Speedwerx DryPipe - Any Good?

[Matt_E]

Yes - compression is only a piece of the puzzle.
Add to that squish clearance, shape, piston crown shape, cooling, revs, and ignition.

 

[ArtMaybee]

running your domes designed for domed pistons would most likely give you terrible squish. There would be more cc's in the dome so yes, you would get lower compression... The problem is, those domes aren't designed to work with that piston top and the engine would most likely run like crap. Your best bet if you have a hard time finding domes for that head would be to get the flat top domes cut for a little more volume if compression is too high. Just make sure to use a reputable builder for the work.

A GOOD bet would be to call a couple of the builders for advice. The good ones are happy to help and they know their business. Just do the right thing and spend a little money with them if you can.

I can tell you that Art at Jetworks is unbelievable when it comes to the knowledge he has and is happy to share. Jetskimechanic.com has tons of knowledge as well.. Of course magoo is a staple around here and he can assist with your needs. I've also heard good things about Chucky at Team Scream. I'm sure any of those guys can get your the proper domes inexpensively or cut a set of yours if needed.

I'm not saying not to take advice from the guys on the message boards because there is a lot of knowledge here. I'm just saying get as much info as you can. Most of us can't afford to redo these motors if we make mistakes.

 

[Matt_E]

100% agreed. It's always best to consult with the pros.

 

[FL-cracker]

Cool, thanks art! I was starting to think along those lines. I was originaly thinking of just runnig a wave raider gasket, but like you say with all the veriables I am better off talking to the pros. And even with the gasket im not sure if that will lower my compression to safe. Damn looks like I my be running some race gas. That sucks with how much gas this thing is gona drink. But I plan on racing the St. Pete race at the end of July, probably like a week after I get the thing built, so maybe I will just run it with race gas, then after the race send out the domes for a de-tune.

There are #'s on the domes that they will no what cc's they are right, the heads not infront of me right now, but i will look when I get off work.

Thanks again, great post!

 

[MADMAT]

One more note on this setup. I had to make a mullet coupler. It's longer on the bottom radius of da pipe. It did not stop the rear hose clamp from sliding back on the bottom, but once it slid back it was still tight and it had plenty of coupler to tighten onto.

MULLET COUPLER ALL THE WAY MAN:headbang:

 

[MADMAT]

Lol..........

something like this except the coupler goes completely under the clamps

 

[Big Kahuna]

I found it better to cut the coupler a little short, Reason, with a std coupler, if the manifold and pipe did not mate all the way becuase the coupler was long it would cause it to not seal correctly, burning the Oring and coupler, with it cut short, you can get a better chance of the coupler sealing correctly.

 

[93SJ760]

I'll stick with my B-Pipe for now. I've burnt almost a full tank in trying to tune this machine now and there's no indication of deto but I am a little hesitant to try the speedwerx after all the talk of deto. I definetely can't afford to rebuild this motor at this point in time.

Thanks for all the feedback so far. Lots of info.

 

[Matt_E]

You cannot go wrong with a B-Pipe, simple reliable power.