Return fuel line plugged. Case full of fuel

air blair

you are the reason
A problem like this can make a regular engine run crappy and and expensive one kaboom. Bigger the engine the bigger the small things matter more huh


Air blair cell
 
You only need a return jet if your return line fitting in the carb has been drilled out. OEM carbs do not need a separate return jet, but typically aftermarket modified carbs like Novi or Full Spec will drill that small hole out so you need to run a separate return jet. It's another thing to help you tune by adjusting fuel pressure, and it also serves to equalize fuel pressure in both carbs if you're T-ing your returns to a single line back to the tank.
The clogged return shouldn't fill your engine when it's just sitting, though. That would be leaky needle and seat or very low pop off pressure allowing fuel to leak past as the gas tank warms up and builds pressure (if you're running a check valve on the vent)...
 

INDebtSJ

Having a VISION!
Location
Ga
Thats the same fuel line I had problems with on my pontoon. Got water in my tank and went to put on a water seperator found that for some reason I wasnt getting fuel. Played with that one for about and hour.
Looked into the fuel line to see that clear tube crumpled up due to pressing it into the barbs.
And I used non ethanol the year before.
 
I almost didn't save a Sea-doo in time from those nasty gray fuel lines mentioned above. The tiny filter inside the carb fuel pump was 95% clogged. Went with Tygon from McMaster.

This looks like another bad failure prone fuel line.

Now on the Yamaha, they seem to have a monopoly on the best fuel line material made. Even though they are expensive I stick with OEM Yamaha line.
 
Might want to check out Viton tubing at Mcmaster Carr. It's expensive at $6.90/ft, but Viton is the most impervious material I have found when it comes to gasoline/ethanol. It has zero effect on it and doesn't harden.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#viton-fluoroelastomer-tubing/=11jrclq
Yes, Viton is very resistant to chemicals. The oil is the only possible weakness in our application.
The Tygon F-4040-A rates slightly higher in the comparison chart, and in my experience also does not harden. I'm not sure that means it is better. At $1.53/ft though:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#tygon-f-4040-a-tubing/=11jskmb

I still think the Yamaha OEM hose is my top pick on the SuperJet. It's ~$7.55/ft when buying the sections from Yamaha.

We stock the grey OEM style fuel line for $2.50/ft.
JetManiac, you have found a source for the OEM material on a reel? Same color and similar type, or the exact same material? I don't doubt you but I see you said OEM style so I am curious.

I bought a bunch of hose before I knew better from Fuellineguy a while back and it is neither Viton or Tygon. It turns hard, fast. Is probably fine for water lines at the most.
 
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Location
dfw
A plugged return line will effectively make the popoff lower whenever the engine is running. It will also force any air to be cleared through the jets causing excesive hesitation and lean runs. The only way gas can get into the engine is through a leaking regulator needle.
 

Fro Diesel

creative control
Location
Kzoo
Yes, @JetManiac sells it for cheaper than dealership, his OEM prices are the lowest i have seen. And he ships out faster than an amazon drone.
He likely gets it from the same source, yamaha, it probably lower price by volume i would hope. Thrust had a bunch of oem style made and it is identical to oem.
 

air blair

you are the reason
A plugged return line will effectively make the popoff lower whenever the engine is running. It will also force any air to be cleared through the jets causing excesive hesitation and lean runs. The only way gas can get into the engine is through a leaking regulator needle.
I think the crappy fuel line caused the plugged return in turn I just changed both my needle and seat cause the leaked to wear no pressure to even set a pop off. A real pain in the butt to trouble shoot. All over a nasty fuel line. Dog gone it
 
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