Super Jet Speedwerx Pipe Question

[Pro-pulsion]

Blueprinted pump, stock nozzle diameter, R&D Afterburner pump stuffer, Hooker 9/15 with two 1mm shims, R&D top loader intake grate. One quick question if I may, how does the Jetworks flow control valve actually work? Is it just a calibrated internal restriction or does it open and close like a thermostat? I ask because a thought popped in mind just a few minutes ago and for the life of me I do not know why I didn't think of it before, but the water inlet on the manifold right at the coupler seemed to me to be quite huge. On my cheater pipe I run a 1/8" hole to cool that coupler, this one was full bore of the 5/16 fitting. I didn't restrict it because I thought it was necessary to keep the coupler from melt down. Could this be the culprit for the virtually non-existent bottom end? Too much water entering at the coupler inlet?

 

[txsuperjetfreak96]

Fcv pro has a ball inside and a spring u can adjust outter shell to put more tension on spring or put less on it


Jeremy

 

[just joe]

When I run my type 4, I have a 190 main jet screwed into in the stinger inlet and a flow control valve. If you don't have either then I would agree too much water could be affecting your bottom end.

 

[xXx Octane xXx]

The Jetworks flow control valve opens when the water pressure in your cooling system exceeds the spring force holding the poppet closed in the valve. The water pressure in your cooling system varies by engine RPM, as the engine RPM increases, the water pressure (generated by the jet pump) also increases. Jetworks also makes inline restrictors that look similar to the flow control valves, but have a fixed orifice inside them rather than a spring and poppet.

Does the fitting in your manifold open into the exhaust stream or does it just go into the water jacket in the manifold?
Dry pipe couplers are cooled by the water in the water jackets of the manifold and expansion chamber. The only place water should be entering the exhaust stream is at the outlet (stinger) of the pipe to cool the exhaust gas before it enters the water box and exhaust hoses. The only acception to this would be if you have an electronically controlled water injection system installed (which really isn't necessary on the speedwerx pipe).

Do you have any pictures of your exhaust system (prior to installation)?

Eric.

 

[Pro-pulsion]

Thanks for the reply Eric, the fitting does go directly into the exhaust stream at the full volume of the fitting. It also has two more fittings for the pump cooling, and another 2 fittings that are pipe plugged which I believe are meant to be used with cooling injection. As it is right now, I have a T on my inbound water supply for the dual fittings, one going from the head down onto the fitting entering the exhaust stream, one going from the high fitting on the pipe down to the straight pipe going out to the waterbox and then the one at about mid height on the pipe spraying overboard. I only have the one from the posting when I bought it but still a good pic...

I am thinking the same as you Joe, too much water getting into the system clogging it up...I hope. I figured I would be a good little freeride boy and listen to all y'all and hang onto it for now and see if I can dial it in. Otherwise, nah...sell sell sell lol.

 

[xXx Octane xXx]

Do you currently have dual cooling? If not, are you willing to give up your stock siphon bilge system to be used as a second cooling line?
Here is one of the correct ways to run the cooling lines with that pipe:
Cooling line coming from the pump #1 - Connect to the fitting on the bottom of the manifold (the fitting that feeds into the water jacket of the manifold).
Cooling line coming from the pump #2 - Connect to the fitting right after the coupler flange on the expansion chamber.
Cooling line coming straight out of the top (front) of the expansion chamber - Connect to the fitting on the stinger (outlet) of the expansion chamber (I would switch to a straight or 45 degree brass fitting instead of the 90 degree fitting you have now. (Use the restrictor or Jetworks flow control valve in this line).
Cooling line coming out of the expansion chamber next to the stinger (end of the pipe) - Connect to a line running overboard through a bypass fitting.
Cooling line coming off of your cylinder head - Connect to a line running overboard through a bypass fitting.
All other fittings that are still open - Plug.

If you do not have dual cooling and you do not wish to convert to dual cooling, you can run the cooling line coming off of your cylinder head down to the fitting next to the coupler flange on the expansion chamber and leave everything else mentioned above the same.
If you're not running dual cooling the pipe is going to run quite a bit hotter, and I would strongly suggest lowering your compression with some 37cc domes and pay closer attention to your bypass water temperatures.

What are you running for jetting in the carbs right now?

Eric.

 

[Pro-pulsion]

I am running single cooling and really have no intentions to go to dual anytime soon if ever. The carbs are stock, everything about them. I really have no idea what the jetting is on them as I have not had them apart since I bought the ski last year.

 

[Scraggly]

You hit the pipe and didn't Jet appropriately. You could have a lean fuel issue causing excess heat throughout the engine. Also just for reference lower octane burns hotter then high octane as far as pump gas go. Some 87 high compression under fueled with a dry pipe is asking for a failure IMO

 

[lanmine657]

I am running the same pipe set up on my 61x but with a single 46, dual cooling was a must, had my flywheel lightend, opend nozzle to 85mm , 9/15, 190psi comp, turnd my static timing up 3mm and my boat hits hard with great top end. Good fuel is also a must have, I have had good luck with mixn 3galnon-ethanol 91 to one vp race fuel, also I have found that pipe seems to love high compression and richer than normal jetting setup

 

[Pro-pulsion]

I only run 91 octane. I am quite familiar with fuel properties but had no idea I would need to do so much just get back the bottom end I had. If I would have known all this before I would never have bought it lol. My intentions were only to build up to stronger bottom end then what I had, not unload every pay I get into making a pipe happy just to get back what I lost lol. I dove into it last night for several hours and at this point I have pretty well signed off with it so I went back to what I had. Anyone need a pipe?

 

[xXx Octane xXx]

What pipe were you running before?

If you keep the speedwerx pipe, which I think you will be much happier with in the long run, I would give John at speedwerx a call to get the correct jetting specs for your application.

You should end up somewhere around 140 for your Main jets and between 75 and 80 for your pilot jets. I don't remember the N&S size or spring they recommend.

Eric.

 

[Pro-pulsion]

Believe it or not, I was running a cheater pipe that I modified and the holeshot with it is strong and right on the money. This new pipe is literally falling on its face on the wholeshot. As mentioned previously though, its upper mid and top end is crazy, but I have no interest in top end.

 

[Half flip95]

"literally falling on its face." there is nothing literal about it. the actual problem here is that you are not tuned right. the literal problem here is that you are not reading the words on the screen.

 

[just joe]

Or maybe pulling the pipe may be the best answer. It's a level of complexity you have to be willing to take on through cooling changes, jetting, alignment, pump, riding style, etc.

Life's simpler with a B pipe, and riding skill can make up for a whole lotta pipe.

 

[lanmine657]

I only run 91 octane. I am quite familiar with fuel properties but had no idea I would need to do so much just get back the bottom end I had. If I would have known all this before I would never have bought it lol. My intentions were only to build up to stronger bottom end then what I had, not unload every pay I get into making a pipe happy just to get back what I lost lol. I dove into it last night for several hours and at this point I have pretty well signed off with it so I went back to what I had. Anyone need a pipe?

i did most of the extra mods mainly cause I'm at 5000ft of elevation, no air, there is probly no need for that stuff being at sea level, dry pipes have a bad rap on this site cause they are bit more maintenance and set-up than a b-pipe but a properly set-up dry pipe, especially a speedwerx, will smoke a b-pipe in any category!!

 

[Pro-pulsion]

Hey pondracer, I understand what is being said and sorry that I decided not to trade my pipe with you on your b-pipe. I understand the attack you just shot me with since you seem like you are speaking out of disappointment. But what I understand from your posting is that you are not giving me a fair hearing, I have sank not some, not most, but all of my available finances on getting this pipe under the impression that it is what everyone says it is. Unfortunately not one post that I could find went into any detail saying to make it perform like what is mentioned here, you need this, that, or the other part. You have to understand that not only am I financially exhausted on my ski fund, but for me to get any parts they all have to come from the U.S. which is a minimum of 3 weeks before it arrives at my door. Do you see what I am getting at here, by the time I get the funds, get the parts in my hands, and get the time to install them the season is over for me. So if you don't mind please, refrain from launching attacks.

 

[Half flip95]

Yes, its frustrating. You say you want a bpipe. I offered to trade you for a bpipe. Then you say you want to keep this pipe. Then I read this thread and realize you don't need a bpipe; You just need to rejet. Then I read multiple people telling you to rejet. I think to myself, man this guy would probably be happy with this pipe if he just rejetted for it. Then I nudge you a little bit by posting on here telling you to rejet and you hit me with some sob story about your finances.

 

[Pro-pulsion]

Wow, I really can't help but feel sorry for you to jump right to bitterness and disrespect. Yes you did offer me your set-up, but I did reply saying allow me to think about it for the night because I wanted to research the fx-1 chamber since I have not had a good run with fx-1 parts so far. I told you I was getting a lot of push from the guys here to keep what I have so I decided to listen to them. Plus, you did realize I hope that the only two mentions of rejetting only came in since almost midnight of last night right? Between then and my full time day job and up to now...when I was I supposed to do the rejetting, re-installing of the pipe and making it to the water and testing it lol. And sob story? You really didn't read the entire post otherwise you would have known in advance that I did not just come up with this, it has been mentioned well into the start of the thread. What you consider to be a "nudge" was more of an insult and could have very easily been more tactfully implemented. Please just stop posting on this and you worry about you, I will deal with this just nicely without you. Again I am sorry your hopes didn't work out with you for the deal, but nothing was agreed upon so there should be no hard feelings over it. Have a good evening, and all is well here.

I am running a Hooker 9/15 php, I spent enough on the pipe that putting together an inventory of impellers to figure out which one is best is just not financially possible. I would much rather go back to what I was running and have fun again than keep this race monster only to go fast. What did you have to do to your pipe Matt to get it strong like a b-pipe?

 

[xXx Octane xXx]

Coupler and Bracket Pictures.

 

[Pro-pulsion]

This is awesome Eric!, thank you :biggthumpup: Here is something to share with everyone too, John from Speedwerx sent this to me earlier Friday afternoon. It is the original installation instructions that came with these pipes.