SJ Dash delete question / first build

Hey all, looking to order a mat kit and I’m confused on where you would locate a primer/choke if I were to choose a kit with a dash delete option? I like the look of if but there’s no way I could ride Wisconsin without a primer. Any info on what you do to relocate these would be awesome help, thanks!E60CC8F0-8749-4D21-A3A1-F39DEA5CA152.jpeg
 
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DylanS

Gorilla Smasher
Location
Lebanon Pa
Hey all, looking to order a mat kit and I’m confused on where you would locate a primer/choke if I were to choose a kit with a dash delete option? I like the look of if but there’s no way I could ride Wisconsin without a primer. Any info on what you do to relocate these would be awesome help, thanks!View attachment 424516
Ditch the primer start your ski with ye old palm over the carb method at the beginning of the day, convenience is for NERDS
 
Lol alright so there aren’t any alternative primer locations really. After talking with jet trim on the phone it sounds like it’s not difficult to just cut the holes out in their mats, so I’ll just get the kit with the dash delete option and make holes for it, problem solved!
 
Location
dfw
Ditch the primer start your ski with ye old palm over the carb method at the beginning of the day, convenience is for NERDS
Some of us NERDS like to run our part throttle mixture a little cleaner than all you COOL kids do. A primer is usually a good thing to have either way.
 
If you don't trust your cutting skills, Thrust sells a Watt Hole Bilge Switch mount that you could also put a primer bulb in. It's got a nice flange that would cover any crappy craftmanship if you screw up cutting the dash mat. https://www.thrustinnovations.com/product/watt-hole-bilge-switch-hole/
I’m interested in these! But Trying to figure out why people want rotary bilge switches, is that so you can have a float switch and an “auto” mode? I’ve only seen the regular metal toggle switches for manual control in the past, wondering if the wiring becomes alot more difficult adding a float switch on a it a 3 way rotary switch. Also wondering if these watt holes work within the OEM sized holes in the hull (see my pic) or if I would have to bore them out larger, hard to find photos online of them installed.
 
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Update for future people wondering the same thing: watt hole mounts require 1-1/4” holes, hole saw being the best method to install, and 3 position rotary bilge switches can be wired to a simple on/off if you don’t have a float switch.
I’m interested in these! But Trying to figure out why people want rotary bilge switches, is that so you can have a float switch and an “auto” mode? I’ve only seen the regular metal toggle switches for manual control in the past, wondering if the wiring becomes alot more difficult adding a float switch on a it a 3 way rotary switch. Also wondering if these watt holes work within the OEM sized holes in the hull (see my pic) or if I would have to bore them out larger, hard to find photos online of them installed.
 
I've considered putting a primer up in front by the pole mount, I think that would work fine and put it in an out of the way protected place out of the front of the tray, but I'm hesitant to cut a hole up there, so I've never gone through with the idea.
 
I've considered putting a primer up in front by the pole mount, I think that would work fine and put it in an out of the way protected place out of the front of the tray, but I'm hesitant to cut a hole up there, so I've never gone through with the idea.
Would probably work, just would see a lot more water exposure than on the dash, probably a higher chance of getting water in your fuel would be the downside
 
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