- Location
- Michigan
RN Superjet Colander Build
- Thread starter charlevoixboy
- Start date
- Location
- Michigan
Also I’m tossing the idea around to reuse the pump dump exhaust outlet the the 760 came with. I’m wondering if it’d help dampen some of the exhaust noise and allow a smaller / lighter waterbox to be used. Looks like it’d fit okay, although pump clearance may be a tad tight. Just an idea! Idk if it’d help or hurt anything. It would also make a sweet side exit manifold...
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You riding the Great Lakes? The swells get pretty big there right? I know surf skis get more reinforcement and I was under the impression there are surf conditions sometimes there.
- Location
- Michigan
Yeah I ride Lake Michigan, and it can get pretty rough. I want to learn barrel rolls and don’t want to end up smashing the ski to pieces, but I also don’t want a tank haha
I see most people laying up 17oz biax on the sides and bottom but I’ve also read about 2 layers of 12 oz. seems a tad excessive but who knows lol I’ll do some more reading I guess
I see most people laying up 17oz biax on the sides and bottom but I’ve also read about 2 layers of 12 oz. seems a tad excessive but who knows lol I’ll do some more reading I guess
- Location
- Michigan
Got the engine bay all layer up with 1 layer of 1708 (holy resin hog!) stuff sucks to get the bubbles out of because of how much memory the glass has. I also got the 1708 with the random strand backing and that seems to really eat up resin. I think it’s all wet out though, we’ll see as it sets up. I ordered 1208 which will be used to do the nose and some twill for under the handpole area and tray to conform a little better before laying 1708. This hull was so smashed when I got it I’m going to use a little more glass than I’d like to make up for the cracks everywhere. Hope it works out
1708 has a lot of utility but it does have its limits. I have found pre cutting the pieces and then laying them in the place where you will be glassing for a few hours helps the biax relax to the new shape.
The other extremely helpful technique is to wet out the biax completely on a flat surface covered in plastic or something. Wet out where you are applying the glass as well. Wait about 30 minutes for it to start gelling up a tiny bit and then apply the biax to the surface. It sort of acts as contact cement as well as conforming a bit better.
Sounds like you are getting this hull squared away!
The other extremely helpful technique is to wet out the biax completely on a flat surface covered in plastic or something. Wet out where you are applying the glass as well. Wait about 30 minutes for it to start gelling up a tiny bit and then apply the biax to the surface. It sort of acts as contact cement as well as conforming a bit better.
Sounds like you are getting this hull squared away!
- Location
- Michigan
I’ve had good luck with painting the surface with resin first, then coating the backside of the glass before laying it down and adding more resin. Seems to help hold it in place. The random strand really absorbs a lot of resin though
- Location
- California
What worked best for me on my RN project was to have a folding table close to the ski cloverd in painters plastic. I would cut all my pieces and stack them in order of install. I would then paint a very thin layer of resin on the hull. Then lay my first layer of 1708 on the table and use a Bondo spreader to force the resin around and into the 1708, no brush at all. Then flip the piece over and pushing down with the Bondo spreader scrape off any excess resin and put it back into the resin cup. Now you can see any dry spots and add a little more resin and scrape off any excess. I would then take the glass sheet and put it in the hull and smooth it by hand then roll it with a fiberglass roller.
This technique with the Bondo spreader insures that the 1708 sheet is completely wetted out but there is no excess resin like I have found happens with brushing it on.
This technique with the Bondo spreader insures that the 1708 sheet is completely wetted out but there is no excess resin like I have found happens with brushing it on.
- Location
- Michigan
The bondo spreaders work really well, and clean off easy once the resin dries. In the future I may try to fully wet them out before so I don’t end up with pooling. Sometimes I can’t get rid of the resin pools so I just sprinkle some chopped fiberglass into them and let it get absorbed. Better to get some bonus strength out of it I guess!
- Location
- Michigan
I’ve used about 1.5 gallons of resin so far on the superjet, and I’m totally perplexed how other members have reinforced with 1708 front and rear on only 3 quarts with laying up wet??? If I squeegee the glass any harder I get dry spots, and I’m not getting resin pools. I’ve used 4 yards of 1708, a yard of 1208, 2 yards of some 4oz, and 3 quarts of micro balloons over the 1.5 gallons. Still super confused but oh well, let the glassing continue.
- Location
- Michigan
Well reading online it says 1 gallon of resin will wet out 27sq/ft of 1708 biax with the random strand backing, and one yard of 50” wide material is about 12 square feet per yard. So according to that I should be able to wet out 3.375 yards of biax on 1.5 gallons (these are approx numbers for worst case boat layup) so that sounds a lot more in line with what I’m seeing with my build. I’m sure with bagging it’d be way lower, but with a roller and squeegee that’s the best I can do and I’m gunna roll with it. Hoping to keep it under 2 gallons for the hull reinforcement, fixing the holes in the nose and sides, and the entire pump tunnel project. Fingers crossed
- Location
- Michigan
Had some 1-1/8” bars kicking around so I bought some riser blocks off eBay for $12 and threw my turnplate in the mill. Turned out okay
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Nice going on the turn plate, it looks good for 15 bucks.
About the resin, I am having similar experiences. So far I am getting about 3-4 yards of 50" 1708 wetted out per gallon (not including cabosil mix). Biax without cloth I have noticed sucks up a lot less resin per thickness since I have been messing with that. I think CSM soaks up about 50% more resin than the same thickness in cloth, partially why its so good for waterproofing I imagine.
I think for future projects I will be using 17oz biax without matting for most stuff. I have no issue with the 1708 and it has its place for sure but I think for many things two layers of normal biax is stronger and lighter than one layer of 1708 with the matt backer, definitely lays up better.
About the resin, I am having similar experiences. So far I am getting about 3-4 yards of 50" 1708 wetted out per gallon (not including cabosil mix). Biax without cloth I have noticed sucks up a lot less resin per thickness since I have been messing with that. I think CSM soaks up about 50% more resin than the same thickness in cloth, partially why its so good for waterproofing I imagine.
I think for future projects I will be using 17oz biax without matting for most stuff. I have no issue with the 1708 and it has its place for sure but I think for many things two layers of normal biax is stronger and lighter than one layer of 1708 with the matt backer, definitely lays up better.
- Location
- Michigan
I agree, I bought some 1208 with the chopped backing and it’s a resin hog too. It’s rock solid, but soaks a ton of resin. Just thought I’d mention it if anyone was cruising the thread and wondered how much resin / cloth they’d need to reinforce. I’ve got both sides reinforced with 1 layer of 1708 and 1 layer of 1208, and the bottom of the engine bay done with 1 layer of 1708. The rear was all done with 1 layer of 1708.
Next to do is the pole bracket area, going for 2-3 layers of 1208 around there, and probably a layer of 1708 up in the nose. Then it’s tray time and sand / paint
Next to do is the pole bracket area, going for 2-3 layers of 1208 around there, and probably a layer of 1708 up in the nose. Then it’s tray time and sand / paint
- Location
- Michigan
- Location
- Michigan
Picked up a UMI pole setup and turned some bushings to accept the stock rn turnplate. I’ll be zipping the ends off the bars (they were off a snowmobile) so I can get the controls actually on the bars. In my mind the hooks looked like a good idea for carving, but mocking them up it looks like they’d really get in the way. Good news is the bars were free so nothing a saw can’t fix
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- Location
- Michigan
Well unwilling to admit defeat, slapped the oem throttle in the mill to clearance it, and got it around the bend in the bars. eBay $5 grips finished it off. We’ll see how annoying the hooks are before I break out the saw!
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- Location
- Michigan
- Location
- Michigan
Cheapness kicked in again so instead of buying a rn pole bolt I picked up a Kawasaki Ninja ex500 swingarm bolt off eBay for $5 and a cheapo eBay m14x1.5 die for another $5. Threaded another inch or so on the bolt, cut off the excess and we’re in business! Every used bolt I found was all salty/stripped and everyone wanted $40 for it and that’s stupid. The kawi one is steel not ss FYI so salty areas beware or use anti seize. The kawi nut is a nice addition so you don’t strip out the pole bracket
