'Ski corrosion/deposits and how to address?

We'd all be familiar with that white, powdery substance that forms in areas where stainless steel (typically bolts) and aluminium (typically engine and pump components) interface. My question is: what is this stuff (chemically speaking) and what is the best solution to immerse affected components in to soften/dissolve it?
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
We'd all be familiar with that white, powdery substance that forms in areas where stainless steel (typically bolts) and aluminium (typically engine and pump components) interface. My question is: what is this stuff (chemically speaking) and what is the best solution to immerse affected components in to soften/dissolve it?

Corrosin is oxidation just like rust on steel. Metals as we know them are crafted. Steel is an easy example to understand if youve ever walked through a cave and seen iron oxide that looks like rust on the cave wall. Steel comes from iron oxide and is crafted. As it oxidizes, it returns back into the stuff you saw in the cave. Alluminum does the same thing. It does it much faster when its in contact with a dissimlar metal and extremely fast when in an electrolyte solution like salt water.

The best thing to do about it is to prevent it. Use anti-sieze or locktight on everything to create a barrier between the two metals. I also use waterproof grease in some situations. Eliminating salt is the next step, so a good cleaning and flush after use is important. Products like salt away can help. The last step, one few do but i can attest from experience that it helps, is to put a protective coat of oil on everything after cleaning and a day of drying. Personally i use wd40 on all metal components i can access, including the pump etc, and do my best to get it down on the starter etc. I use heavy duty spray silicone on anything i touch such as throttle levers and latches as it will provide some protection but wont leave a residue. I know thee are better products available, thee are some silicone dressings i want to try, but i wont mention them by name until i have seen success.

The last question is a bit less enjoyable to answer. The best way to get corrosion off is with a wire brush or wheel. You can get it fully clean by using a little wd40 after knocking off the big stuff. Never breath corrosion dust, it is brutal. Once corrosion has formed, it has destroyed the protective layer of paint or annodizing. Annodizing can not be easily replaced. Paint or wax can offer some degree of protection but it is best to protect the origional protective coating. Dont buy aluminum that isnt annodized if you are going to salt ride.

The best practice is prevention. Clean and oil after each use and occassionally disassemble for fresh antiseize, grease, etc.
 

Proformance1

Liquid Insanity
Location
New York Crew
Off topic, but insert new ford truck commercial here on how they wont ever rust. LOL Great explanation of oxidation. Dont forget that they sell zinc anodes for self sacrificing oxidation/corrosion inhibitors. Yamaha and Mercury use them as well as industrial oil field and mining equipment.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Off topic, but insert new ford truck commercial here on how they wont ever rust. LOL Great explanation of oxidation. Dont forget that they sell zinc anodes for self sacrificing oxidation/corrosion inhibitors. Yamaha and Mercury use them as well as industrial oil field and mining equipment.

We have them in the intakes on the fire engines. Do people run them on the ski? If so, where? I believere there is one uneer the head heldmon by a phillips.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Yes, Yam cylinders have a sacrificial anode mounted on a boss between the two cylinders, several times however, the only way I have ever (!) seen one sacrifice itself is by breaking in two and dropping to the bottom, or half of it disappearing like a sock in a drier.

Lol. Ive had my doubts thst they are what they are. See 20 year old motors loaded with corrosion and that part looks showroom new.
 
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