Custom/Hybrid Spark and fuel=No start

[N3vrSat1sfied]

I am usually pretty good with troubleshooting but this one has me stumped.

Rode yesterday for about 30 seconds, ski just gave out and wouldn't restart.

-Fuel doesn't seem to be moving that well through the filter, but even using the primer and hand choking the carbs the ski wouldn't even try to pop (with obvious wetness in the carb body. Carbs were rebuilt in september. Each with its own pickup and neither seem to be pulling hard.
-Checked spark, Yes on spark both cylinders
- I checked my flywheel to make sure I didn't shear another key off, that was fine as well as the stator hasn't moved or anything like that.
- so I put it back together with new plugs and even shot a little bit of fuel in the cylinders and still no start.
-also tried to swap out s/s switch and no change
-also checked the pickups in the tank they are fine, rest of fuel line is all new this season, so I wouldn't expect any cracks.

I am planning on doing a compression test first thing when I get off work, do a resistance check on the ground cable and check it, maybe tighten up the gap on the plugs to see if the coil is weak. Ill double check pulse lines and fuel lines.


Any suggestions........

heres my specs
Engine & Electronics:
-JetManiac 781 black w/Orange Anodized ADA head 38cc domes
-MSD enhancer
-JSS stator & coil
-#zero Flywheel
-MagnaPower EXT9
-Bpipe Mod
-Ski innovations waterbox
-oem 44's (Main Jet = 115 H, Pilot Jet = 120 L)

 

[4SeasonsPower]

Fuel and spark, but no start = $$$$. Sounds like you lost compression. I wouldn't waste anymore time checking other issues until you do a compression check.

 

[N3vrSat1sfied]

Fuel and spark, but no start = $$$$. Sounds like you lost compression.

thats what worries me, which is why I will start there. The engine was brand new this season, maybe 20 gallons.

 

[ChrisFiore15]

^What he said.. check compression.. sounds like you may not have much.

 

[N3vrSat1sfied]

^What he said.. check compression.. sounds like you may not have much.

thats the first thing on the list this evening, I would of done that last night but the battery got pretty weak.

 

[SuperN8]

I too think to check compression.
SInce I have never had any issues like this I am little curious if low compression would cause a instant shutdown with no noise and then not be able to re-start. how often is it that you melt both pistons at the same exact time becuase even if one hole lost its compression wouldn't the other still try fire.

 

[tor*p*do]

low compression motors usually run OK under no load (out of water)
and then dont run in the water in my experience
maybe the MSD croaked? throw in a oem cdi and try it?

 

[N3vrSat1sfied]

Ok I couldnt take it anymore, and went home for a sec (I only work 1 mile away).

Compression is 187F/185R

i checked the resistance on my ground cable and it is jumping from 6 to 30+ ohms. So I am guessing that is my issue.

 

[JetManiac]

Ok I couldnt take it anymore, and went home for a sec (I only work 1 mile away).

Compression is 187F/185R

i checked the resistance on my ground cable and it is jumping from 6 to 30+ ohms. So I am guessing that is my issue.

I think ground cable should be about 1ohm, but if it was cranking over ok and you have spark not sure that is your issue.

 

[air blair]

Spark, gas, compression. Explosion....it should at lease jump. Do you have steady spark or just spark when you first hit the green button and then nothing and again when you let off start button spark again? If not that id say timing. Sheered key

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[N3vrSat1sfied]

Spark, gas, compression. Explosion....it should at lease jump. Do you have steady spark or just spark when you first hit the green button and then nothing and again when you let off start button spark again? If not that id say timing. Sheered key

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

steady spark, not the start stop switch, even tried swapping it out just in case. Already checked the flywheel key and it was fine.

 

[N3vrSat1sfied]

I think ground cable should be about 1ohm, but if it was cranking over ok and you have spark not sure that is your issue.

Got your text, but our time zones are a little off and I was already in bed. I certainly have a bad ground cable. Like you said though it is cranking over fine and there is spark, but maybe the bad ground is causing a little intermittent spark that I cant see with my eye, or causing a issue with the CDI/timing itself. Not sure, Ill replace the ground and go from there.

 

[JT_Freeride]

I know you said you swapped start stop switches. But did you try just unplugging the black and white connections.

 

[N3vrSat1sfied]

I know you said you swapped start stop switches. But did you try just unplugging the black and white connections.

ya unfortunately I tried that too. I know my backup switch is good, my cousin just used it on his WB1 a couple weekends ago. Plus the switch on my ski is Brand new OEM this season.

 

[keith t]

Use a jump lead cable from battery to motor, that should confirm or discount the dodgy earth cable

 

[Mick96]

reeds will do that but it normally happens when ppl sink there ski and hit the start button with the engine full of water and blow out pedals on both sides

 

[N3vrSat1sfied]

Use a jump lead cable from battery to motor, that should confirm or discount the dodgy earth cable

Ill try that out tonight or tomorrow.

 

[N3vrSat1sfied]

Well tried a different ground didnt help, I guess I can look at the reeds or start swapping components out in the ebox.

 

[Quinc]

Check the spark plugs again and watch the spark for 10-15 seconds. I had an issue with my MSD enhancer where it would spark great for about 5 seconds and then not spark at all.

 

[623pwr]

I'd try pulling the carbs, clean/ check them, check the pulse line, try new fuel. Make sure you check the battery cables at the ebox too. I had that happen this year, I tried everything turned out to be a weak connection (semi broken cable). I hope you can find the gremlin, sorry to hear about the set back.