Freestyle Right adjustment for B-pipe

Nik_Pilot

Nik_Pilot

german guy
Location
Essen, Germany
Trying to get the B-Pipe tuned right!


I am not able to really dry out my pipe and so it produces not the power it should.
We all think that there is also too much water in the ATP waterbox...

I want to have bottom end power to midrange power for freestyle ride.


So my Setup consists of this:

-Factory Mod B-Pipe
-ATP Waterbox
-Dual cooling lines
-3 pissers
-2 restrictors to 4mm

Here is a Photo from my actual setting(only the screws are not actual in the pic):
B-Pipe assembly.jpg


Now my idea is:

For the screws
-topscrew open to 1/8 - 1/4
-midscrew closed
-bottomscrew closed

smaller restrictor to stinger pipe with 2.5mm


Would be good if somebody could help me!
Thank you for your support!
 
tor*p*do

tor*p*do

Squarenose FTW
Site Supporter
Location
NW NC
I would replace the 4 mm restrictor with a jetworks
flow control valve at the stinger
to dry out the waterbox
 
MADMAT

MADMAT

Location
Ohio
I wouldn't touch anything until your new pump is in. Your current set up would LOVE a 85mm bore on the exit nozzle!!
 
Nik_Pilot

Nik_Pilot

german guy
Location
Essen, Germany
You mean a bored reduction nozzle up to 85mm?

i got two spare reduction nozzles laying here and will do this maybe tomorrow.


But let's get back to the B-Pipe.

is the restrictor of 4mm okay infront of the stinger or should i really use a flow control valve there?

and what is with the 4mm restrictor at the water inlet down on the Headpipe? is this okay??


Anyone some ideas for the water screws?
 
MADMAT

MADMAT

Location
Ohio
It sounds like it was set up for cold water maybe?

Drying out your waterbox is a tiny tiny thing IMO. Pump and prop and cone and nozzle are critical.

For sure try 85mm on a extra nozzle and you may just end up selling that mag!

You have nothing to lose.
 
motozachl

motozachl

uPsiDeDoWn
Location
JAX
MADMAT said:
It sounds like it was set up for cold water maybe?

Drying out your waterbox is a tiny tiny thing IMO. Pump and prop and cone and nozzle are critical.

For sure try 85mm on a extra nozzle and you may just end up selling that mag!

You have nothing to lose.
Click to expand...

My ski ran like garbage until I tuned in the bpipe so I sorta disagree. 1/4 on the top only sounds good, I would just change the routing of the cooling to tap both inlets on the manifold instead of they way you have it now.....

Also 86mm reduction nozzle is even better FTW
 
Nik_Pilot

Nik_Pilot

german guy
Location
Essen, Germany
I could also plug that 86mm reduction on that mag pump! it#s a 144mm skat-track....

But i want to know how to tune the B-Pipe proper!

so anyone some ideas on the water screws??
 
MADMAT

MADMAT

Location
Ohio
A skat may or may not need 85mm the way a stocker does. My guess is it won't need it or want it......its a completely diff pump...I don't know though...the 144 skat guys will know...
 
Last edited:
Nik_Pilot

Nik_Pilot

german guy
Location
Essen, Germany
what is if i just put a flow control valve infront of the stinger instead of the restrictor?

and can i close bottom and mid screws and just open the top one?
 
MADMAT

MADMAT

Location
Ohio
I would go with a flow control valve to dry out a waterbox at low RPM's if that is what you want to do. I see zero reason for restrictions anywhere...IMHO.

And because you have 2 extra nozzles I would have one bored to 85...you can always go 86 if you want.

None of this matters if you are waiting on a mag pump....no point in doing any tuning until it is installed IMO.

But yes...if you want a dry box at low R's then flow control valve for sure. I think they help.....others don't.

Actually I know they help IF you ride like most of us which is off on off on off on off on off on off on throttle....they do keep the box dry so the next "on" is crisp and immediate.
 
MADMAT

MADMAT

Location
Ohio
And yes FCV goes in front of the stinger...and I agree with whoever said ^^ to go to true dual cooling....both inbound lines go to the bottom of the manifold....

As of now if you clog one line or the other you are screwed.
 
tor*p*do

tor*p*do

Squarenose FTW
Site Supporter
Location
NW NC
get rid of the restrictor before the headpipe, you risk clogging and overheating your pipe
I run dual cooling - both lines from pump to exhaust manifold
head to pisser and bottom of headpipe
top of headpipe to stinger via FCV and T to pisser
my headpipe screws are:
top - closed
mid - 1/2 turn
bottom 1 turn
worked well on my mod pipe and now running a C4
my engine builder told me to run the top closed or you can introduce water into the cylinder
I run a 61x/61x 46 mm with a old a/m waterbox
what is your motor?
 
lilevo

lilevo

Location
Racine, WI
Following the Bpipe instructions is also a good idea... Lol. It tells you exactly how to tune it.

My lower is open 3/4 and top 1/4. Runs great. Instructions go into detail on if you want more midrange, less top end, etc.

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk 4
 
Nik_Pilot

Nik_Pilot

german guy
Location
Essen, Germany
@madmat

you said

I know a B pipe needs tuned too but that is also already been tried and trued knowledge. ...it is known where to set the screws for most bottom end (on his set up anyway)....it has been talked about to death on here...
Click to expand...

i am not able to find the right thread here
could you just give me an advice for the screws?

i will do a 85mm job on the nozzle... i am happy and curious to see how it will act with it.

so i will do water routing like on my last picture without any restriction.
there will be a FCV before stinger.
 
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