Shade tree exhaust boring/grinding...

[96superjet]

While I'm waiting for my PHP PowerMouse to show up, I figured I'd try to be constructive with my time this evening. Took my fresh outta the box Factory B-pipe exhaust manifold and decided to open it up to 50mm. In preparation, I sourced a 50mm gasket from @JetManiac and a 1 1/2" sanding drum from some online woodworking store (approx $3 plus shipping).

Started by measuring the initial bore size.

Used my 50mm gasket as a template and marked the manifold with a sharpie.

Time to start grinding. Oh... and this is the part where you should put on protective eyewear and some type of dust mask.

This took about 20 minutes.

When my motor shows up I'll stencil the exhaust ports and attempt to match them with this same grinding technique.



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[Jakobi86]

Probably cut your time in half with a carbide burr. Looks good otherwise. Now spend some time polishing that entire inside to a mirror so the carbon doesn't stick


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[96superjet]

Probably cut your time in half with a carbide burr. Looks good otherwise. Now spend some time polishing that entire inside to a mirror so the carbon doesn't stick


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I looked online for something like that, but didn't know it was referred to as a "carbide burr". I'm going to look again and pick one up, as I'm sure I'll use it again in the future.


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[Jakobi86]

Try eBay. 1/4 shaft for air tools and I think 1/8 for a dremel. I used 1/4 in a drill press like you did and it works great. Lube the burr end with candle wax and it keeps the aluminum from gumming up the bit

 

[Quinc]

Do you have a link to the burr you are using? Also what are you using to polish the inside of your manifold? I have been using sandpaper drums on an air grinder and damn it takes forever.. =/

 

[yamanube]

http://www.mcmaster.com/#dremel-compatible-carbide-burs/=tjv27n

 

[96superjet]

I never thought of the "mirror polish" to keep the inside from building up carbon, but for $19.99 minus a 20% coupon. Why not?

http://m.harborfreight.com/14-piece...t-98707.html?utm_referrer=direct/not provided

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[Quinc]

I never thought of the "mirror polish" to keep the inside from building up carbon, but for $19.99 minus a 20% coupon. Why not?

http://m.harborfreight.com/14-piece-aluminum-polishing-kit-98707.html?utm_referrer=direct/not provided

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I have used that kit. It works ok. Still takes a while.

 

[96superjet]

for those that have used carbide burs before. You can order either double cut and single cut burs. I'm making the assumption that double cut remove more material in a quicker manner, but don't know this as a fact. Is there downside/upsides to using double vs. single cut burs? e.g. one gums up with material faster than the other, one gets dull faster, etc...

 

[Quinc]

for those that have used carbide burs before. You can order either double cut and single cut burs. I'm making the assumption that double cut remove more material in a quicker manner, but don't know this as a fact. Is there downside/upsides to using double vs. single cut burs? e.g. one gums up with material faster than the other, one gets dull faster, etc...

Mine look like this and they plug up pretty quick.

 

[Scraggly]

dip in atf or even wd40 first when using on aluminum. helps a lot.

 

[Vumad]

I buy my carbide burs from Fastenal because they have stores locally. I can hold the item in my hand and pick which one I want. They are about $30 each, so I usually only buy one at a time, slowly obtaining a variety. I mostly use them for my fiberglass work because they never dull and they never lose their shape. Used them once for aluminum and it cut like butter.

 

[Big Kahuna]

Stick it in muratic acid to loosen up the aluminum.

 

[River Rat]

Mine look like this and they plug up pretty quick.

Same one I use, then sand it afterwards works great and fast

 

[Quinc]

I will try the wd40 trick. I have an old chunk of railroad tie I cut into to clear the aluminum out of it.

 

[augustaf]

Here's another trick: a carbide burr for alu that will not clog up. Btw, don't grind to much out of the area towards the center or the engine, cracking and leaks may result.

 

[DAG]

for those that have used carbide burs before. You can order either double cut and single cut burs. I'm making the assumption that double cut remove more material in a quicker manner, but don't know this as a fact. Is there downside/upsides to using double vs. single cut burs? e.g. one gums up with material faster than the other, one gets dull faster, etc...

look into these, the all clog thou.

these however have 1/4" shaft and not dremmel compatible
http://www.mcmaster.com/#carbide-burs/=tjwkkw

 

[Jakobi86]

I think the double cut won't "walk" as easy as the single. Also, wd40, ATF, kerosene, diesel all work great for lube and to help the keep the bit clean but on the downside, that stuff flies everywhere. Been there, done that. Now I use candle wax. Works like a charm. A sanding flap wheel or drum, one where the paper isn't tight, it's loose and has a tail will work the best. Polishing sucks, but smooth slick finish rejects carbon build up (exhaust) and a rough texture, I prefer sandblasted finish, on everything on the intake side will promote atomization of the fuel better

 

[jo5hi3]

actually all you need is some scrap steel laying around... once the aluminum clogs the bit you just run it on the steel and it cleans it out

 

[xXx Octane xXx]

If you're using carbide burs on aluminum, invest in a tube of Castrol stick wax.