Other Rolling ski stand/lift?

Peter123

C-Note
Location
Houston, TX
I was looking for an adjustable ski stand that would allow me to change the height while I'm working on it and allow me to roll it around. I'd like to be able to roll the ski out of the garage to the trailer so I could just slide it on by myself.

Initially, I was thinking I'd fabricate something myself, but then saw this. I'm thinking if I added bunks and extended the handle and hydrolics pedals, it would probably work pretty good. My only concern would be the stability when it was raised high. I would store the ski on it lowered all the way.

Thoughts, criticisims, suggestions?

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200365531_200365531#

Northern Industrial Hydraulic Table Cart — 660Lb. Capacity

$169.99

143646_lg.jpg
 
Seems like an amazing solution to so many problems. Just went to order one for the winter projects.....

"Shipping Method Shipping Delivery Time CANADA UPS TRUCK $148.90"


Sigh, nothing like paying the same price for shipping as the product.
 

QuickMick

API 1104 AWS CWI
Site Supporter
I was looking for an adjustable ski stand that would allow me to change the height while I'm working on it and allow me to roll it around. I'd like to be able to roll the ski out of the garage to the trailer so I could just slide it on by myself.

Initially, I was thinking I'd fabricate something myself, but then saw this. I'm thinking if I added bunks and extended the handle and hydrolics pedals, it would probably work pretty good. My only concern would be the stability when it was raised high. I would store the ski on it lowered all the way.

Thoughts, criticisims, suggestions?

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200365531_200365531#

Northern Industrial Hydraulic Table Cart — 660Lb. Capacity

$169.99

143646_lg.jpg

Yea right.
 

Peter123

C-Note
Location
Houston, TX
Yea right.

What's so difficult about it?

I was planning to take angle iron and make two 30" x 20" rectangular boxes. I was then going to weld steel poles into the "bottom" rectangle in the corners facing up and then poles with a slightly smaller OD than the "bottom" poles's ID in the "top" corners. I was going to weld in a steel plate about 8" wide in the center of the top and bottom for both structural support as well as attaching a scissor jack that would actually do the lifting. I would drill holes every 3" through the vertical poles so that I could put pins in to hold the load (might not be necessary, but felt it wouldn't hurt). Then I was going to connect caster wheels to the bottom and bunks on the top.

My only real concern was my ablity to have the bottom set of poles absolutely vertical so they wouldn't bind going up or down. I spoke to my brother who welds quite a bit, and he assured me he could do it. Once the bottom poles were properly welded in position, I would drop the upper poles in and then weld them to the upper frame so that they would be properly alligned and not bind.

The angle iron would all be cut with a chop saw at 45 degrees and everything else is just 90 degree cuts.

Is there something I'm missing that would make this so difficult?
 
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Mark44

Katie's Boss
Location
100% one place
Those carts from Northern are junk we have purchased quite a few for our shop and they leak or just don't work from the get go. It was a real pain in the azz.
 

QuickMick

API 1104 AWS CWI
Site Supporter
What's so difficult about it?

I was planning to take angle iron and make two 30" x 20" rectangular boxes. I was then going to weld steel poles into the "bottom" rectangle in the corners facing up and then poles with a slightly smaller OD than the "bottom" poles's ID in the "top" corners. I was going to weld in a steel plate about 8" wide in the center of the top and bottom for both structural support as well as attaching a scissor jack that would actually do the lifting. I would drill holes every 3" through the vertical poles so that I could put pins in to hold the load (might not be necessary, but felt it wouldn't hurt). Then I was going to connect caster wheels to the bottom and bunks on the top.

My only real concern was my ablity to have the bottom set of poles absolutely vertical so they wouldn't bind going up or down. I spoke to my brother who welds quite a bit, and he assured me he could do it. Once the bottom poles were properly welded in position, I would drop the upper poles in and then weld them to the upper frame so that they would be properly alligned and not bind.

The angle iron would all be cut with a chop saw at 45 degrees and everything else is just 90 degree cuts.

Is there something I'm missing that would make this so difficult?

Good god man pay the 169 + tax and take it home. Making something when you can buy it that cheap is doing it the wrong way. Buy it and modify it, let me know if I need to bring any metal home from work for you. I can have the guys pre cut it to lengths.

Oh wait I just read where you would have your brother do the welding, good choice. BTW I have a HD if you want it.
 

Peter123

C-Note
Location
Houston, TX
Yeah, I need to grab that HD from you. I may be down in your area tomorrow; will you be going directly home from work?

I'm also anxious to see how the house is coming.
 
Here's some pictures of what i did. I got mine at harbor freight tool, and cut off the stock wheels and added big air filled tires. it works awsome no problems with leaks so far. 123photo.jpg987photo.jpg
 
Location
NorCal
I built this for $50, Wood Wheels and screws pretty simple...Im going to add another 2x4 on one side cross bracing it all together to make it much stronger and keep it from getting out of square.
IMAG0167.jpg
 

Peter123

C-Note
Location
Houston, TX
Here's some pictures of what i did. I got mine at harbor freight tool, and cut off the stock wheels and added big air filled tires. it works awsome no problems with leaks so far.

Hmmm, that one is actually cheaper than the one at Northern Tool.

I really like the wheel swap you did. Great idea.

I built this for $50, Wood Wheels and screws pretty simple...Im going to add another 2x4 on one side cross bracing it all together to make it much stronger and keep it from getting out of square.

I really want something that I can raise and lower. Not that much, but even having 10" to 14" can make a real difference while wrenching or loading and unloading.
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
I think one of my stands are at 30". Yes, this is taller than your trailer, but it is nothing to pull the ski up on by yourself. Perfect height for wrenching. Plus if you want to throw the ski in the back of a truck, your already close in height.

All you need is some box tubing, 2x4's and casters.
 
Location
NorCal
I really want something that I can raise and lower. Not that much, but even having 10" to 14" can make a real difference while wrenching or loading and unloading.

Yeah I built mine 31" in height so I can roll it to my tailgate and pull it into my truck bed so I can take it to the lake myself. When leaving the lake I back my truck up where my tailgate is close to the water lift the front of the ski up and set it on tailgate start the ski up and throttle it up into the bed far enough where it stays then pull it the rest of the way. WHen I get home i drag it back onto my stand which is a little tricky since im usually worn out and tired but I manage.
 
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