Replacing OEM Yamaha Superjet Couplers With Ada Couplers

I have had issues with the OEM coupler dampner breaking teeth off a couple times in the last year or two so I plan on replacing the OEM couplers with the ADA couplers to hopefully get more life out of the dampner. I know about the oem coupler holder tool and my brother in law will be bringing it by next weekend but I'm looking for tips on the proper way to keep the crank from spinning while removing the coupler from the crank. I also want to know the best way to keep the midshaft from spinning while removing it's coupler. I'd prefer to buy the special tool but I'm willing to try without the tool if that's possible without damaging anything. Also I am looking for the name/where to buy the right tool to hold the midshaft when removing the coupler. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
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Location
CA
You'll want rope in cylinder and flywheel lock tool. If you have an expensive flywheel don't just rely on 3 teeth from the tool....be sure to feel for the rope going in any ports. Try 25 times and you'll know when it's right.

I've done rope method 10x flywheel lock 5x never had issues.....I'm sure I did something wrong to the haters....that's why I say feel some tightness with the rope then throw flywheel lock on.

Edit:

On the coupler side just use a big wrench or breaker bar. No need for a specialty tool

Edit 2:

You need a midshadt tool on the midshaft. Basically an old worn out drive shaft cut off with a bolt head welded on the end. jetmaniac sells them. Or you can monkey wrench your drive shaft but that's not a good situation as it can bend or warp.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
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bored&stroked

Urban redneck
Location
AZ
Rope method is fine. Just rotate piston in the direction you'll be turning the wrench until its past the exhaust port then put the rope in. Do it all the time.
 
I'm gonna try and order the midshaft holder from Jetmaniac and then use the rope method in the cylinder for the crankshaft coupler. I don't want to pull the flywheel cover off. Thanks guys. I'll let you know how it turns out. I went through hell to get my b pipe installed over the last week, took the ski out yesterday and WOW what an improvement, the ski came alive! Then on my second ride of the day the damn coupler dampener broke again haha. If I can ensure that the engine and pump are properly aligned, do you guys think the Ada couplers will help prevent the coupler dampener from breaking better than OEM?
 

JetManiac

Stoked
Site Supporter
Vendor Account
Location
orlando
I'm gonna try and order the midshaft holder from Jetmaniac and then use the rope method in the cylinder for the crankshaft coupler. I don't want to pull the flywheel cover off. Thanks guys. I'll let you know how it turns out. I went through hell to get my b pipe installed over the last week, took the ski out yesterday and WOW what an improvement, the ski came alive! Then on my second ride of the day the damn coupler dampener broke again haha. If I can ensure that the engine and pump are properly aligned, do you guys think the Ada couplers will help prevent the coupler dampener from breaking better than OEM?
Use the oem Kawi dampener for the most durable dampener. Align motor to midshaft well with no dampener installed, then slide forward, install dampener and recheck alignment.
 
Use the oem Kawi dampener for the most durable dampener. Align motor to midshaft well with no dampener installed, then slide forward, install dampener and recheck alignment.
Can you please send me the invoice for the midshaft holder tool? I've been messaging you on FB messenger. I need the tool before Saturday please lol
 
If you don't care about damaging the OEM Coupler(s), you can just make a radial cut (from outside to center) with a Hack Saw or Power Sawzall or Cutting Wheel and skip all the Leverage Methods.

Just be careful not to damage the Shaft Threads. You can stop short of full thru-cut and just spit the Coupler with a Wedge or Chisel.

Coupler might even spin off before completing the Cut.
I have the coupler tool so I'll be using a shaft holder and an impact to remove the old couplers. I don't want to risk any damage to my midshaft and crankshaft.
 
I just use normal rope that fits down the plug hole. Make sure you are on the correct stroke side to align with the way you are trying to spin the coupler. Then I find TDC and back off just enough to get the rope in. You do not want the rope to go into a cylinder port or it can get stuck and damage the rings.
 
Used the rope trick yesterday. Didn't have the right kind around the house so we tried a bungee cord and that didn't work haha. Went to Home Depot and got the right rope and popped the coupler off . The midshaft side was easy with the midshaft holder tool that JetManiac sent me
 
I also think I figured out why I kept breaking coupler dampener. The pump alignment was way off. The first picture is where it was when I took it apart and the second picture is how it sits now
 

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E350

Site Supporter
Location
Sacramento Delta
Hmmm. I used an air impact wrench to take the coupler off a Kawi 650 engine with the JetManiac coupler tool. I just left the spark plugs in and tapped the air and the coupler unscrewed and went flying across the shop.

Should I have done it that way?
 
Hmmm. I used an air impact wrench to take the coupler off a Kawi 650 engine with the JetManiac coupler tool. I just left the spark plugs in and tapped the air and the coupler unscrewed and went flying across the shop.

Should I have done it that way?
I'm no expert at removing couplers so Idk lol. But as long as it came off without damaging anything in the process you did it right haha
 
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