Super Jet Removing stock exhaust

I'm ordering my B Pipe and have been looking into removing the stock exhaust which looks pretty tight. I have read in some places it's easier to remove the engine? I'd prefer not to have to do this is necessary, is there any method of removing the stock exhaust w/o pulling the motor? Such as pulling it piece by piece or what not? Also, I've read some threads where people pull the motor and remove the fuel tank, and everything which seems like more of a PITA. As always I appreciate the help guys.
 
I was afraid of that. Most say its just 4 bolts then others say you have to remove fuel tank and everything? Also, I'd assume the pump and everything would need to come out? Or does the motor just pull from the coupler?
 
Location
CA
I was afraid of that. Most say its just 4 bolts then others say you have to remove fuel tank and everything? Also, I'd assume the pump and everything would need to come out? Or does the motor just pull from the coupler?

The motor just pulls from the coupler but your ebox has to go with the motor. Either way I have found it easier if you pull the battery box/tank in that order. Remember the placement of any motor mount shims before you take it out.

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JHD

Site Supporter
Location
Colorado
Tank and battery tray was all I had to remove to get the stock exhaust out and B pipe in. Tight but seemed easy enough. Do you have a manual? There are step by step instruction to remove the pipe.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Post #20
http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/103772-My-1st-Superjet

You do not have to remove the tank or battery box to get the motor out with the stock exhaust. Disconnect the ebox from the hull, battery and start/stop switch. Disconnect the throttle cable and fuel lines from the carb. Remove the coupler cover, and disconnect the grease and water lines. Loosen the 4 motor mounts, and remove the shims under the engine cradle (keep them in order) before you remove the bolts completely. Pull the motor, exhaust and carbs as one piece. Do the rest of the work on the bench.

Remove the fuel tank and battery box. You will need the tank out to get the b-pipe chamber in, and the tank goes in a lot easier if you remove the battery box. I would pull the motor before the fuel tank, because the tank is hard to get out with the stock exhaust on.

The B-pipe manifold is a pain in the ass to put on. Get a stamped metal 12mm wrench (the kind that come in atv and jet ski tool kits) and grind it down so it fits where you need it to. The two hex head bolts for the b-pipe manifold come to long, so you will likely have to grind them down. Put a tap or bolt on them 1st, then remove the tap/bolt after they have been cut or ground. I did not do this, and while one of these bolts came out perfect, the other damaged my cylinder.

Good luck.

Oh, one last important thing... you need to grind down the center rib or it rubs against your pipe. If you have destroyers, you need to cut about 1/4" off the rear bolt or it will rub your pipe. Do NOT grind the rib with your motor in.
 
What center rib and do you know approximately how much has to be ground of the ends of the bolts? It seems they would have cured this by now if they are too long. Or is it more that the bolts for multiple motors?
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
What center rib and do you know approximately how much has to be ground of the ends of the bolts? It seems they would have cured this by now if they are too long. Or is it more that the bolts for multiple motors?

The rib I had to grind was the 4th rib from the back, even with the stator cover. I am running a A-pipe not a B-pipe but I think that's irrelevant, it's still a SJ limited chamber.

The destroyer bolt I had to grind was the far back one on the left side. I cut about 1/4 of an inch off of it.

The bolts for the B-pipe manifold are too long and it is obvious. Just hold the 2 hex bolts up against any of the 6 allen bolts. You will see how much longer they are. They should all be the same length. I don't care if they provide the kit with multiple motors, it's a half-assed bull :):):):) way of doing business. They know they have a good pipe in high demand so they don't fix an obvious problem. That just tells you what kind of business they are.
 
Yeah I literally just called them to see about shipping and what not and mentioned the bolts being too long once their manifold is installed and they said that it wasn't true and they had never heard of it.

NOTE: I need a fitting for the carb to install a primer on my stock 61x single carb anyone have an extra or know where to get one? I forgot about the carb fitting and just ordered the primer since I had hose and I'd hate to have to order a whole kit for just that little piece?
 
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Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Yeah I literally just called them to see about shipping and what not and mentioned the bolts being too long once their manifold is installed and they said that it wasn't true and they had never heard of it.

NOTE: I need a fitting for the carb to install a primer on my stock 61x single carb anyone have an extra or know where to get one? I forgot about the carb fitting and just ordered the primer since I had hose and I'd hate to have to order a whole kit for just that little piece?

My kit came from Jetworks. The FPP kit could be different. I hear they have you put in heli-coils. Maybe the problem is Jetworks and not FPP.
 
I always pull the stock pipe before engine. very easy. takes a lot of weight of the engine to before yanking that.

How do you go about doing that? Just ending a stretching your hands in there? Some
Of the bolts look very hard to reach even with swivels and extensions

VUMAD: what I meant was I just ordered the plunger not the whole kit with the fittings since I had hose. I forgot I needed the fitting
 
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Location
hhh
take the top part off first, remove the clamp at the rear of the big box pipe and remove that first. then you can get to everything on the manifold.
 
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