would be my tool of choice.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Ypo cannot press them in,this is the correct way to do it,not only that its the only way to do it.:wave:

 

[wsuwrhr]

??

You have to be kidding, right?

I am talking about using a press to seat the sleeves, not to press them in the whole way. It wouldn't even be possible.

You can't be serious.

Brian

Ypo cannot press them in,this is the correct way to do it,not only that its the only way to do it.:wave:

 

[Big Kahuna]

hmmmmmmmmm, 2 ways to skin a Cat........ If the cat is missing its fur in the end then all is good.......

 

[WFO Speedracer]

??

You have to be kidding, right?

I am talking about using a press to seat the sleeves, not to press them in the whole way. It wouldn't even be possible.

You can't be serious.

Brian

That comment was meant for those that might misinterpet what he was saying and think that you could actually press the sleeves in,those that already know ,know that its not possible,interference fit is just what the name implies.:swordfight:

 

[wetjet701]

Yes, sorry I ment to press them flush instead of using the wood block and mallet to get them to seat.

 

[Yamer-Jammer]

My sleeves did not just "drop out"...

Any suggestions for how to properly continue removing the sleeve after it is hit with a block of wood and rubber malet, and it is still in the cylinder body and all of the area to hit is now down in the cylinder body. (so the bottom of the sleeve is level with the base of the cylinder body). Using a punch and hammer would be bad, could score the side of the cylinder body which would mess with the tolerance for the new sleeve. Plus it could also mushroom the cylinder sleeve on the way out also scoring the side of the cylinder body.

Anyone else ever run into this and know of a more gentle approach?

 

[sj762]

did you heat it ?

 

[Yamer-Jammer]

I did. Then when it did not fall out, I re-heated it and tried lightly tapping on the sleeve with a flat headed punch and it was not wanting to go. Hate to hit it any harder...

 

[sj762]

how long did you heat it i think it needs 20 to 25 minutes at 450

 

[Yamer-Jammer]

I heated it at 450 deg for 25+min both times. I would prop open all the doors from the kitchen to the garage and put on my welding gloves then open the oven and grab the cyl and run it from the kitchen out to the garage setting it on my vise. Shake my hands a few times since the heat would bleed throught the welding gloves, then I got to work on hammering out the sleeve.

Perhaps there is an issue with the heat rapidly dissipating, should I heat it at 500 or broil? I am in AZ so it's not like it is cold out or anything

 

[Fro Diesel]

Had the same problem. One just slipped out the other was stuck. Eventually I took it to someone with a press and more tools.

Sent from Fro Diesel using Tapatalk.

 

[augustaf]

If your cylinder sleeve is cracked or seriously damaged from a crank failure, it probably will not pop out. In that case it needs to be bored out or sliced with a die grinder.

 

[Weber guy]

Augustaf is correct.
If you are simply dropping an undamaged sleeve, it's usually fairly easy using the techniques described earlier.
Often the sleeve is damage from rod failure, etc and has a lip in the exhaust or transfer ports that keep the sleeve from sliding out easily.

If you dont want to damage the cylinder itself, you need to have the sleeve bored out carefully. If you are re-sleeving with aftermarket big bore sleeves, you can carefully use the die grinder method, as the cylinder OD will be bored to accept the larger diameter cylinder sleeve.

If you are replacing an OEM sleeve, be sure to measure the OD, as not all years and models had the same diameter.
Be sure to buy your wife / g-friend a nice dinner after trashing her oven and smelling up the kitchen.

regards,
Randy

 

[Myself]

And this is one of the things I did today. I put 3 new sleeves in a 65u 1200 cylinder. 2 went pretty easy and I had to fight the damaged one. Overall took right at 2 hours. I use the bolts and washers to keep the sleeves in place as I work and keep them there while everything cools.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

That cheddar is looking really sharp !

One trick I learned was to take one oven rack out , then you can flip the cylinder upside down and support it on two bricks at the ends , a lot of times the cylinders will just drop out that way when they reach the correct temperature , but you are correct on damaged sleeves they can be a bear to remove , I have had to resort to busting the damaged section out with a punch and a hammer before to get them out , luckily cast iron breaks fairly easily .

 

[Myself]

You can actually see that I did end up whacking it real good with a chisel to bust it out. Part of it is laying at the bottom of that cylinder pic.