Super Jet riva dry pipe question

Hello
any one run a riva dry pipe with the red manifold? How do you find it and would you recommend it for the surf or compare to b pipe?
 

98gti

C@R H@ul3R
Location
NW FL
Absolutely not! I had one on my last SN I built, after about 30 minutes of ride time it cracked and was a PITA to install/remove. I then got a b pipe.
 
Location
baldwin ny
i had that pipe on one of my superjets for a full season i must of welded it back together 5 times. nothing but surf. it makes more power then a b-pipe but not worth dealing with it cracking all the time.
 

Sospikey

Trying to get upside down
Location
Sweden
I did like it. I did spend some time making sure it was aligned well. I'd say (for how mine was set-up) the power was more abrupt when it came on the pipe compared to the b-pipe I run now. Kind of like when you ride a 500 cc 2-stroke dirt bike, aim for the next corner, give it gas and hold on for dear life, hehe! Probably more overall power with a type 4 compared to a b-pipe, imho. I did mod my type 4 as per JSS's recommendations:

http://www.jetskisolutions.com/p76_type_4_8__9_pipe_coupler_kit.html

http://www.jetskisolutions.com/p77_stinger_enlargement_kit.html
 
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Hey someone who know how the water system on a Riva Dry Pipe sets best and get most of its power.

I run with at standart cylinder head. And its a superjet 701. And the cooling to the waterbox is closed off?
 

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Just about any dry pipe will make more power than a b-pipe, durability is an issue, with a few easy garage mods they are easily fixed, jss mod is awesome, make your own couplers out of marine or diesel exaust pipe, t-style clamps, lord mounts from grainger, viton o-rings from grainger. May sound like a lot but all is very cheap, easy to do and will make a dry pipe last for quite sometime, I'm going on season 3 with no issues, new lord mounts every spring just to be safe
 
Location
iowa
I had the Riva stage II dry pipe. I laugh when I read this about keeping them together. I used it for several years beyond its original flawed design. The mounts I had gussets welded on to keep them from breaking. Then the original lord rubber mounts kept breaking, built my own bracket to accommodate larger lord mount from Grainger. Then all the vibration transferred into the silicone coupler. Finally after replacing multiple couplers the pipe broke off inside the manifold. Kept that POS too long and went to buy a Factory pipe just weeks after everyone had sold out and exhaust chamber is no longer available. What I know now about that pipe is I should have injected water in at the manifold near the coupler that maybe would have kept some of the heat down and would have gained some bottom end.
 

just joe

Site Supporter
Location
NorCal
Any auto store like Napa has it. They are thick and strong. Set the pipe up correctly and you don't need it. I learned this first hand, used the same silicone coupler for years after aligning the pipe and replacing O-rings each season.
 

88kawi5fiddy

pew pew lazers!
Location
So Utah
true, dry pipe alignment is key. i found this with my sx dry pipe. it leaked and ran like crap until i finally shimmed the mounts correctly and it ran fine and barely even leaked oil.
 
Just about any dry pipe will make more power than a b-pipe, durability is an issue, with a few easy garage mods they are easily fixed, jss mod is awesome, make your own couplers out of marine or diesel exaust pipe, t-style clamps, lord mounts from grainger, viton o-rings from grainger. May sound like a lot but all is very cheap, easy to do and will make a dry pipe last for quite sometime, I'm going on season 3 with no issues, new lord mounts every spring just to be safe
Do you remember the part # from grainger for the vibration mounts ?
 
Location
hhh
Jetmaniac has the mounts in stock last I checked. I haven't had any issues with the type 4. It's been ridden very hard an no issues yet.
 
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