New Rocker NOSE kits ! (RN,SN, & WB)

[djraider700]

The front cutoff from my ski weighed 10lbs! Heavier than I thought.

 

[Byeai]

same with mine

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[DAG]

PFP will fit on the SN kit.

 

[stefan]

The front cutoff from my ski weighed 10lbs! Heavier than I thought.

what does the new peice weigh ?

 

[djraider700]

almost nothing. how much glass/resin you use will determine how much the end result will weigh.

 

[CD155MX]

almost nothing. how much glass/resin you use will determine how much the end result will weigh.

So I guess the question is, how much is necessary to make it strong enough....

 

[DAG]

So I guess the question is, how much is necessary to make it strong enough....

do you realize that's a question no one can answer.... If weight was a concern you wouldn't be modifying a stock hull anyways. I was just planing on a few layers of biax building it up to the same thickness as the cutaway

 

[nwcitizen]

Sorry if this was already answered and I missed it, but with the SN kit which looks killer btw.. does the stock water box and tank fit with some work or do I need to look at aftermarket?

 

[CD155MX]

do you realize that's a question no one can answer.... If weight was a concern you wouldn't be modifying a stock hull anyways. I was just planing on a few layers of biax building it up to the same thickness as the cutaway

You've got a good point. I was just curious. I think the same thickness thing seems like a logical amount of reinforcement.

 

[KTM434]

Depends where you ride and how you ride too. If you may have some under rotated backflips in surf then you'll need a lot of reinforcement. Flatwater leave it thin

 

[ThatGuy]

Pics not working in 1st post.

 

[CarterB]

thanks ill fix that. 2 layers of biax and epoxy is stronger than stock SMC garbage at 3/8" thick !!!! ive tested this well in the surf I would suggest that you use about 3-4 layers biax with epoxy during install and you will drop 5.5 lbs overall on the RN. On the SN you will drop even more since you will be cutting some of the top off too. The waveblaster drops 9lbs!

Stock waterbox and tank fit fine.

 

[bobbyd]

Would any of thies kits work on a 550 hull? I know there only for rn , sn and blaster but would the sn one work on a 550 u think?

 

[CarterB]

yes i mocked up a RN one with the sides cut off and its pretty close. i could lay you one up a little thin too so you can tweak it a little if needed

 

[Rompn]

Thanks to Carter's patience and info, I'm in the middle of building one for my ocean 550. Foam is in and the nose is cut as of now. I don't plan to sell molds like Carter is but would be happy to post some pics for reference.

 

[CarterB]

sweet! post up pics 550s are a blast to ride in the surf and always will be. sometimes its more fun to shred a stock old ski and see how well you can manuever it in tricky surf since its all based on rider input and balance and not motor or pump capabilities

 

[Rompn]

sweet! post up pics 550s are a blast to ride in the surf and always will be. sometimes its more fun to shred a stock old ski and see how well you can manuever it in tricky surf since its all based on rider input and balance and not motor or pump capabilities

Completley agree and that's why I'm upgrading my ocean ski with a few mods including the rockered front. This ski is strictly for surf and I just had all the machine work done on the engine. It's running on 110 and has a handful of very rare parts for both the engine and pump. Everything is 550 based so as to keep it somewhat a 550 ski. Build thread coming soon. Here's some teaser photos of the rocker:

The process is straight forward once Carter explained the steps. The most difficult part is attempting to get the cut straight since there aren't many exact reference points to measure from. I will probably need to do some trimming to line everything up perfect but not bad for the first time.
The green hue you see on the inside of the old nose is a mold release that Carter recommended I spray on before foaming. Stuff worked great and the nose popped right off without much effort.
The way I cut the nose, the gas tank will sit in its original spot and flat just like it was previously and the only mod I may need to do is in the waterbox area once I get the foam shaped how I want it. In the photos it is just a foam mold of the stock fiberglass that was there. No shaping has occurred yet as I'm looking at photos and drawing how I want to do it.
Thanks again Carter, so far, so good.

 

[CarterB]

looks great! as for shaping that hunk of foam there are many methods but dont be afraid to cut too much as you can always just mix up more foam and apply it with a paint brush real evenly to just build up where you went to far. an electric hot wire or even a long blade on a sawzall can do the initial eyeball cuts. then a belt sander or DA with various grits will allow shaping at a slower pace.

 

[Rompn]

looks great! as for shaping that hunk of foam there are many methods but dont be afraid to cut too much as you can always just mix up more foam and apply it with a paint brush real evenly to just build up where you went to far. an electric hot wire or even a long blade on a sawzall can do the initial eyeball cuts. then a belt sander or DA with various grits will allow shaping at a slower pace.

Sounds good, thanks. Curious how you lay out your cuts Carter. On some of the other photos in this thread, I see you have angles layed on the bottom instead of a straight across cut like mine is. Any reasoning for that? Also, how do you get solid reference points since there are no real edges to measure from. Everything has a slight round to it which makes it more of a strategic guess.

 

[CarterB]

my measurements are based from the pump shoe forward. cutting the center a little farther back is just to get the rocker started earlier for the best flow and transistion. also allows a couple inserts in the engine bay to be kept (battery)