Snapped B Pipe Set Screws

So, I picked up my sj last season and told myself id wait till off season to take out all the adjustment screws and put them back in with some never seize just in case any broke i wouldnt have the ski down during summer. Well i just got to taking them off. All came out smoothly except for one that wouldnt budge. I heated the poop out of it to try and expand the aluminum around it, but ended up snapping it. Wondering what any of you guys have done to either extract it (which i dont think is happening) or drill and tap. But with drilling and tapping, where can i get the same bolts with the correct nipple on the end? and when i drill down, will that nipple be able to come out of the hole? Thanks guys!
 
The nipple will roll around in the water jacket and you can shake it around to come out one of the water inlet fittings. Drilling is not easy, the screws are hard. I used a carbide end mill and did get it bored through then chased the threads. Good luck.
 
Location
Guam
You can get them out. Have someone (or yourself) weld a nut on the broken shaft, and turn it right out. I have done over 4 pipes with screws broken or stuck, and only had to oversize one because I broke out the drill first.
 
Location
Guam
If the screw is broken below the surface of the boss, a TIG is best. You can weld to the stainless screw without harming the aluminum.
 
Which screw is it? I've also drilled them out, welded in both inner and outer holes, then drilled and tapped for the stock size screw, which I can also make with a larger allen head...
 
Thanks for all the options guys. There isnt enough sticking out to weld a nut on. Ended up drilling a hole in the wrong spot, so i am going to weld that and fill it in. What is the deal with the oversized screws? I cant seem to drill directly through bolt just right so that its perfectly in line with the small hole on the inside. How exactly does the b pipe work? There is a water jacket where the water flows in and the adj screws adjust how much water gets shot into the pipe at those points?
 
Location
Guam
When you don't have enough material sticking out you build it up until there is, then weld a nut on. Now that you drilled it crooked, Its best to do what Matt said and bring it to a machinist. It will be difficult for you to line up the screw with the hole.
 
When you don't have enough material sticking out you build it up until there is, then weld a nut on. Now that you drilled it crooked, Its best to do what Matt said and bring it to a machinist. It will be difficult for you to line up the screw with the hole.
One on top where it bolts to manifold.
 
Location
Guam
For anyone who has this same issue. It will be advantageous to try this Before breaking out the drill.

As you can see in photo 1, we have a salt water headpipe with the screw stuck in the closed position, and almost flush with the boss.

1st I cleaned it well. 2nd, I Heat up the boss with a torch to about 400*. 3rd, I welded a regular non-stainless nut onto the nub with a crappy 110 flux core welder. It is important to weld to the screw in the middle first, and not the surrounding nut. This makes the best weld to the nut, and superheats the metal breaking the galvanic corrosion bond.

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BruceSki

Formerly Motoman25
Location
Long Island
Best way to do it right there. A few heat cycles with the torch and some kroil or other penetrating lube helps as well.

Just be careful when welding after that as it's very flammable stuff.
 
Location
Guam
Best way to do it right there. A few heat cycles with the torch and some kroil or other penetrating lube helps as well.

Just be careful when welding after that as it's very flammable stuff.

This one was so tight that the heat cycles never let the penetrating oil into the threads. One of the screws had to be welded twice when the SS screw broke off flush with the pipe the first time.
 
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