Solved a few issues to find another new, please give advice

[Marker Motorsports]

Ok so I have been out for a week now and I am getting frustrated. With the help of Ross and Brett, and my buddy Chris, we fixed my electrical problem which ended up just being badly corroded wires from my start stop switch. All new, ski fired right up after all new wiring. Took it down for some testing, and found a new problem. P.S. the ski ran perfect last time out until the wiring problem.

So it starts great, idles fine. But it just wont go faster than 10 mph. I tried tuning the carb and adjusting the screw, but it really shouldn't need adjusting after working perfectly last time i rode it. It is a brand new carb, borrowed from Ross as I rebuild my other one. I guess my only thoughts are the ignition wire with the plug caps on them are corroded as well. Should I pull my caps off and trim a little wire back and recap it?

2 sets of brand new plugs. Can't think of anything else.

Please Help. Hating not riding.
thanks

curtis

 

[CARBONX2]

Heat sensor shorting out?

 

[Tyler Zane]

my sj had a similar problem, trimming the plug wires fixed it. i only had to cut like a 8th of an inch off.

 

[227]

With what you discribed it could be several things, but basicly if your motor idles and revs up like it should then your problem is most likely in the pump area like a damaged wear ring or impellor. If your motor idles but won't rev properly it could be either an electrical problem (bad stator coil) or carb problem. Carbs don't usually act up as quickly (you said it rode fine last time you rode it) I would be inspecting the electrical system a little closer, especially since you already said it had corroded wires. If some of the wires are corroded then most likely ALL of the wires have problems

 

[Marker Motorsports]

Thanks John. I really have a big feeling it isn't the carb. Ross loaned me a brand new one that rode perfect last time. I am starting to think I need a new coil. But without buying one first, how can I test if thats bad or not. My motor does start right up, revs up good out of the water. I will check the pump area and impeller on my next day off. Bummed I missed the last swell with you guys. I really thought i had the new ski dialed after my last ride. Hopefully soon.

 

[Marker Motorsports]

Ok so we trimmed my wired back to get some fresh ends and put my plug caps back on. The good news is my ski starts right up and is idling better than ever. But it just wont rev properly. The rev limiter is grounded correctly and my msd ignition looks to be new and grounded. I put in a new starter relay. My only guess here is the coil? Anyone have any input before i spend another $150?

Ready to get back on the water.

 

[wydopen]

i owned that ski..sold it to the guy that sold it to you...

i wouldnt buy a new oem coil...if u trimmed the wires it should be fine...i had already done that a couple months ago when he was having trouble with it...

borrow a stock cdi and try that...you cant tell if a cdi is good by looking at it...

the impeller should be fine...at least not messed up enough that u cant go over 10mph..

did u check the reeds???

 

[Marker Motorsports]

Oh ok cool. Yeah I trimmed the wires and on the trailer it just isn't reving right. The impeller isn't perfect but looks good enough and it was fine the last time I rode the ski. I have just been reading lots about bad coils. But didn't think cdi's go out that fast. It boggs down and feels like the carb, but I am really sure it isn't the carb. I will figure out a way to try another cdi. It went from riding great, to a few problems overnight. Didn't think problems happened that fast, but I was wrong.

I haven't checked the reeds. How do I do that? I am newb, but learning quick.

 

[jhall752]

to check the reeds pull off the intake manifold, most likely have to take off the carbs to do so.

 

[btmboards]

hey, curtis. so went out and tested it. ran great for a good 20 min + but then once again right as I left the harbor and hit the ruff water it started doing it just as bad as before, although it did seem to recover a hint fast now. look on the bright side though; even though we are now broke, we are almost out of parts to replace before everything is new.

 

[227]

Coils usually work or they don't. If it starts, that means your getting spark, its not your coil. I used to have a kawi 750 that was doing something very similar. It would start and idle and even rev up fine on the trailer. When I launched and went for a ride, about 15-20min in it would start to act up, specifically it would not rev up much higher than idle. It turned out to be one of the coils on the stator. Electrical problems are the hardest to diagnos, especially for novice mechanics. I've seen guys spend months scratching there head over elec problems. Save yourself the trouble, my advice is to remove your ENTIRE electrical system, the Stator, Electrical box and Start/stop switch and send the ENTIRE package to John at Jet Ski Solutions. Have him test ALL the components and reassemble everything for you. His price will be around $400. Sounds pricey but your ski will run perfectly for years. You'll be back in the water in 2 weeks and in the long run it will save you time, headaches and money and will be worth it

 

[shannon cone]

sounds stupid but check your fuel filter. i had same problem. also check your 1 way valve on your tank. had that problem also

Ok so I have been out for a week now and I am getting frustrated. With the help of Ross and Brett, and my buddy Chris, we fixed my electrical problem which ended up just being badly corroded wires from my start stop switch. All new, ski fired right up after all new wiring. Took it down for some testing, and found a new problem. P.S. the ski ran perfect last time out until the wiring problem.

So it starts great, idles fine. But it just wont go faster than 10 mph. I tried tuning the carb and adjusting the screw, but it really shouldn't need adjusting after working perfectly last time i rode it. It is a brand new carb, borrowed from Ross as I rebuild my other one. I guess my only thoughts are the ignition wire with the plug caps on them are corroded as well. Should I pull my caps off and trim a little wire back and recap it?

2 sets of brand new plugs. Can't think of anything else.

Please Help. Hating not riding.
thanks

curtis

 

[stanton]

sounds like my ski when i stripped the flywheel key. just something to check

 

[Tkmww]

Mine was running like crap in the surf. It was the salt water hitting my wires that was causing it. I put silicon on them, dialectic grease on the plugs, and zip tied the boots where the wires meet. Runs great now. Just a thought...

 

[swapmeet]

I'm one of those people spending months scratching their heads...


I do know that a coil can work fine when cold but then once its warm it will not perform as well. At least in a car. So its possible.
The inital problem sounds like the pink overtemp plug is seeing ground. But if its running than that could be wrong.
I'm contemplating doing the JSS fix for all my stuff. Not riding does suck.

 

[Matt_E]

Coils usually work or they don't.

That hasn't been my experience. They can and do go bad slowly, causing low speed misses at first that get worse and worse. In my case, it was the insulation on the plug wires slowly going bad.

 

[Marker Motorsports]

OK after kind of giving up the ski for a little bit, im back to work. Same spot though, ski starts right up, idle great, wont rev properly. Won't go over about 10mph. Brand new spark plugs, trimmed the ignition wires back, rezip tied the plugs back on, all new start/stop switch wiring on the ski. Fuel is fresh, one way valve is good. One thing I did notice is new plugs are blackish after a 2min run. Service manual says electrical problem. I can't seem to get a hold of a cdi to test with. My guess is its the cdi or stator. I have really been leaning towards sending entire electrical unit to JSS for refurb and be done with it. Not sure they can refurb the cdi. Any other suggestions before I send out and drop 400-500$?
Also will a round nose 650 cdi work for testing purposes? Ive got a 701, b pipe, msd.

 

[Powerhouse]

650 CDI will work for testing, the only difference is the lower rev limiter on the 650 cdi