Superjetjim
X-
It's takes less than a minute to wrap a peice of wire around the negative term on battery and round/under a flywheel cover bolt and you have ruled in/out an earth problem! Get it done dude ;0)
Super Jet Slow to crank even with new starter and battery!!!!!
- Thread starter d_moss
- Start date
- Location
- Rexburg, ID
I took a video but I have not up loaded it. If I have the charger on the battery and a volt meter on the neg battery terminal.and Then the pos lead on the starter post on the ebox. Then i crank it over, battery volts drop to 10.5 and the meter says 8.5 volts out of the starter post on the ebox. shouldn't the starter see 10.5 also?
I have the ebox grounded to batt via 10 gauge from the inside of the box poking out the heat sensor grommet.
Neg battery cable to starter bolt
10 gauge wire from the battery wrapped and clamped to the head gurdle stud.
Plus the stator is a ground
So it is grounded.
I have the ebox grounded to batt via 10 gauge from the inside of the box poking out the heat sensor grommet.
Neg battery cable to starter bolt
10 gauge wire from the battery wrapped and clamped to the head gurdle stud.
Plus the stator is a ground
So it is grounded.
- Location
- Florida
Have u tried new battery cables rad dudes sells a nice replacement set...
- Location
- Rexburg, ID
Voltage is low from the starter post on the ebox when grounded off the battery. That eliminates possible bad cables. I will search my pile for a voltage regulator rectifier and maybe try a new relay and see what happens.
Tyrant1919
Site Supporter
- Location
- Washington, DC
Hows it sound when you jump the starter relay with a wrench or something? Don't replace your starter relay if it sounds the same after you jump the relay with a wrench. Now if you jump the relay and it rolls over nice, you know it's the relay.
- Location
- Victoria BC
8.5 volts is too low for the starter. You need 10-11volts for it to crank well, a drop from 12.4 or so to 10-11 is typical.
- Location
- Rexburg, ID
Found it!
it was the posts that come out of the ebox. This ski had two small cables in the ebox connected to the solenoid then to some posts that poked out of the ebox then you bolted the cables from the batt and starter to that. I believe its aftermarket and it makes it easier to hook up accessories like a bilge pump. It was corroded and that was the issue. Pulled it out ran the cables through the grommets directly to the NEW not needed solenoid i installed for fun. Now it gets a solid 10.5-11 volts tot the starter.
For those interested in my trouble shooting.
So the posts got warm when I cranked it (thats a not good sign). I figured if i had everything grounded well and the posts on the ebox was reading 8.5 volts output it had to be internal. Took the fifty stripped phillips screws out and opened it up. I then tested the solenoid posts while cranking. Hot side same as battery voltage 12.5. starter side while cranking 8.5v. Ok its the solenoid. I jumped it with a screw driver scared the poop out of me as usual. still got 8.5 volts coming out of the solenoid. So I put my new solenoid in no change. SO Then I think I checked the battery side of the solenoid voltage while cranking 8.5volts (hmm) weird.. Then I took out the wire going from the solenoid to the posts that go through the grommet to the cables. Hooked the cable directly to the solenoid. BLAM fixed cranks all pissed off and ski runs at a bump of the button.
I am guessing the posts were corroded just enough that it would still see 12.5 volts at the solenoid with no load. But under a large current draw it would only let 8.5 volts get to the starter. The other 2 volts was transformed into heat making the posts hot.
Thanks for the help folks it was in a way the battery cables after all and it was a free fix.
it was the posts that come out of the ebox. This ski had two small cables in the ebox connected to the solenoid then to some posts that poked out of the ebox then you bolted the cables from the batt and starter to that. I believe its aftermarket and it makes it easier to hook up accessories like a bilge pump. It was corroded and that was the issue. Pulled it out ran the cables through the grommets directly to the NEW not needed solenoid i installed for fun. Now it gets a solid 10.5-11 volts tot the starter.
For those interested in my trouble shooting.
So the posts got warm when I cranked it (thats a not good sign). I figured if i had everything grounded well and the posts on the ebox was reading 8.5 volts output it had to be internal. Took the fifty stripped phillips screws out and opened it up. I then tested the solenoid posts while cranking. Hot side same as battery voltage 12.5. starter side while cranking 8.5v. Ok its the solenoid. I jumped it with a screw driver scared the poop out of me as usual. still got 8.5 volts coming out of the solenoid. So I put my new solenoid in no change. SO Then I think I checked the battery side of the solenoid voltage while cranking 8.5volts (hmm) weird.. Then I took out the wire going from the solenoid to the posts that go through the grommet to the cables. Hooked the cable directly to the solenoid. BLAM fixed cranks all pissed off and ski runs at a bump of the button.
I am guessing the posts were corroded just enough that it would still see 12.5 volts at the solenoid with no load. But under a large current draw it would only let 8.5 volts get to the starter. The other 2 volts was transformed into heat making the posts hot.
Thanks for the help folks it was in a way the battery cables after all and it was a free fix.