Revolver R Hull Delaminating

Location
Oregon
I have a 2016 revolver R carbon/fiberglass hull that appears to be delaminating. Any recommendations for how I should go about repairing this to prevent further delaminating? I am still learning so I would like to get as much out of this hull as I can before purchasing a new one.
Any help is appreciated.
 

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Location
minnesota
Must be something about 2016 hulls. My 2016 xfs started to do the same thing and I'm wondering what the best option to tackle the project is also
 
Yeah it is. Got any tips?
I'd start by asking L Stone what they recommend. More than likely you'll be cleaning/scuffing/prepping the best you can and using epoxy to fill the void, clamping and curing. If delam is completely thru hull to interior don't forget to back/seal the inside or you'll wondering where all your epoxy went.
 
Location
Oregon
I'd start by asking L Stone what they recommend. More than likely you'll be cleaning/scuffing/prepping the best you can and using epoxy to fill the void, clamping and curing. If delam is completely thru hull to interior don't forget to back/seal the inside or you'll wondering where all your epoxy went.
I tried emailing him, but I got no response so I decided to post it here to see if anyone else could help.
 
I tried emailing him, but I got no response so I decided to post it here to see if anyone else could help.
Did that delam track , as in spread further on the inside? Is bond line exposed inside ? What's the construction, carbon bottom/glass on top, vice versa?
 
Location
Oregon
Did that delam track , as in spread further on the inside? Is bond line exposed inside ? What's the construction, carbon bottom/glass on top, vice versa?
Yes if I look through the crack I can see fibers against the walls. I don’t believe the bond line is exposed but I can check again once I get home. It is carbon bottom and fiber top.
 
I'd take a 1/16 cut off disk. And run it down that split to open it up, and rough it all up for epoxy. Then I would place spreaders in the gap. Open as wide as I could safely. Squirt in a bunch of epoxy with milled fibers or finely shopped strand. And 11r it together with a wood block top and bottom.

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Location
Oregon
I'd take a 1/16 cut off disk. And run it down that split to open it up, and rough it all up for epoxy. Then I would place spreaders in the gap. Open as wide as I could safely. Squirt in a bunch of epoxy with milled fibers or finely shopped strand. And 11r it together with a wood block top and bottom.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
What brand/type of epoxy would you recommend.
 
I'd take a 1/16 cut off disk. And run it down that split to open it up, and rough it all up for epoxy. Then I would place spreaders in the gap. Open as wide as I could safely. Squirt in a bunch of epoxy with milled fibers or finely shopped strand. And 11r it together with a wood block top and bottom.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
What brand/type of epoxy would you recommend.
Exactly what I'd do. I'd use a slow epoxy , my weapon of choice would be US Composites 3:1. Flip the boat upside down and using a slow epoxy and time will allow it to permeate/ propagate fully into the void. Be sure to check that the void is sealed on the back side so the epoxy doesn't run thru. And cleanliness/scuffing/prep is critical, you'll only get one chance to get it right. Grinding it out for a second try would be a pia.
 
I have done a similar repair like this after a ski got hit on the bond rail. I used this tool to clean out between the two halves.

Dremel diamond wheel

From there instead of using regular epoxy, I would use a 3m panel bond product. What you have going on with that hull is that the two different materials flex at different rates. So you need a binder that can flex slightly without cracking.

3m 420 panel bond

Again just another persons 0.02$.
 
I have done a similar repair like this after a ski got hit on the bond rail. I used this tool to clean out between the two halves.

Dremel diamond wheel

From there instead of using regular epoxy, I would use a 3m panel bond product. What you have going on with that hull is that the two different materials flex at different rates. So you need a binder that can flex slightly without cracking.

3m 420 panel bond

Again just another persons 0.02$.
That's definitely a consideration , why I asked about materials of construction and did it track in previous post . If those bonding binders can be "thinned" with heat that would be a +1 for binder. Maybe a better choice if you can flex the delam open/close and the separation doesn't look like it tracked, sort of using a pumping action to fill the void. It gonna be a judgement call based on what you see.
 
That's definitely a consideration , why I asked about materials of construction and did it track in previous post . If those bonding binders can be "thinned" with heat that would be a +1 for binder. Maybe a better choice if you can flex the delam open/close and the separation doesn't look like it tracked, sort of using a pumping action to fill the void. It gonna be a judgement call based on what you see.
The hull I fixed had a wide bond flange. So I was able to get mixing nozzle in there and make sure I filled it all the way. I actually too a drill bit and drilled the ends of the crack. In an effort to keep it from spreading. Similar to what you would do if you were welding a crack in metal.
 
I've only ever used us composites epoxy. I fixed a backie Chan years back that was delaminating. And i had to replace all 4 motor mount blocks. I've never glued something with straight epoxy before. I always use a filler of sorts to give it strength. It was explained to me that done right, epoxy bonds mechanically, and ionically. Maybe flexing isn't the best for it. Not sure. To me, that seems like a super easy repair. And could be done in a day

Something I never see on here. Dye. You can dye your epoxy black and it will not hinder the strength at all. And it will come out alot cleaner looking needing no paint in the end.
 
I've only ever used us composites epoxy. I fixed a backie Chan years back that was delaminating. And i had to replace all 4 motor mount blocks. I've never glued something with straight epoxy before. I always use a filler of sorts to give it strength. It was explained to me that done right, epoxy bonds mechanically, and ionically. Maybe flexing isn't the best for it. Not sure. To me, that seems like a super easy repair. And could be done in a day

Something I never see on here. Dye. You can dye your epoxy black and it will not hinder the strength at all. And it will come out alot cleaner looking needing no paint in the end.
Lol. Here's a motor mount repair in a Phantom. US Composites 3:1 and adding West 404 for bonding. What's nice is you can add 404 for a putty or a pour consistency. And lol again, I covered it all with 3:1 and graphite as a dye.
DSC05115.JPGDSC05118.JPGDSC05119.JPGDSC05307.JPG
 
Location
Oregon
Exactly what I'd do. I'd use a slow epoxy , my weapon of choice would be US Composites 3:1. Flip the boat upside down and using a slow epoxy and time will allow it to permeate/ propagate fully into the void. Be sure to check that the void is sealed on the back side so the epoxy doesn't run thru. And cleanliness/scuffing/prep is critical, you'll only get one chance to get it right. Grinding it out for a second try would be a pia.
What is the best way to make sure I properly clean/scuff/prep it correctly and what exactly would I use. I’m new to this and it sounds very critical that I don’t mess any of this up.
 
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