Sealing tray area before re-foaming? "Flex Seal"??

[KyFritz]

This may be out in left field but I was thinking of how I would go about reseal the bond lines on the SN after i de-foam it. I've read resin works best just tipping it on the side and letting it settle in. I will go this route but was thinking of an alternative, but I wanna see everyones thoughts on using something else.

The product "Flex Seal" the spray can solution that can supposedly make a boat with a hole float again. The process would be easy to apply, but will it hold up? On paper it seems like a good idea, but I would be worried about longevity and overall seal quality. Obviously I would use multiple layers to seal it best.

I will be using 2 Part Foam to Re-Foam.

What is everyones thoughts on this one?

And if you have anything negative to say please keep it to yourself. This is a simple question to get everyone's brains thinking. Negativity is not welcome here, but an honest opinion is what I'm searching for.

 

[Kohldanielzimmer]

I have no empirical data with this specific product. However, I have found the TV offer products are generally significantly poorer performers than as advertised. It is an interesting concept but i would be nervous to defoam/reform and glass a tray to experiment with this method rather than tried and true concepts ( plexus or thickened resin). You may consider mixing up some small amount of the product as a trial to make sure there is not any reaction with the foam.

With all that said, no one will ever know without trying so if you have the time and possibly the time to do it again, go for it and report the results.

 

[BruceSki]

The advantage of filling the bond line with foam, cabosil, thickened resin and other similar products is used more to make the transition between top and bottom decks flat to lay some glass for reinforcement.

If you just want to seal it up with something, a $12 tube of 5200 is fairly light and easy to apply.

 

[SuperDrifter]

I'm still wondering why tray re-foamers would use sheet of cut foam vs. expanding 2 part urethane. Seems to me the void airspace left with 'cut foam' would store much more water than an expanding foam. My .02

Why wouldn't Flex Seal work? I don't see any drawbacks, and it could potentially work. What am i missing?

 

[KyFritz]

With Sheets of cut foam you would want to install drain plugs.

 

[Big Kahuna]

2 part foam is not really a closed cell foam, it will hold water if your hull is not 100% sealed.

 

[SuperDrifter]

BK, the 2 part expanding foam from US composite is labelled as 'closed cell', but it does break down after a few years though.

Home Depot spray is open cell...

 

[chad]

I bought some flex seal with the exact thing in mind But before I had a chance to use it , my neighbors called and said they had a leaky toilet I checked it out and determined they had a hairline crack in the porcelain ... My suggestion was to buy a new toilet or we could try flex seal ... This was 18 months ago It has held up being submerged constantly . I think it would work

 

[Roseand]

BK, the 2 part expanding foam from US composite is labelled as 'closed cell', but it does break down after a few years though.

Home Depot spray is open cell...

I used 4 lb two part from us composites to fill in behind my footholds, and I somehow didn't seal the holes and holds good enough, because some of that new foam was already soaked after one season..
This time I filled the bond line with cabisol and laid biax inside the gunwales, and I'm ditching the oem sealant that comes off very easy and using West systems g flex 655,and I'm sealing inserts with that and laying glass over them. Im also using sheet foam, building a very very strong tray, and using full size drainplugs to empty any water that gets in there. I might add versiplugs to them if I must. It'll be extremely lightweight and fail proof.

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[SuperDrifter]

Flex-Seal may be the same formula as Plasti-Dip?

@ Roseand that foam is an Epic failure for it's sole purpose (2lb. USCG approved). By 'soaked' did you do a cut through to see if was wet beyond surface?

 

[Roseand]

Flex-Seal may be the same formula as Plasti-Dip?

@ Roseand that foam is an Epic failure for it's sole purpose (2lb. USCG approved). By 'soaked' did you do a cut through to see if was wet beyond surface?

It was the 4lb?and it was probably close to.125 —. 25 inches wet into the foam, after only one season.

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[SuperDrifter]

I'm going to contact US composites and (try) to find out why the product is breaking down so quickly.

Spoke w/a technician @ USComposites. Turns out Closed cell is not closed cell. It's 95-98%
I was a bit confused about how to get the necessary 'skin' required (within a enclosure) for longevity. Short story, next foaming will be blue...

 

[KyFritz]

I bought some flex seal with the exact thing in mind But before I had a chance to use it , my neighbors called and said they had a leaky toilet I checked it out and determined they had a hairline crack in the porcelain ... My suggestion was to buy a new toilet or we could try flex seal ... This was 18 months ago It has held up being submerged constantly . I think it would work

If it holds up in a toilet why not a Jet Ski...

This may be worth a try I just need to make sure there is no bad reaction to the foam.

I still have not ruled out Home Depot foam sheets and drain plugs. I just would not enjoy the cutting and fitting. And overtime I feel the foam would break down and start shifting.

 

[Big Kahuna]

A toilet does not flex and take impacts, Unless it is in "Big Mama's" house...........

If you go the foam sheet route, you take the time to cut and shape each piece to get the maximum amount in there, may will still pour some foam to fill voids.

 

[Roseand]

A toilet does not flex and take impacts, Unless it is in "Big Mama's" house...........

If you go the foam sheet route, you take the time to cut and shape each piece to get the maximum amount in there, may will still pour some foam to fill voids.

IMO I have mixed feelings about the max amount of foam. I think sinking your ski can be easily avoided, especially in a ski with a bulkhead. (surf can be another story if it stays upside down and starts sinking, but a surf ski filled with heavy wet foam isn't the end of the world for getting air in the surf..)
Dual bilges, modded hood, fresh nice hood seal, hood straps/ratchet, good hood hooks, STOCK BILGE SIPHON!, a reliable switch, etc. I think can go a long way in prevention. I've also seen air bladders that you can inflate that are rugged enough to survive in the engine compartment too.
Prevention is more important than foam IMO, but there are always freak accidents.

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[BruceSki]

Coming from a landlocked guy. Lol.

I'll keep my heavy foamed skis in surf. I've sunk a few and they tend to bob with the ride plate sticking out of the water. That is enough to tow it in an worry about unsinking procedures and getting back home in one piece.

 

[Roseand]

Coming from a landlocked guy. Lol.

I'll keep my heavy foamed skis in surf. I've sunk a few and they tend to bob with the ride plate sticking out of the water. That is enough to tow it in an worry about unsinking procedures and getting back home in one piece.

Well my advice is more towards flatwater. Like I said, there's freak accidents, and foam is more crucial in the surf.
And hey, we've got some crazy surf on Lake Michigan at times..


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[KyFritz]

I wont be going as far as re enforcing quite yet. I plan to stick to the flatwater but maybe once or twice hit the surf. I can see the benefits of the Pink foam and I'm going to do a little more research on it. I would just be worried about getting an exact fit. I'm still thinkin I may try the flex seal mostly around the bulkhead. 3M 5200 will come in handy to fill holes and other areas.

 

[Big Kahuna]

I wont be going as far as re enforcing quite yet. I plan to stick to the flatwater but maybe once or twice hit the surf. I can see the benefits of the Pink foam and I'm going to do a little more research on it. I would just be worried about getting an exact fit. I'm still thinkin I may try the flex seal mostly around the bulkhead. 3M 5200 will come in handy to fill holes and other areas.

Trying something new is great, but when it is in a spot you cannot get to or check to see if it is holding, bad idea. Pick up some 5200 from Walmart and just use what everybody has recommended.

 

[SuperDrifter]

Test it somehow...you may have solved a serious problem, or it could be a useless product.