Custom/Hybrid Splitting the top and bottom deck on a RN superjet
- Thread starter JTI
- Start date
Byeai
"Cheetos-Man"
- Location
- Melbourne FL
It has been done I for get whose done it do a search u will find it
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Byeai
"Cheetos-Man"
- Location
- Melbourne FL
I like it was sportfish258
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Byeai
"Cheetos-Man"
- Location
- Melbourne FL
Think not like damn auto correct
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I have had a look through the forum with no results showing someone split the decks and reuse both top and bottom decks. I have seen the thread that i believe you are talking about, and he uses a new WF top deck.
I want to split the top and bottom, modify what i want to modify, and then glue both decks back together without having to buy a new top or bottom deck.
All the threads i have seen utilize a new top or bottom deck.
I want to split the top and bottom, modify what i want to modify, and then glue both decks back together without having to buy a new top or bottom deck.
All the threads i have seen utilize a new top or bottom deck.
Byeai
"Cheetos-Man"
- Location
- Melbourne FL
Oh I doubt u get it un hurt but it might be possible
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- Location
- Pueblo, CO
I split the one that sportfish258 ended up with. Both pieces were useable. The top deck I sold to another board member and he used it on a SN to RN conversion. So... YES, It can be done. Lots of heat and prybars are your friends. Thin cutting wheel around the bulkhead too. Good luck.
EDIT: heres the thread - http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/7977-RMBC-Freeride-s-roundnose-conversion&highlight=
EDIT: heres the thread - http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/7977-RMBC-Freeride-s-roundnose-conversion&highlight=
Last edited:
If you cut the tray out in a large piece like many people do for a re-foam it makes it much easier. It’s your sacrificial lamb. Green glue is best dealt with ( best, considering time/effort/risk of damage ratios) with heat, a high quality 2inch putty knife that has the blade through the handle and makes an anvil at the end of the handle. Get a 2inch wood chisel as well with the same anvil style, use it as a second stage “wedge”.
Once you have the tray piece out,( there is a lot of glue where the pump tunnel touches the tray); then de-foam at least to expose the glue joints. Start by splitting from the middle of the ski in the engine compartment. It has the most give. Use the putty knife first then as you make progress use the thicker chisel to act as a wedge. Always back up your blows with a buck of some sort, like a heavy body shop dolly. You would put this on the top of the bond rail as you strike up on the putty knife from below, and then when you drive from the inside of the hull out, put the buck on the out side of the bond rail. You certainly can cut as much of the glue out of the bond rail joints from the inside of the hull and from the bottom up, but even with a multi tool it takes a looong time. A multi tool helps with dog ears of the top of the bulk head but a lot of times you can use the putty knife just fine. If you can find and old square hull to practice on that helps and you’ll have an extra for a top deck conversion if you want. That’s where I learned all this nonsense. I wasted a lot of time cutting glue when I later learned how to get it to pop. Much faster and cleaner, nuff said. Remember, if you fail you can always buy an aftermarket hull and be glad you didn’t waste a lot of time re-inventing the wheel:biggrin:
Once you have the tray piece out,( there is a lot of glue where the pump tunnel touches the tray); then de-foam at least to expose the glue joints. Start by splitting from the middle of the ski in the engine compartment. It has the most give. Use the putty knife first then as you make progress use the thicker chisel to act as a wedge. Always back up your blows with a buck of some sort, like a heavy body shop dolly. You would put this on the top of the bond rail as you strike up on the putty knife from below, and then when you drive from the inside of the hull out, put the buck on the out side of the bond rail. You certainly can cut as much of the glue out of the bond rail joints from the inside of the hull and from the bottom up, but even with a multi tool it takes a looong time. A multi tool helps with dog ears of the top of the bulk head but a lot of times you can use the putty knife just fine. If you can find and old square hull to practice on that helps and you’ll have an extra for a top deck conversion if you want. That’s where I learned all this nonsense. I wasted a lot of time cutting glue when I later learned how to get it to pop. Much faster and cleaner, nuff said. Remember, if you fail you can always buy an aftermarket hull and be glad you didn’t waste a lot of time re-inventing the wheel:biggrin:
Haha thank you very much for your reply, it's much appreciated. I have had a few different aftermarket hulls in the past and all had their good points and bad points, so the idea is to put as many of the good points across to this build as possible. And hopefully not have the $6K + price tag of an aftermarket hull at the end of the day.