300/440/550 ride plate questions

[alberta guy]

I've got my 91 550 sx and i've been looking at aftermarket ride plates and for the most part they look identical to the stock one one than the fact that they are longer. So heres my question. I'm a journeyman welder in a high end machine shop. Can I just add an inch or two to the rideplate length myself and get it re machined flat at work or is there more to it that I don't see?

 

[JPCharmin]

i wouldn't see why not?

 

[ang4th2]

yea make a longer one to keep teh nose down a bit .. you can even add ride plate bars under it for better carving .. you can make a cmplete ride plate or cut the ride plate as well . .
all the plates make teh craft act a little differently .. I cut mine on my x2 and going to D cut it out also .. already easier to get teh nose to jump out of teh water now .. lightened up teh fron .. all depends on what your after

 

[alberta guy]

I Just want the nose to stay down a little more. This ski "hops" a little more than my last one and it had a longer ride plate. What are all thes other cuts you are talking about?

 

[alberta guy]

and what are plate bars?

 

[kevbo]

I've got my 91 550 sx and i've been looking at aftermarket ride plates and for the most part they look identical to the stock one one than the fact that they are longer. So heres my question. I'm a journeyman welder in a high end machine shop. Can I just add an inch or two to the rideplate length myself and get it re machined flat at work or is there more to it that I don't see?

A tab welded to a stock plate will need some reinforcing because it is weak and will porpoise even more after it gets bent even slightly. I like to use two angles about 3/4" bolted to the stock plate extending 3-4". This will provide plenty of strength as well as some added directional stability. Make sure the rear edge is just below the keel for best results.

 

[swapmeet]

Making the stock one longer should work, so yes... But often after market plates have some slight angle of deflection that also helps keep the nose down etc.
It sounds like you have the skills, tools, and material to play with the stock plate without completely destroying it so I say go for it.

The D cut, is just a D shaped cut in the back of the ride plate. It is usually used more by people performing freestyle. It can be various sizes (width, depth) etc...

 

[alberta guy]

I'm thinking it might not work then if it is best with the edge slightly angle down. Reason being the ride plate is stainless and stainless warps and moves ALOT. That's why I hand planned to machine it afterward. I could still make the angle with machining but that means I'd have to get a program written. And for the time it starts to take I could work the overtime and just buy one. And my other solution is to extend it and machine it flat then bend a slight angle. But I don't know if I could get a ride plate in the bender to do it.

 

[snowxr]

A stainless steel ride plate??? Nah, it's more likely to be aluminum. Weld an extension on the plate, following the angles and bends of the original. You can shim the plate to change the angle if needed.

 

[alberta guy]

If its aluminum that changes alot of things. Then I would just cut two slits and bend the end five degrees or so to just give the tail that bend to help keep the nose down and re weld it and not even extend it. I could do that in about 5 minutes. I can bend aluminum a lot faster and easier than stainless.

 

[snowxr]

:banghead: Why not just shim the plate to angle it down, instead? Way easier, and you'll likely find out that you still need to extend the plate for better handling.

 

[fastgtfairlane]

440/550 ride plates for the most part are pretty cheap, why not just get an aftermarket ride plate?? the only expensive one that ive seen is the shredmaster because they're kinda rare and its a intake grate ride plate combo its one piece.. www.shred-master.com