riva red pipe
- Thread starter duracell
- Start date
scottie mac
X-
The easiest way to add a RIVA Red pipe is to remove the motor from the mounts, slide it forward, install the pipe and water lines, then move them motor back into position and tighten back down. If you don't, getting to the exhaust manifold to chamber bolts is next to impossible. Other than that, when initially putting on the pipe, don't tighten any of the bolts completely until you have both the manifold to chamber and the chamber to head mount bolts all connected. Once you get everything in place, then tighten the mani bolts, followed by the chamber to head bracket bolts. One other thing, when you add the gasket between the manifold and chamber, get some high temp gasket silicone and coat the gasket with it. This will go a long way providing better gasket life.
The RIVA red is a pain in the a$$ to install, but of you prop it right, it makes really good power. Hope this helps.
Scottie
The RIVA red is a pain in the a$$ to install, but of you prop it right, it makes really good power. Hope this helps.
Scottie
jkirkland
jkirkland
- Location
- inverness florida
What is a good prop for the riva red pipe? I have a 95 with mild porting, lightweight riva almuinum flywheel, tdr waterbox, protec rideplate/intake grate, freestyle cone and dual 38 mikunis on a protec intake with ocean pro flame arrestors. The thing is pretty fast probably around low 50's. It has a refurbished sbt stock prop in it now. I have a 4/7 old school skat trak I have been thinking about trying out. I think that is a 14/17. Thanks for any help --Jason-- The riva pipe is a pain in the arse. I had to change the head gasket on my ski at the lake last weekend and it took like 3 hours to get it out because of the pipe and having to get the mount from in between the pipe and the head. I tried to remove the 3 bolts that attach the head to the manifold I got two but I gave up on the third and resorted to a prybar and small hammer.
scottie mac
X-
Yeah, that third bolt is a major b1tch.
My suggestion would be a 11/17 hooker from Impros. The key to the RIVA red is getting the RPM up as quick as possible. It makes the most power in the upper rpms. We use the hookers in our spec skis and they run low 50s with no porting. It was about the best improvement other than an exhaust you will ever get.
Scottie
My suggestion would be a 11/17 hooker from Impros. The key to the RIVA red is getting the RPM up as quick as possible. It makes the most power in the upper rpms. We use the hookers in our spec skis and they run low 50s with no porting. It was about the best improvement other than an exhaust you will ever get.
Scottie
scottie mac
X-
Are you running dual cooling? If not, you should.
Basically, two lines in to the manifold (one on top, one on bottom). If you are running Two lines out of the head, one goes off the side straight, the other T's to the stinger and off the side of the ski. You might also want to run a jetworks flow control to the line that goes to the stinger.
If you are only running one of the head, that one would T to the stinger and off the side.
Hope this helps,
Scottie
Basically, two lines in to the manifold (one on top, one on bottom). If you are running Two lines out of the head, one goes off the side straight, the other T's to the stinger and off the side of the ski. You might also want to run a jetworks flow control to the line that goes to the stinger.
If you are only running one of the head, that one would T to the stinger and off the side.
Hope this helps,
Scottie
ItsRixter
SoCal Wav Jumping shiznit
- Location
- Sunny Diego
I have installed and re-installed several Riva Red pipes. The few tricks I have learned do not require moving the motor.
1) You need a 12mm wrench that is cut or get a 12mm crows foot wrench (I bought one at sears). 2) Buy the stud kit from Riva. This replaces the bolts that eventually break. 3) Get galvanized washers to shimm the pipe to exhaust bracket.
Follow the basic steps and install the manifold. the two inside bolts need to be threaded in place as much as possible. Then bolt it in. For the tough inside bolts use the cut 12 mm wrench or crow's foot. Place the wrench or crows foot on the bolt and grab and 3/8 drive socket extension and tap it to turn/tighten the bolts. It takes some patience.
Connect the cooling line. Then with the stud bolts in the manifold place the pipe in. Tighten the manifold to the pipe. Then use the washers to shimm the top part of the pipe to the exhaust bracket.
I jump waves in the surf and the red pipe install has not yet failed after 4 years.
1) You need a 12mm wrench that is cut or get a 12mm crows foot wrench (I bought one at sears). 2) Buy the stud kit from Riva. This replaces the bolts that eventually break. 3) Get galvanized washers to shimm the pipe to exhaust bracket.
Follow the basic steps and install the manifold. the two inside bolts need to be threaded in place as much as possible. Then bolt it in. For the tough inside bolts use the cut 12 mm wrench or crow's foot. Place the wrench or crows foot on the bolt and grab and 3/8 drive socket extension and tap it to turn/tighten the bolts. It takes some patience.
Connect the cooling line. Then with the stud bolts in the manifold place the pipe in. Tighten the manifold to the pipe. Then use the washers to shimm the top part of the pipe to the exhaust bracket.
I jump waves in the surf and the red pipe install has not yet failed after 4 years.
SoCal_WaveBlaster
back from the dead
- Location
- SOMD
the easiest way for me is to completely remove the engine from the ski
cattledog
EH TEAM RACING
- Location
- toronto canada
would a 13/18 prop work ok with a red pipe on blaster with stock motor just a milled head and msd enhancer
ItsRixter
SoCal Wav Jumping shiznit
- Location
- Sunny Diego
Yes. That's basically my setup...bullet proof. Very snappy bottom end and above average top end. Be sure to get the stud kit for the pipe (riva still sells them) and an intake grate.
Last edited:
- Location
- fairview, PA.
red pipe
Hello , I have this red pipe pic attached , Do you know what this middle inlet is for on the middle large chamber. It does have a pin hole like the stinger has. I know how to route the water lines to the stinger and all, but do not know how to route this middle inlet. It looks like it might be for water injection or something. I guess I could just T it from the head front pisser...
Hello , I have this red pipe pic attached , Do you know what this middle inlet is for on the middle large chamber. It does have a pin hole like the stinger has. I know how to route the water lines to the stinger and all, but do not know how to route this middle inlet. It looks like it might be for water injection or something. I guess I could just T it from the head front pisser...
Attachments
SoCal_WaveBlaster
back from the dead
- Location
- SOMD
that looks nothing like my blaster pipe...what it for?
feartheride
feartheride
- Location
- St.Catharines,On.Canada
hey scottie mac how is the perfomance of a coffmans pipe. I have a new one I never installed on my blaster because it doesn't get used much.
maybe I should get it out this year
maybe I should get it out this year
scottie mac
X-
The Coffman makes good power, but it is just like a RIVA, you have to bend the prop low on the leading edge to get it to rev quick. If you run it, get yourself a 9/16 hooker prop. This is a little different bend than Dave usually offers, but it will allow the motor to rev quick to get to the hp the coffman's offers.
Scottie
Scottie
- Location
- Richlandtown, PA
Two questions to this old thread:
Any recommendations for props for a bone stock 701 with the Riva Red?
When Scottie says dual cooling lines, one at the top, one at the bottom, does he mean tap a 2nd elbow into the manifold at the exhaust port of the PTO cylinder on the top side? Or the more standard way, tapping an 2nd elbow on the bottom side of the manifold near the mag?
Any recommendations for props for a bone stock 701 with the Riva Red?
When Scottie says dual cooling lines, one at the top, one at the bottom, does he mean tap a 2nd elbow into the manifold at the exhaust port of the PTO cylinder on the top side? Or the more standard way, tapping an 2nd elbow on the bottom side of the manifold near the mag?
10/16 or 11/17 solas yq by impros
9/15 or 10/16 hooker. Slightly slower than solas
No idea on Scotts recommendation. Dual cooling would be one into exhaust manifold on the motor and one into pipe header. Cylinder out and over board. Pipe out -t- for stinger and over
I only ran 1 cooling on my red. No problem. Like Scott says prop it to spin.
9/15 or 10/16 hooker. Slightly slower than solas
No idea on Scotts recommendation. Dual cooling would be one into exhaust manifold on the motor and one into pipe header. Cylinder out and over board. Pipe out -t- for stinger and over
I only ran 1 cooling on my red. No problem. Like Scott says prop it to spin.
- Location
- Richlandtown, PA
Cool, thanks for the recommendation. Of the two pitches:
10/16 or 11/17
9/15 of 10/16
Which provides better low end grunt, and which is better for top end? With the current setup (guessing stock), the blaster feels weak out of the hole compared to a superjet with a factory pipe + aftermarket prop (don't know pitch) but everything similar. Don't know if this is due to propping or due to weight difference between the two.
Thanks,
Paul
10/16 or 11/17
9/15 of 10/16
Which provides better low end grunt, and which is better for top end? With the current setup (guessing stock), the blaster feels weak out of the hole compared to a superjet with a factory pipe + aftermarket prop (don't know pitch) but everything similar. Don't know if this is due to propping or due to weight difference between the two.
Thanks,
Paul
- Location
- kingsburg cali
Hey did you ever get this pipe mounted and going i bought the same pipe for one of my skis but it came with no lord mounts or brackets or hardware im just trying to get some pick or something for insalling on my motor thanks