Other Sanding discs that actually stick!!!!

[motoman3000]

Im new to working with composites and air tools. What brand of sanding discs you guys use that have a good amount of tack? I picked up a pack at HD and they fly right off! ty just like everything else they sell! Although the small pack I previously got at HF stuck on ok, it can be better I hope.

 

[Vumad]

You are using the wrong stuff. You need twist lock sanding discs.

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/...b33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_12406.jpg

Click the link. It's 1200x1200 so I'm not going to embed it here.

Used sticky sanding disc for 5-6" pads. I use sticky for my 6" DA. For my angle grinder, where I use 2" and 3" discs, I use twist lock. Sticky wont work for that kind of RPM and surface area. They also make velcro versions. I don't prefer the velcro.

 

[Matt_E]

And for the love of god, don't buy stickies from Harbor Freight.

 

[motoman3000]

ahh, the twist n lock is it. my only tool as of now is the dual action, so stick was my only option. Picking up a 25 gal comp. off CL tomorrow, so ill be hitting HF for that mini sander and staying outta the sticky pad aisle!

 

[Matt_E]

Be aware that a 25 gal tank compressor probably does not have the power to run a sander, especially a HF sander.
You probably need 6-7 scfm minimum to run that.

 

[Vumad]

I buy 6" sanding pads from harbor freight and they work fine. They may not last as long as higher quality stuff but they last me a while. There's 50 in a box for like $10. It's not a big deal.

Harbor freight does sell a 2" dual action sander. I didn't buy it. It might use sticky pads but I'm not sure. i have the angle grinder, same one in the pic I linked. I use HF 2" and 3" pads with the discs they sell. They work ok as well. I tried sticky on them but it didn't work, that's before I found out about twist lock.

Make sure that compressor you are buying is going to meet your needs. I brother has a newer 5peak HP 120v 30 gallon oil-less compressor. It's stupid slow and can't keep up with my DA, about 1-2 min of use before I have to completely stop. I have a 20ga 5hp belt driven 220v craftsman compressor that is amazing. It can refill the tank faster than I can use it. It sits at 150psi, when it gets to 120psi, the motor kicks on, and it takes about 5 min of constant use to drain to 100 psi, and never gets below that. I can run continuous.

Peak HP, tank size, etc, any one factor can't judge the performance of a compressor. A big tank doesn't mean it'd going to run that tool for extended periods. Make sure you get something that can crank out some serious power to get that tank full again. You have a 25ga tank and a weak motor and you will quickly find that 25ga isn't very much.

Oh, lastly, if you are having problems with pads sticking, clean the disc with acetone and let it dry before you put the pad on. You should not have any issues with the HF 6" DA and HF pads. However, you are not going to get a 80 grit sticky pad to stay on a angle grinder turning 16,000 RPM. You might be able to get a 180 grit sticky pad to stay on a 2" DA since it turns as a slightly lower RPM, but otherwise, you need twistlock, and that has nothing to do with HF.

 

[Matt_E]

Oil less compressors shouldn't be bought by anyone. They are noisy as hell and suck.

If you want decent performance, don't consider anything less than 240 split phase or better 480 3 phase.
Peak HP numbers are marketing bullchit, as Vumad alludes to. They aren't meaningless, but they aren't exactly honest marketing either.

Once you're past the voltage decision hurdle, pay attention to airflow at 90 psi. Don't get anything less than 5 if you want to use tools. If you want to use every tool out there, including cheap sanders, you want 10. For painting with HvLP guns and sandblasting, 15-20.

 

[Vumad]

Oil less compressors shouldn't be bought by anyone. They are noisy as hell and suck.

If you want decent performance, don't consider anything less than 240 split phase or better 480 3 phase.
Peak HP numbers are marketing bullchit, as Vumad alludes to. They aren't meaningless, but they aren't exactly honest marketing either.

Once you're past the voltage decision hurdle, pay attention to airflow at 90 psi. Don't get anything less than 5 if you want to use tools. If you want to use every tool out there, including cheap sanders, you want 10. For painting with HvLP guns and sandblasting, 15-20.

Good info. I wish I knew what I had. I traded my 110v 10ga compressor on this monster. I have to unplug my dryer to run it. I got the better end of the deal, but the compressor I traded was super quiet and 110 so the new owner is very happy. I couldn't do the things I do now w/o this thing. I have probably put 20 hours on my grinders in the last few months. Imagine if I didn't have a compressor that could run non-stop. I wouldn't be getting anything done.

I do have a 1hp 3ga oil-less compressor in my camping trailer. It's very good for what it is for. Filling flat tires and having air to clean the carbs on the quads, etc. For actual work tho, it sucks. They have their uses when you need something portable, but for shop use, worthless I agree.

 

[motoman3000]

Its a craftsman 4hp 25 gal 120v single phase. Says it puts out 7scfm @90psi. paying $150. I think it will suit me fine for the little bit of work i'll need it for. I can see where it might hold back the guy who wants to get things done efficiently, thats not me. At least not with my ski build. I don't mind taking breaks and working on something else. As for the noise, my 2nd floor tenant can turn his stereo up if he's bothered

 

[smdubs]

I'm I'm the market now. How does a three cylinder single stage compare to a v cylinder two stage? I'm looking at the two from craftsman that are 80 gallon around a grand. The scfms are surprisingly close

 

[OCD Solutions]

Stay away from the cheap stuff like craftsman. A compressor is something that will come in handy for the rest of your life so don't skimp out. Buy once and buy right. There are only a few names in compressors I trust, Speedaire, Atlas Copco and Ingersoll Rand

I just turned 39 and the 2HP Speedaire Cast Iron series compressor that my father bought the year before I was born is still running strong out in my garage. He was a general contractor for 30 years and lugged this thing around to every site. I can't even begin to describe the abuse this thing has taken over the years, by his hand and mine. It came to me with a 1hp motor with bad bearings. I found the original 2HP motor on his shelf, replaced the seized bearings and have been running it ever since.

I currently don't have the need for a larger capacity compressor but if I did, I would be getting a Type 30 Ingersoll Rand 7.5HP, 2-stage 60gal compressor (model #2475N7.5V). It comes as 240V single phase and will run everything you need while still working on 95% of all residential service panels without issue or upgrades. One of these units lives across the street in my father in laws garage. He purchased it when he retired and started an in-house frame off restoration of a 69 Mustang fast back. It's handled everything from sanding and grinding to the media blaster without faltering once. It's probably overkill but it's one sweet unit with zero limitations.

 

[davy87nj]

Not to thread jack, but since we are on a compressor topic. I have a 60 gal campbell hausfeld compressor. I have been useing the hell out of it sanding on my SN. I noticed out of the crank case vent Im having oil sort of mist out. Also its slower on start up now. Electrical is fine and the compressor seems to pick up after a little lugging and run fine. Am I looking at excessive blow by. It was a cheaper compressor thats for sure, but has low useage until recently.

 

[tomski]

The 3M brand roloc and hookit systems really work great.

 

[Scorn800]

I sell air compressors and auto equipment for a living. Never buy anything direct drive and never listen to HP and cfm ratings on small home units. Your best off finding something 2 stage so you get 175psi out of it. If you plan on heavy sanding and painting go 220v and use 30amp breaker. IR has went down hill in the past 10 years.
We are a Champion dealer, which is made here in the US. They make the Speedaire line for Grainger. Quincy and Curtis are also very good. You better off finding good older used comprrsor than buying some junky china unit from a chain store.

 

[Scorn800]

Not to thread jack, but since we are on a compressor topic. I have a 60 gal campbell hausfeld compressor. I have been useing the hell out of it sanding on my SN. I noticed out of the crank case vent Im having oil sort of mist out. Also its slower on start up now. Electrical is fine and the compressor seems to pick up after a little lugging and run fine. Am I looking at excessive blow by. It was a cheaper compressor thats for sure, but has low useage until recently.

Your check valve may be starting to leak back causing crankcase pressure which also cause more load during start up. Your check valve should be a intank style which is located in the tank at the bottom of the pipe going from the head down to the tank. Never remove it with air in tank.

 

[motoman3000]

Not to thread jack, but since we are on a compressor topic.

I think I got some good info, ur from jersey, use it as you may

 

[Sparkplug]

You can get a angle grinder, a backing pad, and 4.5 inch sanding disks for it. It will do much better at resin removal, and general prep for glasswork than a da. Much cheaper also, and you dont have to deal with the airflow issues most have.

A quailty compressor is a godsend. You dont need 3 phase though to have good air. And oilless compressors have their place. As has been said, max psi, and CFM at 90 is whats important, as most air tools require 90 PSI to operate correctly.

I personally have a speedaire 80 gallon, 5 horse, 2 stage, 175 psi max, 17.5 cmf at 90 Monster of a compressor, its single phase 240v, and puts out more air than I could ever use. And I use ALOT of air tools.

edit; every single one of Harbor Freights, grinding, and sanding materials is complete and total garbage. Your wasting more money and time going there. A single quality sanding disk will out last an entire one of their 4 and 5 packs.

 

[Vumad]

My DA ($20), angle grinder ($14), extended die grinder ($15) are all from harbor freight. The sheet metal / reciprocating saw was just but these others are still running strong. My Husky dire grinder ($30) broke faster than my Harbor freight stuff. I use these tools a lot and they have taken some abuse. I don't have a good water separator so they take a beating. It's easier to say buy better stuff when you have money. I will someday buy some more tools of a better quality, but for now I am just buying what I need when I need it just to get bi. It we were all rich we'd just go out and buy everything of top quality as soon even before we need it. However that is not an option. For the price of one Craftsman tool, I have purchased every tool I need for the jobs I am doing, and Craftsman isn't very good tool either. My dad has a professional grade impact, $300. I could have that same impact, and I would be awesome at taking off tires, but I wouldn't have any other tools to do other jobs.

Compared to the good stuff, HF is junk. If you can afford better, you should buy better. But to buy something you can't afford, or to buy one really nice tool when you need 3 different tools, isn't a good idea. It's more valuable to have the right tool than the best quality tool. If I ask you for a screw driver and you hand me the worlds greatest locking plyers, we'll get the job done, but we'll be replacing a lot of damaged screws.

 

[Sparkplug]

If you buy a cheap tool, your happy when you buy it and sad everytime you use it.

A quality tool your sad when you buy it, and happy everytime you use it.

From someone who makes their money off tools, Ive learned very fast to only cry once. When tools have the ability to hurt you, buying direct from china isnt a good idea if it can be avoided.

There are MANY shops going out of business, selling industrial quality tools, for pennies on the dollar right now. You spend more money buying a cheap tool than you doing buying a quality one.

If your going to use a tool for one time use, rent it. Im by no means rich, far from it, hell I bet 90 percent of the people on this site have more money than me. But I absolutely refuse to buy garbage tools when they matter, and ESPECIALLY when they can injure me. Some things that are sold at harbor freight, are the EXACT things that are repainted, and rebadged, and sold elsewhere for 5x the price, alot of it is just plain garbage though.

Sorry to thread jack so bad, but just thought id throw my opinion out on cheap tools (No I dont have a garage full of snap on and mac, just quality thought out purchases that will last me my lifetime on most things)

edit: jet ski work takes a very minimal assortment of tools, so if that is all you plan on doing than I guess harbor freight may suffice

 

[SirMrManGuy]

edit: jet ski work takes a very minimal assortment of tools, so if that is all you plan on doing than I guess harbor freight may suffice

So true! Coming from the offroad truck world and doing alot of metal fab I amassed a pretty sizeable collection ( I see you are a toyota guy!). Before I moved to NZ, I assembled my new hull, then packed every tool I used (only planing to be here a few years and my only motorized toy here is a ski, so I only took what I needed). It all fit in one tool bag.

I tend to buy a mix of high and low grade tools depending on the frequency I plan on using them and how critical they are to the fit/finish of what I'm doing (so even though I might not paint often, I had a decent gun since it made a big difference).