Ski Paint

Wondering what people use to paint there skis? I'm going to use automotive paint, but should I use single stage or base clear? The paint I'm using is DuPont.
 
Single stage here
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Single stage paint: paint mixed with reducer and sprayed. Cured paint is your final product. Two stage: base color mixed with reducer and sprayed. Clear coat mixed with reducer and sprayed over cured base coat.... If your applying clear over single stage, it's not single stage anymore
 

MikeyB

H2O-Addict®
Location
Michigan
Single stage paint: paint mixed with reducer and sprayed. Cured paint is your final product. Two stage: base color mixed with reducer and sprayed. Clear coat mixed with reducer and sprayed over cured base coat.... If your applying clear over single stage, it's not single stage anymore

If you're talking acrylic urethane, then it goes like this: Single Stage; color mixed with reducer and hardener, BC/CC; color mixed with reducer and hardener and then clear mixed with hardener.
 
Basically what I said. I forgot to mention the hardner in single stage. Reducer isnt necessary unless you prefer it or are spraying out of a gun with the incorrect tip
 
Single stage for me. I used dupont rival over the winter with good results. It laid on smooth with my devilbiss finishline and if it werent for all the dirt in my garage, I wouldnt have needed to wet sand or polish it. Pretty much i'd recommend to stick with industrial finishes;

Dupont Imron, Dupont Rival, PPG Fleetline

Everyone I know has their own preference. I tried the Rival which is supposed to be a low VOC replacement for Imron. It seemed to work pretty good. I was told by a local supplier that Imron didn't have metallic single stage, but Rival did. Someone told me later on that was false. I had some issues on the bottom deck where it was peeling up from the primer. The paint seemed to bond well to the primer, but the primer didn't bond well to gelcoat. Maybe I should've scuffed it heavier, or just used epoxy primer. The top deck I painted right over the gelcoat and have no adhesion issues.

As for reducer, I would recommend it. Dupont spends tons of money to formulate a perfect product for fleets and OEM refinishing. Some of their line ups have been around for over a decade, I think by now it should be perfected. If the product information sheet says to use reducer; use it. Often times they give options of reducer ratios for different uses. Like if you were going to spray out of a HVLP, pressure pot or brush.

Whatever you spray, take extra precautions with ventilation, cover skin and use a *new* respirator meant for it. All these paints have cyanide in it, some people can handle it and wont notice the effects immediately. Others can have an allergic reaction instantly.
 
Basically what I said. I forgot to mention the hardner in single stage. Reducer isnt necessary unless you prefer it or are spraying out of a gun with the incorrect tip

be careful with non specific information like this. depending on the brand and what you buy some paint is pre reduce and some is not. don't need a noob trying to spray unreduced paint out of a nice gun and adding a lot of extra work for himself.


while i prefer single for things like my jeeps (lots of constant body damage) i generally run base clear on my jetski due to the extra UV protection as well as if i spend this much on a hull i want it looking as bitchin as possible. and its not hard to respray a top deck. skis are small.

Recommendation: if this is ur first paint job don't get fancy. u want it to look proffesional stay away from metallics and pearls and use a single stage. that way any runs or imperfections can be easily wet sanded and buffed out. Also if u are worried about fading stick to cool colors. warm colors fade much quicker. but honestly usually isnt a problem unless you see the same color fresh sprayed next to it or you try to repair the paint 2 years later and the color no longer matches.
 
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