Super Jet Spark plug top came off

[FX1 696]

I’m running pretty standard NGK BR8ES plugs. Last time I went to check them, the screw-on part wasn’t there. It came off on both plugs and was stuck up inside the caps. I was able to pull one out with a tweezers, but can’t get the other one out.

I’ve read a few other threads on this and some people recommend using the non-screw type. When I replace the plug caps, should I start using these solid plugs, or did I just have bad luck with these two? They’re not in stock at my local advance auto parts, but I can order them online if they’re recommended. Why isn’t everybody running the solid type, are there any disadvantages?

Thanks in advance

 

[Magnum Mike]

Yes, run the solid tops:

NGK 3961 BR8ES SOLID Standard Plug

 

[SXIPro]

You can find 8 or 10 packs cheap on eBay

 

[FX1 696]

If I manage to get the top out of the second plug cap, should I still use these caps or is there possibly any damage inside there? I've never cut back plug wires before, but I'm sure it's pretty straight forward.

 

[yamanube]

Toss them, you can try screwing the plug into the top and pulling it out of the cap. Go with solid top plugs.

 

[jo5hi3]

To remove cap, just screw plug back into cap and then remove. Should be a pretty simple process.

 

[FX1 696]

I suppose that's easiest @yamanube and @jo5hi3, I just figured the removeable portion's threads were gone, because they came off when I pulled the wire off. I'll give this a try when I get home.

 

[HDom]

Had this happen and used a long self tapping screw that went into the plugcap then used grips to pull it out with the cap

 

[Sferone]

Before I learned of the solid 3961, I use to hit the top threads with some red 271 Loctite. I had a few come loose.


Steve

 

[FX1 696]

Thanks guys, I ordered some solid plugs from Amazon. Out of curiosity, what is the purpose of the screw on type? The only thing I can think of is being easier to manufacture somehow?

 

[yamanube]

There are some applications that do not use the screwed on portion, I think it is a vintage thing (60s-70s?)

 

[SXIPro]

There are some applications that do not use the screwed on portion, I think it is a vintage thing (60s-70s?)

I've got a 1996 Yamaha outboard that doesn't use the screw on doohickey.

 

[Pro-pulsion]

If you are in a pinch and that style of plug is all you can get, use a dot of red loctite on those caps and use pliers to tighten them on. You will need to smooth out the bite mark into the cap from the pliers but it works. I've never had a cap come off doing it that way. On the plus side, having those caps on hand is not a bad thing. If you have ever broken off a throttle cable end, for me it was at the carb side, a little filing down of the O.D. on one of those caps, a little hole to slip the broken cable through or bike cable if you need to...as I did...and a screw into the threaded side (facing out) to bind the cable in place...you have a very durable cable end replacement to get you by. I did that on my old Kawi 650sx and I don't believe I recall changing it out with a new one before I sold it...2 years later

 

[Pro-pulsion]

See...
I always keep one in the tool kit...of course the screw I used was much shorter...in fact it was a computer screw for securing main boards inside towers but it worked perfectly.

 

[Harbor]

I break the porcelain off around the spark plug to expose just the threaded core and use that to get the aluminum cap out of the plug caps

 

[FX1 696]

Thanks for all the replies on this - Like I expected, the caps must've been loose for some time because all the threads were stripped out, and I wasn't able to pull out the caps by simply screwing in the plug. It's confusing that the ski still ran fine? Anyway, I was able to get both caps out with tweezers, threw in the solid plugs I got in the mail from Amazon, and she purrs like a kitten. Interesting thread, I never knew this type of plug existed until I experienced this.

 

[TheBuzzard]

when the aluminum is all stripped out, I use a dry wall screw to get it out and when I use that plug type, I always tighten the cap up with pliers so it don't come loose

 

[mbrick]

Thanks for all the replies on this - Like I expected, the caps must've been loose for some time because all the threads were stripped out, and I wasn't able to pull out the caps by simply screwing in the plug. It's confusing that the ski still ran fine? Anyway, I was able to get both caps out with tweezers, threw in the solid plugs I got in the mail from Amazon, and she purrs like a kitten. Interesting thread, I never knew this type of plug existed until I experienced this.

Good find, when they strip out like that they start to cause intermittent running issues... and can take a while to find. All of that aluminum dust doesn't help for a good connection. The nut is removed for odd cases like some old outboards, lawnmowers, etc. It's a reliability risk for everything else.

Magnum Mike is on it, 3961 solid top is the way to go for the BR8ES.
For stock heads, there is a solid top BR8HS. I run B7HS in my stock ski since that's what it came with so I use red loctite and tighten the nut with pliers and sand down any plier bite marks.

Rockauto is my go-to for plugs. $14.47 for a 4 pack on Amazon is OK if you need 'em quick.
The BR8HS 6715 are $2.12/ea. https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ngk,6715,spark+plug,7212
The BR8ES 3961 are $1.42/ea (what a steal) and $3 to ship 4 of them. https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ngk,3961,spark+plug,7212
The non-solid top B7HS 5110 are also $1.42/ea.
The non-solid top BR7HS 4122 are $1.29/ea.
You can usually find a current promo code for extra savings if you google it.

 

[Big Kahuna]

you can take a pair of pliers and crimp the screw on cap, this will keep them tight.