Super Jet Sealing brand new cases

Pablo

sqeez bth levrs & lean bk
Site Supporter
Location
georgia
I've read a few threads on those that have sealed their own cases. I'm sealing a set of brand new cases with new OEM crank seals. I've heard of some horror stories with others who haven't had an adequate seal between the cases with resulting air leak. I'm sealing with Hondabond. Take a look at my sealing game plan.

Is it enough or overkill?
How heavy of a bead should you lay down?
Put sealant on the seals yeah or neah?

I stole the case pics off someone else's thread. These are not my new cases so don't bust my chops.
 

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Midlake Crisis

Site Supporter
Location
Bakersfield, CA
I use Threebond 1194 and it has worked great.
You put it on very thin and let it dry for a minute before you assemble, a disposable glue brush is perfect.
I got it from the local motorcycle shop.
41WwPY-fj5L._SL500_AA300_.jpg
 
threebond 1211 for me. don't put any around the seals.ensure that both cases are spotless and de-greased before applying and only put a very thin bead on one case
 

Sospikey

Trying to get upside down
Location
Sweden
I've had issues with leaks around the thin lips in the flywheel area. Be sure to wipe any and all grease off with acetone or similar. Once you have assembled the cases wipe the outside clean for that neat look.
 

Waternut

Customizing addict
Location
Macon, GA
It's only supposed to go on very thinly and I believe the instructions say to only coat one surface but you should verify that. I've tried a few different methods but a finger and a nitrile glove seem to work best. I always put sealant between the cases and the seals but I've heard mixed opinions on that.

I have the leak checker at my house and I highly recommend using it to avoid the "horror story".
 

McDog

Other Administrator
Staff member
Location
South Florida
Paul lehr keeps telling me that cases have to be vacuum checked not pressure tested. Just throwing it out there for discussion. I don't know exactly how it's feasable for us do it yourselfers.
 

tor*p*do

Squarenose FTW
Site Supporter
Location
NW NC
Paul lehr keeps telling me that cases have to be vacuum checked not pressure tested. Just throwing it out there for discussion. I don't know exactly how it's feasable for us do it yourselfers.

If it holds pressure, it will hold vaccum
I do not see the advantage of a vacuum check over a pressure test
 

Tyler Zane

Open Your Eyes
im a first time builder as of this year and have 100 hours on my motor so far with no problems. 1211 very thin on both halves, light coat on seals, tourqe down, let dry for a day or two! (most important thing) recheck tourqe.

its not hard, guys
 
No sealant on oem crank seals will work fine from my experience...sealant on bottom case only...don't forget to grease crank seals where they ride the crank....
 
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Waternut

Customizing addict
Location
Macon, GA
I don't necessarily agree with it but I can see the potential of the seals not holding vacuum but holding positive pressure due to their shape and the shape of the crank. However, crank case sealant is squashed together in tension and then loaded in shear. Shear carrying capability is calculated by using the cross sectional area in this application so it can carry the exact same load one direction as it can the other. Take into account that the sealant is maybe 0.003" thick and loaded with 10psi max of vacuum and you're talking about maybe a 1/4 lb of force on the sealant across the entire length of each side of the case. I'd be curious to hear the justification behind why using negative vs positive pressure would make a difference.
 
Make sure both sealing surfaces are completely clean using brake cleaner or contact cleaner. Also make sure the sealing surfaces for the crank seals are completely clean also. Put a thin layer of Threebond 1211 on both sealing surfaces leaving the crank seal sealing area clean and dry. USE OEM CRANK SEALS. Put grease on the inner lips of the seals before installing on the crankshaft. Leave the outside sealing surface dry and clean.
 

waterfreak

I had a vision!
Site Supporter
Vendor Account
Location
s florida
Make sure both sealing surfaces are completely clean using brake cleaner or contact cleaner. Also make sure the sealing surfaces for the crank seals are completely clean also. Put a thin layer of Threebond 1211 on both sealing surfaces leaving the crank seal sealing area clean and dry. USE OEM CRANK SEALS. Put grease on the inner lips of the seals before installing on the crankshaft. Leave the outside sealing surface dry and clean.

and we have a winner!!:fing02:
 

Octane_114

LeT tHe gOOd tImEs RoLL
Location
Charleston S.C.
Make sure both sealing surfaces are completely clean using brake cleaner or contact cleaner. Also make sure the sealing surfaces for the crank seals are completely clean also. Put a thin layer of Threebond 1211 on both sealing surfaces leaving the crank seal sealing area clean and dry. USE OEM CRANK SEALS. Put grease on the inner lips of the seals before installing on the crankshaft. Leave the outside sealing surface dry and clean.


i do the same but i use anaerobic flange sealant
 

Pablo

sqeez bth levrs & lean bk
Site Supporter
Location
georgia
So to clean this up for future reference:

1. Prep/clean both case surfaces with brake cleaner, contact cleaner, or some other non-residue type solvent/cleaner.
2. OEM seals
3. Grease inside of OEM seals where they're in contact with crank
4. Leave outside of OEM seals clean where they contact cases
5. Drop in crank with seals.
6. Oil crank bearings with good stuff (Klotz, Amsoil)
7. Thin bead of "case sealant" (1211, Yamabond, Hondabond, etc.) to bottom case only
8. Line up cases and dowel pins and press together
9. Torque bolts to spec

I liked stunts318 thread with pics. I studied it as well for good reference.
 
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