S/S switch test

[faceplant2]

1994 701 engine. Had an electrical problem last year and put in a new S/S switch . Turned out that the old S/S switch was good all along . So now I have two ( I would assume are good) S/S switches. When I hit the switch , nothing at all . No clicks or anything . Put new solenoid plus positive and negative cables in and still nothing. Is there a way to check S/S switch with a test light ? I am not really a multi meter person . Multi meters just go right over my head . So again. Is there a way to test with a test light ?

 

[Carrera911]

1994 701 engine. Had an electrical problem last year and put in a new S/S switch . Turned out that the old S/S switch was good all along . So now I have two ( I would assume are good) S/S switches. When I hit the switch , nothing at all . No clicks or anything . Put new solenoid plus positive and negative cables in and still nothing. Is there a way to check S/S switch with a test light ? I am not really a multi meter person . Multi meters just go right over my head . So again. Is there a way to test with a test light ?

I’m going through this right now actually. The red / brown pair of wires is the start circuit and the other pair is the stop. You can use a test light to check for power at that red wire on the ebox side. Not much else I’m aware of. Multi meters are easy though. Set it to ohms or connection test mode. Touch the leads together and it should go near 0. Then any two things you touch the meter to it will let you know if it has a good connection. Do this with the start button wires and check the start switch makes a good connection with itself when it is pushed. Pretty sure the lanyard has to be in as well for the start switch to engage for that test. You can also have the stop harness connected, lanyard in and jumper the red / black start wires coming from the ebox and the engine should turn over then.


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[Jr.]

Before you guys give yourselves too much fits. The fuse holder is a known problem area. Its easy enough to simply bypass it, then proceed with your tests. If its found bad? I dont advise running without the fuse long term, as its a safety feature and should be maintained. I have found more of these that were bad than you can count? Especially if water has ever been present in the Ebox. The next item would be the Solenoid itself, OEM are best! Make sure its grounded correctly. Last item would be ground from Ebox to stator. This can be easily tested with a aux jumper ground from Ebox case to Engine or battery ground.

Ski ya, Paul

 

[faceplant2]

Jr - you are like a godsend to me !! It was the fuse holder that was the problem . Since I was getting power to it and fuse was good (even changed it anyhow) , I would never have figured that to be the problem. Thank you so much !! Only want to run ski for two days . Going to try to run up to town today but not sure if time allocates it . If I can't get there, what are the potential problems with running without ?

 

[Jr.]

Glad it was a simple find. Like I stated, its a safety feature. If power goes to a dead short, it can burn up the entire harness. At worst case, if it arcs ? And gas fumes are present....... you see where I'm going!
Its best to simply replace. Most boating stores have universal fuse holders that would work. Just make sure you run correct amp fuse. Hope you enjoy your weekend!

Ski ya, Paul