demolition_x
Not After Fame & Fortune
- Location
- Holden Beach / Wilmington NC
i know...
just that thought you know...
just that thought you know...
scupper feed back
- Thread starter FL-cracker
- Start date
accbr
addicted
- Location
- Lexington, KY
Same here. It still leaks a little.
they all leak.
i was thinking.......(yeah.... i really was.....), how good do those float switches work? do they get damaged easily? if not, it might be a good idea to use one in conjunction with 1 or 2 bilge pumps along with the plastic rotary switches since theyre double throw switches....
left position = bilge pumps on
center position = off
right position = bilge pumps on if float switch is closed.
:feedback:
i was thinking.......(yeah.... i really was.....), how good do those float switches work? do they get damaged easily? if not, it might be a good idea to use one in conjunction with 1 or 2 bilge pumps along with the plastic rotary switches since theyre double throw switches....
left position = bilge pumps on
center position = off
right position = bilge pumps on if float switch is closed.
:feedback:
accbr
addicted
- Location
- Lexington, KY
I've always used the float switches in my big boats. They work really good for me. I wire them up like you said. On/off/float. I had a 24ft cuddy, and one of the plastic freeze plugs came out while we were driving around. Instead of the water exiting out the back it was pi$$ing in the engine compartment. I didn't know until I stopped, and heard the water coming out. Took an hour to convice the wife we weren't sinking.
- Location
- So. IL
If I had it to do over again I would do dual one way drain valves into the pump cavity. The pressure wouldn't be as bad so they shouldn't blow out and they wouldn't be seen.
I just installed a rear side home depot valve in my project 300. I will either do this again on my SJ or into the pump cavity. Here are some pictures. The drain starts in the middle of the hull under the drive shaft. I just glued it all together with urethane and sanded the pvc smooth with the outside of the hull. These are pretty bad cell phone pictures but you get the idea Oh and igonre the quick reinforcement job inside.
I just installed a rear side home depot valve in my project 300. I will either do this again on my SJ or into the pump cavity. Here are some pictures. The drain starts in the middle of the hull under the drive shaft. I just glued it all together with urethane and sanded the pvc smooth with the outside of the hull. These are pretty bad cell phone pictures but you get the idea Oh and igonre the quick reinforcement job inside.
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- Location
- Cleveland Ohio
Get one of these. The BEST BILGE PUMP ever. It has a built in float switch that will never go bad. Works GREAT in my standup and has lasted 7 years in two skis!!! EVERYONE should have one and not look back. :arms:Rulemate 750. Screw the switchs and the 500 gph pumps. These are wayyyyyyyy better. Just hook it up to your battery and your done. Forever.
My ski is offically unsinkable due to this bilge and my Rachet hood straps. (ps... my 24-7 scupper leaks too. It still won't sink)
:biggrin:
My ski is offically unsinkable due to this bilge and my Rachet hood straps. (ps... my 24-7 scupper leaks too. It still won't sink)
:biggrin:
Attachments
FL-cracker
X-H2O
- Location
- old exit 72 Melbourne
24/7 scupper, and auto 750 rule it is!
- Location
- Del Mar, CA
You can be sold all you want.
IMO, it is a risk to run just that if you ride in the surf...I have blown them out, and I know of others also who have. But everything breaks if you push it. I will be happy next time to replace the little flap on the end of the scupper.
Again though, if I did more flatwater than surf I would use a one way valve cause the don't leak.
those one way valves are FLIMSY! i can see a huge backlanding pushing it fwd.
Y
yamaslut
Guest
FYI - It all depends on the one you buy... I have always gone w/ the 2" and it is much beefier than the 1.5.
I do agree that is it does break, it will be more difficult to replace/repair
I know lots of people that have used them, myself including, w/ no problems... I don't know...
??????????????????????
beachedflunkey
wavejunkies
- Location
- Virginia Beach
Anyone riding the east coast is possibly averaging 50%+ flatwater anyway. It'd be pretty easy to repair by installing a scupper after the fact though. As long as it's just the internal flap that breaks and everything's still sealed up nice inside. We've all had worse breaks than a one-way...
- Location
- Cleveland Ohio
Make sure it is a RuleMate. Not an automatic Rule. Those only check for water every minute or so. Good call. You will never go back.... and you'll never sink.
:Banane01::Banane01::Banane01:just do a google search. They are cheap at online boat stores!
:Banane01::Banane01::Banane01:just do a google search. They are cheap at online boat stores!
the WaTeRhAwK
fryin' up a/m electrics..
- Location
- okc
the flo-tec (squarebodied) valve, and the round bodies are both available at home depot or Lowes. I've had the square flo-tec on a 550 for the past couple of years and no problems, it hasn't seen much saltwater though, (sebastian once, and corpus a couple of times since). I think the round bodied one is the one that nick is using, or was using on his squarenose. I'm quite sure he flushes the complete poop out of his skis after riding them in salt because he told me he does.
if you're not following that procedure very well after riding them in saltwater, the drying deposits could be building up around the flap in the valve and not letting it close properly.
I've inspected both types of valves, and they appear to be synonymously functional, as far as construction and materials around the flap areas.
if you're not following that procedure very well after riding them in saltwater, the drying deposits could be building up around the flap in the valve and not letting it close properly.
I've inspected both types of valves, and they appear to be synonymously functional, as far as construction and materials around the flap areas.
Attachments
- Location
- Ann Arbor, MI
X-Metal scupper here, looks great, doesnt seem to leak too bad. Id like to try an XFT one tho, I like the "inset" look of it. I guess if it looks cool ill run it. :biggrin:
the WaTeRhAwK
fryin' up a/m electrics..
- Location
- okc
they have a skeletal brace that sits over the entire surface area of the flap that prevents that from happening. you would have to take something like a tiretool and jamb it in there to cause it to do that. a tail-first waterlanding on it isn't going to make it happen.
besides, they're really not a choice to be used by themselves anyway. you need a scupper on the outside, as well.
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the WaTeRhAwK
fryin' up a/m electrics..
- Location
- okc
it's not 100% necessary, but it's a convienient way of keeping the water from flowing back in when the ski is just sitting in the water. so why not do it?
those drain valves aren't perfect, and they are prone to letting the ski fill up with water if it just sits, I've seen people complain about how they went back to their ski and it's started to sink in the front with just the valve alone.
besides the fact that it just plain looks better than an open hole sitting on the back of the ski.
a flow contol valve sitting inside the ski isn't a scupper.
those drain valves aren't perfect, and they are prone to letting the ski fill up with water if it just sits, I've seen people complain about how they went back to their ski and it's started to sink in the front with just the valve alone.
besides the fact that it just plain looks better than an open hole sitting on the back of the ski.
a flow contol valve sitting inside the ski isn't a scupper.
the WaTeRhAwK
fryin' up a/m electrics..
- Location
- okc
good thinking matt. I really like to trick out my rides when I get the extra cash so it's not that much of a endevor for me. but it just ensures the extra water will stay out. screw leaks...lol
RoyalFlush@PCB
Shootin' The Crap
- Location
- PCB
Got pics? :smile: