SJ melted stinger waterline twice and B1 won’t start

I took my SJ and new to me Blaster out for the first time this season. All was going well with both initially. But after about 10 min my SJ started running poorly. I took it in and saw that the waterline into the stinger had melted off and the line from a T to my FCV (which goes into stinger) had fallen off (hose clamp was gone). I assumed the clamp that feeds the FCV had fallen off and the T was just pumping engine water into the hull and thus the stinger and waterbox weren’t getting any water.
That would explain why the bilge water was so hot, it was engine water in the hull! Anyway, I put a clamp back on the T (this T is fed by a line off the headpipe and the 90 deg leg goes to a pisser and the straight leg of the T goes to a FCV and then to stinger.

I put a clamp on the T that was missing it (the one going to FCV) and replaced the melted line thinking everything was good to go again. After about 5-7 min when all felt fine, I noticed it running poorly again and that the pisser that has the T was no longer blowing water but smoke only (just as it had the first time).

I have a B pipe mod chamber with a ported JM 735. My cooling setup is dual cooling with rear outlet of ADA going direct to a pisser and front ADA line going to lower headpipe. Upper headpipe outlet goes to a T to FCV/stinger and the 90 deg leg goes to a pisser. I’ve ran this cooling setup for quite a while with no problems. Now it melted the stinger line twice. Gotta be a pebble or small rock in one of the lines somewhere, no?

And onto the other.... the blaster ran awesome for the first hour. Then it started to have issues too. Once it starts it runs awesome. It’s having trouble starting. It turns over most of the time, sometimes not. But even when turning over a lot of the times it won’t start. I have a lanyard with 2 thicknesses of keys. One seemed to get it to crank more often than the other.

If it cranks, can the S/S switch be bad or not? Playing with the lanyard seemed to help it crank or not. I had trouble getting it to start for 20 min, then it did and ran awesome for 10 min (this is after running great for the first hour) then I fell off and couldn’t get it to start (would crank intermittently, about 75% of time).

I’m leaving Wed morning for a camping trip for 4 days with the skis and now both are down. Ugh.
 
Location
Wisconsin
I took my SJ and new to me Blaster out for the first time this season. All was going well with both initially. But after about 10 min my SJ started running poorly. I took it in and saw that the waterline into the stinger had melted off and the line from a T to my FCV (which goes into stinger) had fallen off (hose clamp was gone). I assumed the clamp that feeds the FCV had fallen off and the T was just pumping engine water into the hull and thus the stinger and waterbox weren’t getting any water.
That would explain why the bilge water was so hot, it was engine water in the hull! Anyway, I put a clamp back on the T (this T is fed by a line off the headpipe and the 90 deg leg goes to a pisser and the straight leg of the T goes to a FCV and then to stinger.

I put a clamp on the T that was missing it (the one going to FCV) and replaced the melted line thinking everything was good to go again. After about 5-7 min when all felt fine, I noticed it running poorly again and that the pisser that has the T was no longer blowing water but smoke only (just as it had the first time).

I have a B pipe mod chamber with a ported JM 735. My cooling setup is dual cooling with rear outlet of ADA going direct to a pisser and front ADA line going to lower headpipe. Upper headpipe outlet goes to a T to FCV/stinger and the 90 deg leg goes to a pisser. I’ve ran this cooling setup for quite a while with no problems. Now it melted the stinger line twice. Gotta be a pebble or small rock in one of the lines somewhere, no?

And onto the other.... the blaster ran awesome for the first hour. Then it started to have issues too. Once it starts it runs awesome. It’s having trouble starting. It turns over most of the time, sometimes not. But even when turning over a lot of the times it won’t start. I have a lanyard with 2 thicknesses of keys. One seemed to get it to crank more often than the other.

If it cranks, can the S/S switch be bad or not? Playing with the lanyard seemed to help it crank or not. I had trouble getting it to start for 20 min, then it did and ran awesome for 10 min (this is after running great for the first hour) then I fell off and couldn’t get it to start (would crank intermittently, about 75% of time).

I’m leaving Wed morning for a camping trip for 4 days with the skis and now both are down. Ugh.

Do both pissers stop flowing water, or just the one coming off the FCV/overboard tee? I've seen that fitting on the headpipe be clogged with the perfect sized rock before right in the brass part, obviously made the pipe extremely hot, check there. Maybe try running it on the hose first at home too
 
The pisser directly off the rear of ADA head flows water all the time and seemed to be unaffected by the heating issue. The one that comes off the headpipe and Ts to a pisser and FCV/stinger seemed to flow water normally at first (it flows less than the other then the FCV opens around half throttle and they’re a little more even). Once it got hot and the stinger line started to leak and eventually melted it was less and less water from that pisser and eventually just smoke.

I’m reasonably new to this hobby still, how do I connect the garden hose to the cooling system if I have 2 lines coming into the manifold?

I have the triple flush kit from Blowsion with one of the lines blocked off since I only have 2 pissers. It plugs directly into the pissers, but I haven’t used it yet since it’s onlg been in fresh water. Can I use this to run it “on the hose” or no?



Do both pissers stop flowing water, or just the one coming off the FCV/overboard tee? I've seen that fitting on the headpipe be clogged with the perfect sized rock before right in the brass part, obviously made the pipe extremely hot, check there. Maybe try running it on the hose first at home too
 
Last edited:
Update on SJ cooling line problem:

I got off the water late last night and didn't look underneath it. The previous owner added a 2nd cooling line to the pump for true dual cooling. There's a 90 deg fitting on the left side of the pump that had fallen out. There's my problem. Is that the OE line or the one the prev owner added? I can't get a good look at it right now but can see the fitting came out.

Update on B1:

I unplugged the white/black harness and it started right up. Plugged it back in and killed it. I have the S/S switch guts coming from @JetManiac tomorrow. He's the best.
 
Ski is on the back of my truck and I went out and looked at it at lunch. The hole on the left side of pump that the fitting came out doesn't feel like it has any threads in it and the fitting has a bunch of epoxy/JB weld on it. I haven't taken the rideplate off yet to really get a good look at it to be sure.
 
Location
Wisconsin
Ski is on the back of my truck and I went out and looked at it at lunch. The hole on the left side of pump that the fitting came out doesn't feel like it has any threads in it and the fitting has a bunch of epoxy/JB weld on it. I haven't taken the rideplate off yet to really get a good look at it to be sure.

Will have to re-do the JB weld, then. Time to pull the pump.
 
Top Bottom